That kink would definitely be the cause, especially if the wire is hard to get out of the gun. Get a new liner with no issues and give it a try again.

Propane needs more oxygen to burn than Acetylene does. Upping the propane is just going to make your issue worse and can lead to the same popping. You want a roughly 4.3 to 1 ratio of oxygen to propane. What is likely happening is since you have too much fuel gas going through, you're having to have...

2% Lanthinated works great on my Square Wave 200. Grind around 40 degree? (not like a pencil point), more blunt than for steel. Then set your AC balance around 70%. I would use 3/32 tungsten rather than 1/8, this fits your 200 amp machine better. I use a #8 clear glass lens (this helps me see bette...

If I had to guess I'd say you're not holding a tight enough arc. Long arcing 7018 will lead to porosity quite quickly. How's your rod angle?

Do you still have the propane up at 15-30psi?

5-10psi is where I would be on the propane. I've never gone higher than 10psi without having issues or needing a really large cutting head. I personally found 7psi propane and 35psi oxygen to be the sweet spot for me with a 1-3 tip for up to 5/16". Also when you go to cut, keep the tip .5"...

Rule of thumb is usually no more stickout than the diameter of the cup. Cup numbers are in 16ths of an inch, so a #7 (7/16") you wouldn't want anything more than 7/16" stickout. There's no real benefit of having long stickout if you don't need it so try and keep it an acceptable distance w...

HF starts may cause some issues with it, but I'm not 100% sure. Unless her head is right by the torch, I don't think it would be much of an issue on starts. I get shocked occasionally when my arms rest on the table and I don't have a CI yet. I've seen guys welding with them without any issues before...

Quite right, Tweake. It is very possible the guy has no one from whom to learn, may not have resources locally, or is simply the type of person who asks rudimentary questions because he has no experience. FFS, if you don't care to respond constructively, then move along and don't engage in the thre...

The blue green gunk is either from cross contamination of different kinds of glycol. Or from old glycol were the inhibitors are broken down. The blue gue is about the concictancy of half dried latex paint? If so you need to flush out every thing Torch and hoses as well with a mixture of hot water a...

Is the filter picking up any particulate?

As far as I am aware, all countries have books .............. :roll: And then consider that the question was asked on this forum, one of the best on-line sources available. As far as I am aware, these forums are here for people to ask questions to learn. Unlike some of the other forums, questions a...

So i don’t even have a tig welder yet, but I sure would love to learn! I was wondering, since there are different grades of alluminium and stainless do you need to have different filler wires as well or can you use the same? Like using the same filler for 6061 and 7075? Thanks! Don't teach yourself...

I just tried to pick some of this stuff up for work but the guys at the welding supply looked at me like I had two heads when I even mentioned the stuff. Anyone by chance know any shops in South Eastern FL that has this stuff? They'd rather get from a store than buy online here.

I believe that that will work for SS. Is it mixed at a 98%arg and 2%oxy ? Dents do affect fluid flow! That’s why the put dents on golf balls. they have virtually no effect on exhaust pipes was my statement. The show Engine Masters from Hot Rod mag did something testing that by smashing headers with...

Unless fluid dynamics has changed since I was in school, a slight gap isn't going to help shield the back side of a weld, especially on tube. Maybe if you have a narrow gap created from another piece of material inside, but I don't see how a slight gap will shield the back side of the weld puddle. ...

Unless fluid dynamics has changed since I was in school, a slight gap isn't going to help shield the back side of a weld, especially on tube. Maybe if you have a narrow gap created from another piece of material inside, but I don't see how a slight gap will shield the back side of the weld puddle.

That definitely looks better!

I've noticed erratic arcs with the masonry/tile diamond wheels. The diamonds on them are usually really coarse and gouge more than grind. If you have a dremel or any other 3/32 or 1/8" collet rotary tool you can pick up some 1" diamond cutting wheels from a jewelry supply for usually $3-4 ...

Could be insufficient voltage or it could also be other damaged components, or some other stuff. No real easy way to tell if the components are or are not rated for 220v. For $75, not really worth digging into it that much unless you want to do it for fun and learning. Easiest thing to check was jus...

He deliberately covered the 220v stamp with a 110v sticker... Anyway. I'm guessing all I have to do is switch the power cord? Possibly. It's already dickered so wont hurt anything if it goes pop if it's got components inside not rated for the 220v. Just make sure it's in a safe area before plugging...

Awesome!

There is a lot of crud on the board in that second picture, and the thru-hole IC is crooked as hell. Can't see any damaged components because of the angles of the pictures though. Second to last picture, the burnt looking solder blob on the bottom right. Is that attached to a component?

Give it a pretty decent pre-heat before welding, somewhere around 800*F. May be a good idea to raise it up to hardening temperature after too and letting it cool slowly. It will likely fail again if it doesn't go through the heat treating process again, but S7 is air quenching so that is relatively ...

Never seen a crack like that before, but I have seen A-2 fail on presses due to heat treating errors. It's always just chipped on me.