I think you need 2-3 teeth in your material as you cut. Too little and you break teeth, too many and you will be going slow and will put too much material into the teeth.

My weld department has been tasked with welding large bins out of 1/8" sheet metal, mild steel. Dimensions are about 5' x 6' and 6" deep. We usually weld on small things, and generally it is tubing of some sort, so we are looking up the best methods. What can we do to mitigate warping, tha...

We got an old square wave 355 that has been starting to eat up the electrodes for the high frequency starts. We have the gauges, it's at the suggested spacing. I still got some ideas dealing with resistance to track down but would appreciate feed back and any ideas in case I'm wrong.

I got a couple of wedlers that will pump the foot pedal as they move, it really looks nice and seems to be just as good as welding normally. depress while adding filler, let up the pedal and move forward. Also helps keep control of the heat input.

I'm surprised no one jumped on this, but it does seem more like a question for your google search bar. Backing strips might be a bit much, but there is always copper or aluminum you can use as backing. It will help stop burn thru, protect the back from oxides, and help soak up the heat. I will warn ...

if you have something to use as a backer bar, even just a small one for small stitch welds, it will get you a long ways. I helped a buddy chop his truck bed before and all we had at the time was a stick welder. I was able to get in a large tack before having to stop and peen the weld a little. Good ...

I tend to lean on the buy the cheap stuff and make my own table upgrades.

Gases can and do unmix, but it would take a good year plus of sitting to do anything funky. If you can wipe the brown away, it may just be dirty wire or your volts are really high. I would go with the "hmmm, that's interesting" post and weld on.

When my machine starts feeding funky, I start checking the consumables. The wire feed guide and the liner are last on the mind and can do the most frustrating things.

Clamps, tacks, and tiny stitch welds would be my go to.

Preheat helps post weld shrinkage, sometimes using the peen end of the hammer works(but leaves little divots). Short small welds while backtracking helps me out plenty on sheet metal.

I have never had that happen to me, https://www.princeton.edu/ssp/joseph-he ... nt-magnet/ google search says to make steel into a magnet point it north and hit it with a hammer a few times. Cool science trick you got gong on tho.

The dull gray looks like it got hot, I don't know about the white part, could be contaminants in the material bubbling out. I would turn up my gas and down my heat before giving it another shot.

Hey fellow Washingtonian, welcome aboard. I can tell you, MIG is so much faster and a bit more fun that TIG, which is good for mediation IMO. Hopefully all question you have will have a quick answer.

Better over kill that under kill, but watching Jody on his videos will probably give you the best advice there. I don't do stainless pipe, but definitely watch your heat. Turning up your torch flow a bit more that you would normally have it has helped me. Are you allowed to use backing tape? That st...

Looks like you got the idea of what it should be, once you dial in your hand eye and puddle coordination you can focus more on what you are doing. That is great work for a first weld.

Thank you, I tried a little ceramic composites but they aren't that great at handling shop floors. I'll go for your suggestion a bit harder. Simple solutions are my favorite.

I'm new here as well and noticed your question never really did get answers. First, you should check with your state business licence, you are already on call so you may be good to go on that part. If you have no problem lining up jobs, just getting them out there, I think your truck would do nicely...

I've been welding for a good decade now, i have been in the same metal fab shop the whole time. May not look good on a resume, but I found one of those good gigs with a fun boss that's hard to walk away from. Plus I do get promotions. We mainly do mig, I don't do tig anymore since I hired on 2 full ...

I'm trying to upgrade some parts on our production line, one one product it's important to have a 0.75" space between welds. Fastest way so far is to use aluminum (we are one mild steel), but those bars get eaten up fairly fast. I know brass and bronze would be options, but would something else...