Ehh there's been some vehicles that have rolled through our shop when we pop the hood in summer it is quiiite toasty under the hood . Usually it's a old hopped up classic with poor venting / heat isolation on parts compared to a modern car. Could always take remote thermostat and pop it under the ho...

My weld area for smaller items is a old reefer trailer box with a aluminium floor. I've yet to get a big shock from it even with wet boots (80% of the shop is constantly wet that I am through) however I have got many a tingle from the high frequency as others have mentioned. Kinda spooks yah cause y...

Ah I get what your saying now.


Could do a very simple test of their knowledge by setting the welder up foraay alum and ask them to weld steel.

Watching what they do might be well worthwhile.

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Lockout end on The power cable could work. Like the type they use for machinery lockouts during repair. Or since it may tricky for you to lockup the whole welder you could lockup the torch and ground cables to render it useless. That's what I can think of to do simply. I have the same issues to a le...

They have a very wide kerf, like 1/2". Can be tricky to get started. No margin of error, they cut instantly what they touch. Gloves won't protect like with a disc. Someone gave me one, a used one. I took it out of the shop. Some of the meat heads I have around here...let's just say I don't wan...

Oscar wrote:That thing looks badass.

That was my thought instantly when I seen it one of those "10 amazing tool" videos.

Sure my circular saw blade on a angle grinder works too but this seems much safer and actually looks just as fast if not faster.

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I was figuring they'd be pricey, still waiting to hear back from a vendor to see just how pricey they are in my neck of the woods.




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I'm interested in buying these wheels to do beveling of tanks for weld prep and gouging of cracks and welds etc. Was just curious if anyone has first hand experience with them or has at least seen one at a tradeshow etc. https://www.pferd.com/int-en/products/highlights-and-innovations/alumaster-high...

If in not mistaken the filler rod is 309L to bridge the gap in the chemical makeup of the two metals. But I might be mixing up cast -carbon steel with carbon steel-stainless. As far as settings go would need to know thickness of materials and joint type to make a recommendation on that. Sent from my...

Could always go with the monster #24 from arc zone.

If that don't do it set another one up on a trailing arm [emoji14]

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I'll throw my two cents for what they're worth. I try and only use carbide tools or drill bits when cleaning the cast. Don't want anymore dust and debris getting I to pores than is already in there is my theory. My favourite is my trusty saw blade for aluminium on a angle grinder, leaves a nice clea...

Looks to me like you're on DC... Yea, I know you said all that about AC and balance... Haha that's what I thought too, but it wasn't the case. So if it wasn't on DC, please set to AC and replicate what you did... I can set my welder to 210A and won't make a melted part with the oxide layer 100% und...

Spartan, I never would've thought of magnetic fields but makes sense to me, my best guess was it was the force from an arc strike when the part finds it's ground on my not so pristine table. And tweake, I find it odd that it's not usually the lighter parts I weld that get the wobble that keeps going...

Idk what exactly that is but it reminds me of no gas or really really contaminated gas etc.


Don't know how it'd be possible to weld that much without melting the tungsten to oblivion though.


I kinda wanna try it on Monday now just to see what happens.

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Just a weird curiousity question, does anyone know why parts would wobble/vibrate sorta thing when I light up on them? Doesn't happen all the time but every now and again when I light up the part starts moving on its own accord sometimes bad enough to jump at the tungsten. Sent from my Pixel 3a usin...

I'd get a small cup too. 6 and 8 are nice but sometimes you want something smaller to get the torch where it needs to be

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I find with the o rings if I out them in dry they stick a little bit. If I lick my finger and wet them ever so slightly they don't stick.

graphite might be a good choice for lube as well

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I would say go to a hydraulic shop and find out what R size they are. Most of the hydraulic shops I've dealt with have a o ring size gauge alot like a jewelers ring guage. Just a tapered pin with many flat spots on it for the various sizes. Not sure if it can be bought or of they had them custom mad...

Pretty sure Walter has a machine that does that too. No idea how pricing compares though. Definitely neat what those machines do.

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The yellow is the zinc or tin in whatever coating is on the bolt burning completely up at the weld temps. I see it often at work with coatings or soft solder if a silver solder repair is carried out close to it and the solder gets over heated. Besides that though if you can get your hands on some mu...

Also not sure if you have a collet wrench or not but they definitely help slot. Got mine from arc zone and I have no more issues with a loose gas lense as I did before. (Used to pull the lense out with the shield cup when trying to only remove shield cup) Used to have a tough time getting my split c...

Perhaps the lense itself is just worn out?



Or are the threads on the torch head itself wearing out?

Did it start out as difficult to tighten down the tungsten or was it good at the start?

I'd personally try another lense and see what I get.

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Are you looking to grind down and blend the welds or just polish the heat tint off?

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I think my amperage was good. Had the machine set at 275 and was welding a 1/8 u channel to a 1/8 aluminium side plate of a core (little more amps for the 1/8 side plate due to fins on the backside drawing my heat out) Would agree to turn the amps up if I was sticking in the puddle. What bug hunter ...

Not sure if this is normal or not but has anyone else ever had your filler rod stick to your workpiece. It's almost like a arc strike happens and my rod gets stuck ever so slightly to my work. Never at the tip in the puddle but usually a inch or two back if I brush it against the work piece. Just cu...