Chilliepaste,
Here is a topic that will answer your tungsten questions.
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=5&t=4423

Otto Nobedder wrote:
If this is an ongoing problem, you may be "money ahead" to cut the whole damn thing off, dress it, and re-weld it the right way.

I second Steve's idea. It might be better to start over. At least by doing this you will know exactly what is there and if it was done right.

Anton,
How did you make out on your pieces?

Bagus,
Another Aussie! Welcome to the forum. In all seriousness is this forum/Jody that popular in Oz? Let me say I am in no way making light of you folks, I have a high respect for you and am very curious about how you guys do things over there.

HotRod96,
Welcome to the forum. What specific tips are you after? We will be glad to help!

weldin mike 27 wrote: The slag of the preceding run gives a bit of support to the next run

Doesn't this go against everything we have been taught in the past? I would think these welds would be full of inclusions. Anyone out there have a picture or video of this being done?

budcurrie, As far as certs go there is no one that covers all or one that is necessarily better than others. As Wes917 said each material (and thickness) requires a separate test. Also consider as an example a 1" D1.1 will cover you unlimited thickness and 24" and up pipe but does not cove...

vr6swap, In my opinion if it if free and you have a 4-1/2" grinder with 36 grit it will be worth it. If all you are doing is practicing or padding than you can easily remove the anodized finish and weld. Keep in mind when grinding this stuff wear your respirator and when you first light up it w...

Welcome to the forum Bulldog2010!

Here is something to try. Just like you would do a lay-wire on carbon try it on some Aluminum. I have never heard of anyone doing this. For fun I was playing around with this new 4943 and was trying to lay-wire. It actually worked fairly well. Anyone ever done this before or used it for some specifi...

weldin mike 27 wrote:Hey,

I heard if you dip a 7018 in water, and crank up the amps, it'll cut and gouge like an animal.

Mick

I have used 7018 as a gouging rod a few times but on 1/8" sheet and with no water. Crank it up to 200-250 amps and it will work, although it will make a mess.

I re-read your post here and on weldingweb and the only conclusion I can come to is this, Pre-heat to 200-350 degrees. I agree with the suggestion to add more filler per dip, although I am not saying this will cure your problem. This 4943 is supposed to be really good stuff. I just got some today as...

You could try the wire brush but I don't think that will help your situation. What about trying this filler wire. Maxal 4943.
http://www.maxal.com/4943_datasheet.pdf

Infotig, Yes you can always leave your machine set at 250 amps and it will not hurt a thing. However you might want to consider this. Lets say you set the machine at 250 amps which means when the pedal is maxed out this is what you get as your output. You will have less fine control with it set at 2...

This video might help you out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqXSHdRbOG0

Our local distributor tells me that it is the cold and conditions. Guess they don't want to go out in cold and get us our fuels

[quote="eddahenry"]
Seeing I have stated that I work for the distributor , I would see that as commercial advertising[quote]
Yea I didn't think of that, sorry.

Andrew,
Glad to hear you like your new baby. Don't worry you will never stop using your eraser . Start a new topic in the welding projects section and lets see your art.

dwhip361,
Welcome to the forum! I have tried looking these up too. Can you get us a picture of the box they came in with all the necessary numbers.

Superiorwelding wrote:Mizzip,
I am surprised that your instructor is not having you whip the 6013. Not that you should/shouldn't. .

Just thought I would clarify that I don't recommend whipping 6013, just I have seen so many whip this rod, including limited instructors.

eddahenry wrote: When it comes to the pro gear we leave that to the German company ewm ,
Here is my picomig mig 180 multiprocess plus

Maybe you could start a thread with more pictures and a review of these machines in the MIG section. I have a sweet spot for welding machines abroad.

Mizzip, First welcome to the Forum. Your welds are looking good. I am surprised that your instructor is not having you whip the 6013. Not that you should/shouldn't. The welds themselves look reasonably uniform as far as how smooth they are. Honestly this is better work than I have seen out of some b...

Tungsten Wolf, Those welds look awesome! I love the consistency you have. As far as manually pulsing I do it some but not as good as a machine for sure. I guess I don't have the rhythm down, I will have to practice more. Most of the parts I have welded are not long runs like you have. The most regul...

I mostly use a #7 on steel. It is universal enough for most anything. I would look at having a 6,7,8 and 10. A #4 has its place so don't get rid of it.

Thanks for getting back with us. Let us know what you ultimately come up with. Also if it happens again or if you still have access to the original weld, get some pics up.