I get quite a bit of "snap-crackle-pop" when welding aluminum. Most of it seems to be attributable to arc length/distance to work piece. If I start to hear it - I'll focus on where I am and close the gap between the tungsten and whatever I'm working on. Of course you close it too much and ...

Are you asking about the barrels or the stack?

The barrels. I don't have anyone around here that does plate rolling - well - I do but they are hours and hours away... Just didn't know if there was an easier place to find it.

I love the smoker. Do you have any ideas on where to source the pipe?
I'm on the east coast - and can't seem to find it anywhere.
Looks like a great build!

Or install quick connects... I'd love some suggestions as to how to approach it... I managed to bang the old hose and fitting back together... Kinda ghetto style... I'm back to laying my crappy beads until the new torch comes in - then we'll see if new shoes make me run any faster... They always di...

Except that he would have to Fab up either an adapter for that 3/8-24 fitting at the machine end to change it to a M16-1.5 nut, or change the fitting at the machine to a female 3/8-24 to accommodate the cable. Exactly - that's my issue right now. Turns out there's a price to pay for having that M16...

It's a new machine. I already have a note into Eastwood about it. The damage happened on our end. It seems the female connector on the cable is what makes it a strange fit. I've looked - and there are some SuperFlex replacements. A bit spendy when I don't "need" a new torch. There are othe...

IMG_2951[1].JPG Turns out my power cable is crimped - bent and damaged on the inside restricting gas flow. I've looked around online for a replacement hose - but most places want to sell the torch along with it. I just wanted to check here to see if anyone had any ideas on replacement or repair. 17...

I'd be interested to see the grind on the tungsten too. Some pictures would help. I had a hell of a time when I started on aluminum. I've had a few electrodes ball up and melt away immediately - rather than split. My issues were mostly due to shielding gas flow - among all the other noob stuff...

Of all the grips that I've tried - which allow me to feed filler rod without having to really think about it? The Kane-Grip - ala Kid Kane... With every other method so far - I end up feeding the rod by moving my hand around - rather than just a fluid motion with my fingers. I still have a long, lon...

Right now I'm a hair beyond -1 in the negative direction. I can try fiddling with it. I have a new flow meter on the way - so waiting for it to arrive before I start changing settings arbitrarily. I'd like to (best as possible) be able to meter the results. Change one thing at a time... Same goes fo...

The machine is locked at 60Hz and only has "clearance effect" as a setting to balance cleaning vs penetration. I have yet to really grow to understand it - but the negative side is supposed to be "more penetration - less cleaning" and the opposite when switched into the positive....

Overall you look just like a guy who's only been TIG welding for a few hours

You got that right!
There's a lot to understand... Finally getting some nice shiny beads in the last shot... Holding a much tighter arc in those.

Finally about as dialed in as I can be on this 1/8 stock... Time to pad beads... One right after the other on top of a 1/4" chill plate. No blown out metal... Just learning to lay them down and control the pedal. I really appreciate you guys here... Couldn't have figured it out with out you. Th...

Still a babe in the woods - but 6 pieces of aluminum became 3... Practicing pulsing the pedal and adding filler. 1/8 aluminum - #6 stubby - 3/32 electrode - 1/16 filler - 140 amps. They seem a little cold - but it's the first time I was able to do it without blowing away the metal on any of the part...

New Argon bottle - #6 stubby gas lens - 170 amps - 3/32 filler rod. The cleaning action is far better and no more soot in the welds... If it stays like this - and gets better from here - I'll be a happy man... Thanks to all for helping me think it through... I'm sure I'll have more questions and iss...

And a few minutes before the argon ran out... Or pretty much as it was running out...
Some dividends... Not getting cocky... Just happy to see something somewhat recognizable...

[youtube]https://youtu.be/K3NTAuDjuYA[/youtube] This video - starting around 8:08 - has Jody welding some really thin metal at a very comfortable, slow pace, at around 80 amps - or 2 amps per thousandth (roughly). No racing. No running. No burn-through - on a 60Hz machine... So - I'm not crazy that ...

Appreciate it - looking forward to getting some new metal and other stuff and getting started on some testing... Pics to follow.

Also pay attention to the backside of the material. At this stage, you should not expect to see a pronounced penetration line. If you do, less heat once you establish the puddle. Both of those welds penetrated all the way through. Once I let off the pedal a little bit the pool would no longer advan...

The top two runs on this coupon were at 140 amps. Just wanted to show them,
I'll get a new tank of argon tomorrow and and new ground clamp - just to rule them out - and see if I can't get a few beads laid down at 170 while running the machine at 220.
Then I'll post the results.

I checked - and the machine is locked at 60Hz. I'll have to wait till tomorrow to run it on a 220 circuit - but ran it tonight without filler metal at 140 amps on a 115 and the results were far less than desirable. I'll post photos in the am. Bead width was nearly 1/2" wide in no time - even wi...

170. 60 or 120 Hz, 70% on your Balance.

I'll be happy to.. Not sure how I can come close to this given the control surface of the Eastwood TIG200... Thinking that might be "some" of the issue...

keep the amps up high and increase travel speed That's kind of a thing at the moment. I'm trying to find a sweet spot that allows me to see what's going on and still have enough time to feed rod - before everything goes to hell. In football, when discussing rookie quarterbacks, you'll here analysts...

Day 4 with the new welder. Test coupons - 1/8 aluminum, wire-brushed and acetone wiped. 3/32 - 2% Lanth - 3/32 and 1/16 filler wire - mostly between 30 and 50 amps. #8 stubby gas lens - around 14-15 CFM Primarily focused on cleaning affect, travel speed, feeding filler rod in a timely manner and not...

The switch pictures look like your set for dc.

Yes. That was after I set the machine for steel - after the aluminum didn't go so well.