Its a Fupa 12 cup from Michael Furick. http://furickcup.com/product/fupa-12-kit/ He also sells the BBW. You don't walk Pyrex (as stated). Even with his "shields" theyre not rated for the heat contact that an alumina is. They do get dirty from any transfer of impurities (DC or AC). They are...

I looked back and noticed you are running a #4 cup? Thats too small and its hurting you quite a bit. With the cup that small, your heat zone is too narrow on inside corners, so essentially you aren't getting any heat into the sides unless you rotate your cup heavily. Bump up to a #7 or #8 with a gas...

Bump your flow up to 25cfh

Mercedes or BMW? These are essentially identical machines from the top 2 US brands of welders. The 215 is a new model, replacing the 200. The 200 has been out for some time and served me well. The 215 is about half the physical size of the 200, and the Lincoln is very close to the 215. I don't think...

Whether you require HF and AC TIG is the only shortcoming on these boxes. But, I ran my machine on a job welding stainless pipe, Scratch start, static amps for just over 3 months on a contract job. This is very common instead of dragging a foot pedal around especially when the welding is "repe...

Also, with a multiprocess machine like these, you don't want a tig kit. You are better off getting a separate tig machine to run AC and DC with a foot pedal. Without the tig kit, you have the power mig 210mp at like $1200 without any rebate or the multimatic 215 from Miller for like $1350-$1400. Bo...

When traveling up with stick, arc length is critical, and, you need to draw a large "triangle" to move the puddle up the hill. Be aware, as you weld uphill, the heat is running up faster in front/above you, so you can lower your amps somewhat from the maximum, but 40 is way too cold. With ...

If you like the Lincoln's features, and the $1700 price range fits your budget, then buy the Miller Multi-Matic 215. Its $11 more expensive than the Lincoln, and has every feature of the Lincoln, but a stronger reputation. You can add their Spool Gun and MIG aluminum too. I have their 200 model, and...

Since they are primarily stick machines I didn't see them. They also said lift arc out of the box so you must have done a little extra work to get a foot pedal. I was mostly talking about primarily tig machines. Virtually every TIG box will also do Stick. And Lift Arc or Scratch Start or HF Start c...

Here you go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLaBFkeHG0A

CJ, I will work on my arc length and see if I can maintain a puddle and make it work. Like I said it has been over 30 years since I have welded. I am learning TIG for the first time. Keep up the advice and I will keep trying. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk the best tip ever given to me was ar...

[quote="WVJay"]I tried turning the amperage down to 80 amps and it was hard to start and maintain a puddle./quote] This screams arc length to me. Even if 80 is too low to immediately make a puddle, getting started and keeping a puddle should not be an issue once the metal is hot. If I am m...

By the way, 100 amps is way too high for 12ga steel. Half that should do the trick nicely. Hopefully you're using a pedal and once you get going, the metal sucks up more heat so you can taper off the pedal even more. A nice, tight arc to the puddle (without touching the tungsten ) works best.

Thanks cj737 but some welds are best forgotten haha I should have actually kept a tally for the number of times I had to regrind my tungsten so as to compare against future projects. I've had 2 fairly sage bits of advice from professionals mentoring me: "Either get good welding with a mirror, ...

Rods should be labeled on their exposed end indicating their spec.

Annular cutters make a much cleaner cut and are generally equipped with a hollow center to allow you to run cutting fluid down their cores. This makes them last much longer, and more durable than a hole saw. As for cut-off discs, they simply can't make the precision cuts needed for certain fit ups. ...

Great looking trolley. The only criticism I would make is, you spent all the time making great looking welds, then you ground them down! You "might" have left them so you can look back and see them, and use them as a progress report. I've done that, and always blamed them on one of my son'...

TimmyTheClub wrote:Definately a good Idea! being as it is 3/16th, what do I do if i cannot get either to break?

Definitely buy a lottery ticket. One or the other will break.

Know you understand why pipe welders are so respected :D Welding around pipe, either horizontal or vertical, is difficult to say the least. It requires constant adjustment of your body position, or the part. What you describe can only be symptomatic of poor control of the heat. 20ga tubing and small...

I completely understand what you're building and why you're undertaking it. I just can't stress enough the importance of it being welded properly. If you can essentially weld the bumper from the "backside" also, then I might even suggest you stick weld it (given your limited power sources)...

is it safer to run a strait bead, and then a second bead over the top of that to the top layer? better penetration, or just wasting material? Stacking beads over beads doesn't improve your penetration, it only adds build up. Penetration comes from your root pass, strength comes from cover passes (o...

Lift Arc is a substitute for HF start or Scratch start. All 3 can still use a pedal. But I'll interpret what you meant is static amps. School boy!

Try lowering your amps to 60 and run it. Then try 55. Then 50. You'll find a sweet spot for your speed and wire sizes.

It should be plenty, provided you don't feed too much wire in too fast. Bear in mind, adding filler cools your puddle. Get the puddle to right heat so as to weld but not blow out, then suddenly here comes a big wad of weld wire. Blam-mo! Puddle gets cold. So you have to "work" that added m...

sambo1985 wrote:I switch between 1/16 filler and 3/32 filler. And using same matching size of tungsten for filler

3/32 wire on 14ga is just too darn thick in my opinion. Maybe for making a fillet weld or bridging a gap, but no way for a stringer bead.

7018 Weave https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkCp1z02tUdGtpcmIyRjNDVGM This looks pretty good to me, though I don't know why you'd weave with a 7018? 7018 2F Cursive e https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkCp1z02tUWkRvYVlFU2hqR1k looks well laid in to me Half Whip and Pause Half Cursive e https:/...