Tips on keeping weld straight?

Billy B · Thu Mar 03, 2016 6:19 pm

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Hi guys. This is my first attempt at tig welding and as you can see I'm not running straight. Any tips would be great.

Rick_H · Fri Mar 04, 2016 12:55 am

Practice, Practice, Practice....

Start at a low amp setting so you can keep up with the puddle, slowly increase amps and dab speed, repeat

If your just starting out Id recommend NOT weaving or walking the cup, learn to read the puddle then dab filler.

motox · Fri Mar 04, 2016 6:13 am

as i think steve had recommended in a pervious post,
use your grinder and cut straight groves in the material
that you can follow as you practice.
craig

big gear head · Fri Mar 04, 2016 9:10 am

Is there a reason why you are trying to run weave beads? Just run regular beads unless you need a weave. Cutting straight lines with a grinder sounds like a great idea.

Billy B · Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:38 pm

Hey thanks for all of the great information! I will definitely be putting all of it to use. That was my first attempt...obvious I imagine!
So I need to learn how to freehand rather than trying to learn how to walk the cup right now?

Rick_H · Fri Mar 04, 2016 2:03 pm

Billy B wrote:Hey thanks for all of the great information! I will definitely be putting all of it to use. That was my first attempt...obvious I imagine!
So I need to learn how to freehand rather than trying to learn how to walk the cup right now?

Yeah...typically WTC is done on pipe. For a beginner you need to learn to read the puddle and dab filler first...then maybe add some laywire technique down the road.

Braehill · Fri Mar 04, 2016 2:09 pm

Billy,
Both are techniques that are good to know, don't stop practicing walking the cup, just start practicing freehand. There are many places and situations where you'll need to know how to freehand. Walking the cup works great where you have room to move, but isn't much use to you in tight places.

To your original question of keeping a straight line, I have been dealing with worsening eyesight for awhile now and find it harder to keep straight and make an even cap. What I started doing is scribe a line with a carbide tipped scribe to follow. It's a lot easier and less mess than grinding, less dust is always better in my mind.

Seat time is going to be the most beneficial to you when it comes to being consistent. It's a skill that requires repetition to master. You're off to a good start though, just add seat time, you'll get it.

Len

big gear head · Fri Mar 04, 2016 2:45 pm

Walking the cup has it's place, but most of the welding you will be doing is going to be free hand. I've been a TIG welder for about 30 years and I've never had to walk the cup. I've done it a few times just to see if I could, but unless your job calls for that type of weld you probably won't need it. Learn how to run a normal bead first and then learn walking the cup.

Louie1961 · Fri Mar 04, 2016 4:25 pm

First off, make sure you can see clearly. If you have a cheap AD hood, you might want to consider ditching it. I had massive problems keeping beads straight until I got away from the Harbor Freight and TSC auto darkening hoods. you may also try a fixed shade hood. They have so much more clarity than any AD hood. It may also make sense to have an eye exam, and get a set of reading glasses set to the focal length you most commonly weld at. I never had luck with the cheater lens inserts. But I have a set of single vision (not progressive) "computer" glasses that have just the right amount of magnification for welding (for me).

Sat Mar 05, 2016 2:29 am

Braehill wrote:...
To your original question of keeping a straight line, I have been dealing with worsening eyesight for awhile now and find it harder to keep straight and make an even cap. What I started doing is scribe a line with a carbide tipped scribe to follow. It's a lot easier and less mess than grinding, less dust is always better in my mind...

Len

I should point out, in the post where I originally suggested cutting grooves with a grinder, the groove was as important as the line; It gives you a space to fill that more resembles a real-world weld like a fill pass, rather than just running beads on plate. You're quite right, though, that a scribed line will work as well for having a line to follow.

Steve S

bruce991 · Sat Mar 05, 2016 9:14 pm

I have been welding for years with an old std Jackson, reason being environment would ruin a nice one. Now working in my shop I have a Miller Digital Elite helmet. Made my welds a lot better being able to see. I can see at shade 9 with my bifocal glasses like never before, can see where I am going, my puddle and it does make a difference.