Awesome guys. Joke video though, but they did it very well. Had me fooled months ago, lol. Their car table thingy is amazing.

How long are you applying heat when doing the small spot?

Instant hot dog cooker.
Unless it's got sentimental value, no point in keeping it.

Ant428 wrote: I see the discoloration immediately. Even as the post flow is running.

Bad or no gas coverage. What tungsten stickout are you eunning? Gas lense good? New gas bottle or one you've had no issues with before?

That makes more sense. It's probably both those part numbers then.

Check out mouser or digikey if you want to make some new ones as spares. The plugs/sockets are only $5 or so and something like 10 cents for the pins.

Both ends of the adapter cable are male plugs? I've only seen them be male to female adapters. 5 to 14 pin plug adapters. Miller #13003 or #041947.

Try touching/scratching the tungsten on the piece you're welding and see if it helps. I've had to do that once or twice with my Everlast and that's fixed it.

Longevitiy, cleaner cuts, and a lower chance of random exploding. I'be only had cheap discs explode on me amd that alone is enough to make it worth buying better fiber reinforced discs.

You could, but it'll be way easier to just do it with a torch.

No need to remove the tungsten or unhook anything and do crazy stuff. Just hold the torch away from anything and tap the button or foot pedal and you're golden. When I do it I typically just have my torch in the torch holder and have never had any issues. I do the same thing on the MIG at work.

If Algebra isn't your sort of thing and you like laying stuff out, http://navybmr.com/study%20material/142 ... 1A_ch2.pdf

Starts on page 16.

It's super easy to jot down a cheat sheet afterwards for what ever it is you're fitting up afterwards that you can reference later.

Poland308 wrote:That’s why the 17 flex is my standard. You can weld foil or sch 120 pipe.

And bend it all sorts of ways so you can be as comfortable as possible. Absolutely amazing torch.

Same torch will work. No need for anything special. I've been practicing some .024 stainless lately. All I'm using is a #17 flex head and 3/32" tungsten and it goes just fine.

Finally able to get to some gate jobs I started last week. 4 total double drives for the local school district and a church. 1.625 SCH40, painted and galvanized. 3 were already being covered so didn't snap any pics. Fun stuff...
So glad I made the jump back into welding full time.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/brass ... -ga/132201

Sucks that it's only in 20G, but I've used it before and it works.

You could always just silver solder it, clean the flux off, and heat up the solder joint a bit and rub it down with a brass brush or wire wheel to color it.

Junior Welder wrote:

tungstendipper wrote:Try Jody's store!!! https://weldmongerstore.com

I have looked at Jodys store and would like to support him but being that im only 16, I really need to look where I can get stuff cheap.

www.arc-zone.com is in California and they're fairly cheap, plus they also sell Jody's TIG Finger.

I was checking 180 T/HD models. That chart is a bit different than what I've been seeing. Either way, checked the machines at work here too and for .035 wire with .125 aluminum, they're all suggesting 20-22v.

Odds there electric shutoff . The price would more than the cost of gas. Give few more times of leaving gas on you will turn off the gas to save money. When had a shop the last thing was check the tanks are off. Yes some time it was on Dave Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk Definitely mo...

Isn't A more like 10V, not 22V? If you divide by 2 it is. Only the lincoln C (any model) drops below 19v I guess I've been looking at the wrong machines then. You have the 180HD? I checked the chart on one of them at the store earlier today. 1/8" aluminum should be on setting E, not A, for the...

Isn't A more like 10V, not 22V?

I'm finding out that when I get things warmed up I better be trucking and stuffing. I use 4043 and finding it to be grainy after cooling unless I am really moving. Sometimes I get moving so fast that I fall right off my perch. by the time I get back up, things have cooled off a bit and I'm good to ...

12AWG Copper or 10AWG Aluminum. Can handle 25A at up to 80' so it'd be more than good.

Does your tank have enough pressure to feed the torch? Is the regulator dropping a ton once the gas starts flowing? How are the o-rings on the cutting head?

Chill blocks and clamps, as well as welding in small stitches. The chilling and clamping may be tricky on a piece like that without making some custom blocks.

Though I notices your torch setup in the background. You're not welding like that are you? The pieces are all backwards.

I'm pretty sure the plastic ones are just some form of Nylon. PEEK would probably be better but it can be pricey for a plastic. PTFE should also work. I like machining plastic so I'd go with some black PEEK. Brass would be an ok alternative. I've had good luck making gas nozzles out of 360 brass. If...