New gas and bottle swap, is from the same supplier so I don't really suspect that. Even the most professional, careful shop can send out a bad bottle by accident....it happens. Guys that run bit operations have even commented that they can figure out a percentage over time that will be bad...they g...

In my view TIG is the easiest over stick and MIG. Having the On/off switch during welding does make it more user friendly and you also have more time to control things. Plus the facility to do other metals. Also very safe when using around materials other than metal, no molten blobs flying around th...

Spartan wrote:A clogged up diffuser could certainly interfere with the flow of the shielding gas. Definitely worth cleaning or replacing it. I replace my gas lenses every few months or so for this exact reason.

Thanks. Seems pretty obvious now in hindsight.

It's possible that when you connected the current bottle and ran for 60 seconds you were really using the gas that was between the flow meter and the gas solenoid, not what was coming out of the tank. What I meant there was, after getting the bad gas at the end of the previous tank I decided with t...

Since the gas lens doesn't get hot enough to burn whatever contamination is sitting on it, I would be very skeptical about that being a problem. It's not like having steel gunk on your tungsten where it's at 3000 degrees Fahrenheit. Cleaning the gas lens or replacing it can't hurt but I would almos...

Oscar wrote:

gnabgib wrote:..... it doesn't look the best.....

We can't see it from here....

Suppose I meant it seems clogged...
Have you tried squinting? Problem, for such detail I don't think a photo would work.

Hi everyone, been a while. Around a month ago my cylinder of Argon emptied but before that happened I pushed it to the very limit where I copped the ending Co2 contamination. I got a refill and ran about 60 seconds of gas through but ever since I've had more than any usual porosity which happen some...

kiwi2wheels wrote:Use a suitable epoxy filler, such as one of these from Devcon.

https://itwperformancepolymers.com/products/devcon

Then you wont have the problem of chips/swarf in the recess damaging the wipers.

Good point, thanks.

I recently bought a small Schaublin precision lathe and later found a small chip out of one of the ways. Chip is about 4mm across. Could I repair and would it be worth the effort/trouble, considering this type of damage won't effect the function or accuracy of the lathe?

Why would you weld downhill unless a WPS called for it and I don't think it would then require 7018's.

Hello everyone, I am currently in a college program and wondering if 6 hours of being thrown in a booth with barely any direction (other than Jodi's video) is enough time before a overhead 4g weld test? I failed this test and i'm feeling defeated, im an honour roll student in every class except sti...

If you overheat stainless steel it can lead to loss of stainless properties. Best to cold work if possible. As in a hydraulic ram. (porta power) Thanks, I take your point about the heating but I don't have access to any sort of press equipment. Only small so possibly clamps and wedges? I suppose if...

I needed a short length of channel, 37x40x300mm, and as I had the stainless, decided to TIG it up using some of the pieces I had but the open side has closed up a little so I'll need to wedge it and heat until it's back to correct size. Anything I need to consider re. the heating?

I really like the 7016's especially these Kobe rods. Now wonder if Jody would ever do anything with 7016's? They seem almost nonexistent in the US. who knows. probably would if he could find some. i've got 7016 because i can get it in small packs. a bit hard to for me to find 7018 in small enough p...

i think both have are potassium based, but every manufacture has their own mix and a lot of the other things they put in influences how it runs. i have a list somewhere of the common ones. keep in mind there is a lot of leeway in the specs especially AWS. I really like the 7016's especially these K...

Ok, I'm faced with a 250mm long overhead butt weld on a T beam lintel with a 10mm flange thickness. The web has already been welded. I know the routine but the unknown quantity is that brickwork has already been built on top. Not my doing. So, 85 amps for the root, 105 for the hot pass and 95 to 10...

[quote="luckyroo20"]I've been struggling with my root pass for some time. Example: When I am whipping and pausing the puddle feels like its not moving. Other times the keyhole gets too big on me Can you look at my welding and tell me if I'm getting enough penetration and if you see any def...

i havn't done it, but any insulation on the back side of a weld will require slightly less amps. how much less i have no idea. just like a chill bar means you increase amps. i would recommend practice first. tho a concern might be about the brick cracking with the heat. typically avoid welding on c...

Ok, I'm faced with a 250mm long overhead butt weld on a T beam lintel with a 10mm flange thickness. The web has already been welded. I know the routine but the unknown quantity is that brickwork has already been built on top. Not my doing. So, 85 amps for the root, 105 for the hot pass and 95 to 100...

I got the job because I'm Australian. International timezones and all. And you know how to get results with a bit sandpapering of your balls :P I bought a Kemppi Mastertig 10 years ago for probably too many doll-hairs, but it has been used almost every week since then and has never had it's skirt l...

For clarity, is the 20x5mm installed on its edge and split the thickness of the plate? Essentially a "frame" around the plate? On edge but flush with outside edge of the plate, so forming an angle around perimeter. If so, I would spot tack 2 opposing sides numerous times, say every 75mm o...

For squaring tube, etc, it's hard to go past a pedestal mounted disc sander ( 16" and up ) of this style ; https://www.baileigh.com/heavy-duty-disc-grinder-dg-500hd The earlier ( 20th century ) US made models are the ultimate if you could find one. Agreed, but interesting that one, for the pri...

I suspect a bigger problem will be when I do the fillets on the inside and I'm thinking of 4 welds @ 40mm long over the 600mm. Apologies for the metrics for those not used to it.

Yes I've done the carbon steel but in this case I don't think sugaring will be your major problem, more like how to control the heat.

mk1_oz wrote:PART 1
I think the shock came up through the filler rod.

This is possible if you have no, or a poor earth and you touch the filler wire to the material before starting the arc.
I've now repeated what some others have already said.