I was able to score a (local) can of 3/32” 8018-C3-H4R. I used an abrasive (120 grit) nylon-bristle cup brush to get down into the bottom of those pits to get back to shiny metal. It actually worked pretty well. Used a flap disc to clean up around the pits. As cj737 predicted, some of the areas were...

you need to grind all that rust off. needle gun, sand blaster. whatever you need to get it down to the metal. just looking up weathering steel, that rust won't be normal rust. the other alterative is use different rods. eg 6010/11 burn through the rust but you will loose the rust protection. or pos...

Good luck welding that with 7018 and 1/8 rods. Cor-ten that has corroded like that is a MFer to repair, and the material is far thinner than you think right there. I’d drop to a 3/32 60xx series or 70xx if that’s all you have. You could try a chemical cleaning first, then sand to bright metal. That...

For starters, I cannot easily buy COR-TEN metal. So, if I have to put metal in here, I’d rather add as little non-COR-TEN as possible. Hence, the “body filler”. Given how much regular steel costs these days, I can only imagine how much COR-TEN would cost IF I could find it.

I have a shipping container with some pretty significant pockmarks in the overhead frame rail at the door. I want to fix this before anything starts getting packed in there again. I cleaned up the area, and then I tried to weld it up with 7018 1/8” rods. I could NOT seem to get that dialed in. Eithe...

Yeah, that’s pretty bad. I might suggest eating the expense and getting some 2.5x2.5x3/16 and start over. Cut that other thing up and sell it as scrap to recoup some money. Your time to “repair” that frame will be vastly more than the cost of newer material you only have to miter and corner weld. H...

Yeah, that’s pretty bad. I might suggest eating the expense and getting some 2.5x2.5x3/16 and start over. Cut that other thing up and sell it as scrap to recoup some money. Your time to “repair” that frame will be vastly more than the cost of newer material you only have to miter and corner weld. U...

I grabbed a couple of pics to show how bad the bow is…

I see, the frame loose when welding on the “walls” racked your frame. You don’t need to fully weld the seam if that’s what you’ve done when adding the sheet/plate to the angle. Doing so will warp your frame. Stitch welds about 2” long every 12” is ample to hold it together. But when you weld things...

@Gdarc21 I'll see if I can get some pictures of it, but I'd be embarrassed to post them! LOL I was using a new welder and trying to feel it out. It was real amateur hour... too cold, way too hot, 3/32 seems too small, 1/8 seems too big, etc., etc. Are there any tricks, without having a 1/2" thi...

Hello! I recently created a 1.5"x1.5"x0.125" angle iron frame to mount a ventilation fan to a connex container. I added 1/8" plate "walls" to the frame to give me some depth, given the corrugated nature of the construction of the connex. With that said, I TIG welded the...

Hello Folks, I recently got a few of the Walter Flex-Cut Mill Scale disks that Jody mentioned in one of his videos. It works GREAT for removing mill scale, as you'd expect, but afterward, when I try to wipe down (acetone) my material for TIG welding, my rags are decimated by the rough surface left b...

Good Afternoon Everyone! I just signed up for this forum, which seems odd, given that I've been watching and learning from Jody for years. Somehow, I just never found my way to this forum. I'm just a home/hobby welder. I love to create tools/solutions for needs around the house/shop, and of course, ...