WD 40 is definitely not the answer. The WD stands for water dispersant, and initially it will be ok, but it quickly goes hydroscopic and attracts moisture.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wax it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TIG button here as well. After I installed it, I haven’t plugged the foot pedal in at all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got my 210EXT about 4 years ago. Only use it occasionally, but I’m happy with it. I don’t think the CK unit was available when I decided on the 210EXT.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I run an old (WWII vintage) Smiths #2, which is like a Smiths Airline. I usually run about 10 psi on the acetylene and maybe 18 to 20 on the O2. The tips I use are V23 through V27. For a larger torch, I use a Victor100 with either a 0 or 2 tip. Light the torch on Actylene only, close it down just un...

Like others have said, oxy acetylene welding, and setting up the rig takes know how. Acetylene above about 12 psi becomes unstable and above about 15 psi can be explosive. Something not to be played around with by someone that doesn’t know what they are doing!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Don’t forget, whatever you use to remove the oxide layer, be it stainless brush or abrasive, be sure it has never been used on carbon steel before. Keep one set of tools and abrasives for steel, one for stainless and one for aluminum and NEVER mix them!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I’ve got a 210EXT and haven’t had any issues with aluminum. I use 2% lanthanated and grind to a point, and don’t ball the tip. Last project I did was a repair on a lower engine cowl, about .030 3003 material. Aside from dirty material that I couldn’t get all the paint off of (no room to get in behin...

I got one of the cheap HF 3” grinders and put a diamond wheel on it. Works pretty good for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Buy CK, doesn’t matter if it is from Jody or anyone else, just buy quality stuff.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Lol I know I'm trying to thread the needle here between spinning um by hand on my $30 HF bench grinder and spending a few hundo. I think there's some decent stuff between in the links I posted but looking for real world experience. I’ve got a HF 3” grinder with a diamond wheel, sounds like the same...

The thing that was hard for me with the TIG button is how sensitive it is. Lighting up before I was really ready. I’m getting used to it now. I don’t even think I want to go back to the pedal now.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Tig Button is an amperage control device, just like the pedal. It is non an on off switch. No need to set up and down slope(that defeats the purpose of having control of the amperage with the Tig Button.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TIG button is a pressure sensitive amperage control. Very light touch, so it doesn’t fatigue your hand.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

TIG Button, best investment I’ve made since I got my welder.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A couple questions here, is it a certified airplane or an Experimental Amateur Built aircraft? If it is a certified airplane, you should have material certs with the tubing ( you don’t always get them). Are you an A&P, or is another Person with an A&P going to sign off the work? If someone e...

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e4bea499f055/12509.PDF

Look at figure 12 on this drawing. Much better design and likely lighter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e4beb68539ae/12509.PDF

If you look at figure 12 on this drawing, you can see how a similar fitting design was done by Piper for the PA-20. Much better joint design, and likely lighter than the one in your plans.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If I read your drawing correctly, that's a really awful joint configuration to weld. Any chance of a gradual flattening of the round tube to make it easier to weld? Plus, the side-to-side rigidity of that configuration is quite poor (rocking motion). The welds are close together and result in the t...

I’d use a Furick cup, like the BBJ, long stick out and lots of argon, like cj737 suggested. You might also consider building a couple dams around the joint to hold the argon in there as you weld it. From a practical standpoint, it doesn’t look like a very good joint design. Given that it’s on the pl...

Dynasty is a nice machine, depending on what one, there is an option for modifying the AC wave. That said, for most aviation stuff, you are only looking at .058 or less tubing. Amps aren’t a big deal, and a #9 torch is a lot smaller than a #17, about the same size as the #18 water cooled torch. The ...

Good questions here. I’ve been welding steel tube airframes on and off for some 50 years, along with aluminum fuel and oil tanks and a bunch of other stuff. Most of what I’ve done was gas welding as that was all I could afford in my home shop. When teaching at an A&P school some years ago, I wor...

You ask about the torch, but didn’t ask about a cooler. What cooler are you planning to use?

I’ll second CK for torches and consumables


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Haven’t tried to but weld filler rod ends with TIG, but do it all the time with oxy/acetylene.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk