I use a Drill Doctor to sharpen my smaller bits. I think it's the higher end model that they sell. It works ok. Nothing spectacular, but it has saved me a ton of money for sure, and it is quite easy to use. Only problem is that on occasion it will give me a wonky grind...probably operator error, but...

I've never tried the Edge cups (I think those are HTP...at least I recall getting some ads from HTP for those cups). But I do love me some Furick cups. When I need the increased shielding, I use the ceramic 10 and 12 almost exclusively, but only because those suit my needs and I don't have much reas...

Check for leaks. If no leaks bump your argon up to 40 or so CFH to see if your reg is faulty and actually indicating way higher than what it is. This is not uncommon. I have seen once before in some very wide and thick flat bar that some mill scale got somehow rolled under the metal, resulting in a ...

Sorry friend, but lazy questions will get lazy answers. If you can't take the time to post the necessary details, settings, and pics, then don't expect others to take the time to help you solve your problem. People here love helping...when you've given them the tools to do so.

Yep, people misusing/abusing tools and equipment is always an issue. It's certainly frustrating when people do this, since many of those same people would treat the equipment with much more respect if they are the one paying for it. And often it is not a lack of knowledge of how to use it, it is jus...

Relative humidity levels are significantly more important than air temperature for fan cooled systems. Dry air at 70 degrees F will cool way less efficiently than wet air at 100 degrees F.

Did you get some big cups yet, Tweake? If not, let me know...I'll send you some. BUT figuring out postage to kiwi land is on you

Maybe a controlled burn. Used often when needing to control invasive species without destroying the soil. Call a pro to handle it.

of course i'm a CK fan, but other brands ok as long as they can fit on ck gas lens. for eg the furick cups require their own gas lens. I highly recommend Furick. The ceramic versions (and the new version of the glass BBW) will thread onto any CK 2 or 4 series gas lens. No modifications or anything ...

Which welder do you have? You may have mentioned it in subsequent posts, and I did try to scan for it, but this thread has gotten so incredibly long.

Just a weird curiousity question, does anyone know why parts would wobble/vibrate sorta thing when I light up on them? Doesn't happen all the time but every now and again when I light up the part starts moving on its own accord sometimes bad enough to jump at the tungsten. Sent from my Pixel 3a usi...

A good billiards player can win a game using a broom stick and only their teeth. I've seen an archer with only one arm outshoot everyone else on the field.

The skill is in your brain, not in your arms. Adapt and overcome.

He posted on the evening of the 2nd, and the first reply is on the evening of the 5th...so a full 3 days before his post was actually posted. There's no way it was more than an hour or two before replies came in to a post like that once it was visible. I'd bet that's the issue. Can't blame someone f...

Perhaps I think of it more simply. IMO, the leading edge of the puddle is always in the direction of travel. So if you're moving left to right, the leading edge of the puddle is always on the right. If you're moving right to left, the leading edge of the puddle is always on the left. It's basically ...

Looking good! And congrats on scoring some nice kit. Those 6 sided pieces are a good idea! Way more realistic and useful than just welding on small, flat coupons.

There's a lot to unpack here. I'd recommend Step 1 to be getting bigger coupons. Stick with 1/8" thick, but add some larger X/Y dimensions. You're completely saturating the part with heat and melting the inner aluminum, while the oxide layer stays intact. This is why a lot of it looks like a wr...

Your tungsten doesn't look that bad. I thought you meant you were dipping it and getting aluminum oxide running up it. What you have there should clean off with scotchbrite or similar, and doesn't look like it needs to be cut off. Check your post flow, though. Your tungsten shouldn't look like that ...

For Tungsten sharpening: I am breaking off the contaminated tip and regrinding. Should I also be cleaning/breaking-off/regrinding the oxidized area up the tungsten? Yes, you should remove all of the tungsten that has any contaminates on it, especially with AL. The oxides will continue to develop an...

For me, smooth, level concrete is the only way to go. A full polish would also be nice, but it's also expensive, and I would be concerned about slip hazards in my shop due to cutting fluid spills, etc. on a polished floor. That may be an unfounded concern, though. They are definitely easier to sweep...

Strange, I've always called them "quick disconnects". Guess it just depends on which side of the operation you want done quickly

Sure, some companies do use MLA (no such thing as actual AI ) to aide in filtering and collating impressions and sentiments. But these are not “bot-driven” algorithms. Yes, and apparently AI is the new marketing buzzword for pretty much any dynamic algorithm that does the exact same thing they were...

Looking at the American systems, I would argue that 316 and 321 fall under the same classification (AWS A5.9/ASME SF A5.9), and this would not constitute a "change" in classification as you mentioned in your req. But looks like you may be using an Australian system....so I have no idea. Bu...

Dang, I get way less grief from Everlast

Glad you got it sorted.

I should have taken better pics. Looked like someone literally took a MIG gun on random settings and just shot wire at it for a full 2 minutes. Worst I've ever seen. Got her all patched up, though. 95% grinding, 5% welding.

Holy Moly. It didn’t crack. Looks like it just fell off. And it’s part of a hitch mount. Lovely...

The pics don’t really do this thing justice.