To a certain degree, sure, it's steel.

I tend to use stainless on crack sensitive materials as it tends to flex more before it snaps or cracks.

I've done some plastic welding, it rarely works or I'm just bad at it.

3D printing is much easier.

I've done tack welding by just burning through the sheet?

Opens a hole, but you can close it back up, it's a bit more work but at least it's a realer weld than those crap spot welds I end up fixing on everything I see.

I use airgas exclusively.

because I'm special.

I've used JB weld on some plastic before and it seems to work okay.

No amount of glue beats welding though, now I got a 3d printer at work to do plastic parts.

Taking over the world, one process at a time.

Simclardy wrote: Try messing with gas settings. Start at 10cfh and keep adding 5cfh until it looks good.

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I ended up having to take the neck off my bottle to get more argon, I maxed out the cfh on my flow meter and it still didn't look good. Figured it was the next step.

Wow.

All these years I've been missing out.

Weld it DC huh?

Who would've thought.

Oscar wrote:An acquaintance of mine regularly stick welds aluminum for repairs out in the field where MIG nor TIG are adequate.

Pictures or it didn't happen.

I use these https://www.millerwelds.com/safety/gloves/mig-stick-gloves-m00467 for stick and MIG, though the stick ones I have have a much longer sleeve so I can lean on stuff but they don't show them anymore. for tig I use these https://www.millerwelds.com/safety/gloves/tig-gloves-m00468#!/?product-...

Same here, on my Miller Dynasty 200 DX, if I leave the pedal in, it triggers the arc like it would with TIG, not sure if it regulates, I'm sure it does but I never tried it.

Depends on the aluminum. There's the common ones like 4043 and 5356 which are good for most things, then there's the newer 4943 which is also excellent but it really depends on the aluminum. Also, electrode would be an incorrect way of saying it as it would indicate the arc is jumping from it as tha...

Just wanted to see how others would take on the task...nothing more. This is my fourth aircraft from plans...not new to building solid planes. I have 4 engineers opinions and the local EAA chapter with me. I don't negatively impact others...hmmm. This place used to full of helpful ideas... Guess th...

I don't quite understand what you are asking, are you trying to figure out how to get your torch into a tight spot or the best weld configuration, bracing pattern or what is it?

I'm curious as well but I don't understand the question you have.

TIG is not hard to learn, with the amount of time you put in so far, you probably could've figured it out with TIG, but it does present its own set of challenges in this case as well.

Hope it works out for you either way.

I would do this with 1/8" or 3/32" diameter rod. I've done similar stuff before. The trick is to run the weld outside the washer and whip it into the washer as you go, the washer metal will peel back if you burn right on it, so you just whip the puddle into it as you go, kind of like an aw...

I mean...

They call it stick welding for a reason

Poland308 wrote:

VA-Sawyer wrote:Does anybody see my small external circlip pliars?
I spent a few hours searching for them this evening, with no luck. Maybe it will go better in the daytime.

Between the lathe and the air compressor. Third box down.

No way.

I'm drooling in my chair over those welds. Ah (sigh), I love clean aluminum, welds so much better than the dirty crap. As for the welding, for one, your welds look spectacular, absolutely awesome, looks like the right amount of heat, consistent motion and angle and boy oh boy. Now, for the strength,...

hmm. I was under the illusion it required electricity. But I've been wrong before. i think thats called electro polishing which does the same job. passivating is done with weaker acids than pickling to form an oxide layer. afaik pickling with strong acids to remove tint, scale etc, then pickle with...

So passivating is essentially applying a DC current to an acidic mixture and putting one electrode in the acidic mix and clamp the piece. keep in mind you can still passivate with chemicals (and no power). you don't have to have an electric setup to pasivate stainless. for hobby or small shop guys,...

Okay, I get that. The point is that stainless warps like a mofo, you CAN weld it all, I've done plenty of fully welded, watertight welding and it's just patience. Doing 1" or so stitch welds along something, skipping a 6" or so section, depending on the size, then doing that all along, let...

So passivating is essentially applying a DC current to an acidic mixture and putting one electrode in the acidic mix and clamp the piece. Or do what I did and have a clamp and a copper or metal wand which is soldered onto the other polarity, put a green scotchbrite on it and dip IT in acid and then ...

I had an idea.

Cut out the side of the flange, kind of like cutting out the side wall of the hole and then weld it up.

Would that work?

I don't know what else you can do dude, there's not that many options, you're either going to have to do it the shitty way or the helicoil way or the new way.

Only way I think you could do it is with stick and a steady arm. That doesn't rely on shielding gas the same way TIG does. and I've done it before in holes, just kind of stick it in there and drag it around, do that a couple of times till the hole is full of metal. It ain't perfect, but with a skin...

Only way I think you could do it is with stick and a steady arm. That doesn't rely on shielding gas the same way TIG does. and I've done it before in holes, just kind of stick it in there and drag it around, do that a couple of times till the hole is full of metal. It ain't perfect, but with a skinn...