Rick_H wrote:@Markus @ottonobedder @braehill have you ever had to weld the top of a large vessel and fill it up 80-90% with water then purge the small area left?

No but I have had very bad experience about water/moisture in long pipe lines. Purging pipe with moisture in it will create somewhat awful root.

This is how to calculate purging time, if you don't have purge meter. Purge time (minutes) = [Volume (litres) x Change over] / Gas flow (l/min) * Needed times to change the volume "change over" is 5-10 times. Example: Volume = 1000 l Purge gas flow = 10 l/min Change over times = 5 (1000 l ...

What kind of shape is this tank? Usually pipes can be flushed with high speed purging, but flow needs to be laminar. Tanks are different story. I would recommend 10-15 l/min during filling and 5-10 l/min during welding. There is thin line between good purging and wasting gas. Are you using argon or ...

As already said here: -First make sure you clamp your ground into the part itself! It's very important to have good ground due to fact that 70% of the current flows trough the ground. -Don't flatten tungstens tip. Flat tip is used on high amps to avoid wearing. On low amps you need very sharp tungst...

Bevel the pipe to knife as already recommended and for thickness of 2.8 mm I would run two beads. Another way is that you use argon-hydrogen mix shielding gas. Deeper penetration and also leaves better color. Why do you need better color? Even orbital will create dark welds in this kind of case and ...

Rick_H wrote:Nice Markus was that machine or hand?

Thanks Rick. That one was hand welded this time. 2mm is much harder to get same colors due to heat.

I'm not a big fan of heat tint colors, but sometimes those are fun to watch

316L 21,3x1,6 mm pipe.

Clearly something is leaking. I know for a fact that my feed line has a very slow leak, but I doubt it would cause my discolor. In the mean time however, here is my build log for the locomotive I am building. The pictures show some fusion tack welds I did with my stock 17 setup, and also some crapp...

Make sure you're using the proper neoprene "washer" behind the ceramic cup. Sounds like you're getting atmospheric gases pulled in. Yup thought so too. Check leaks from your torch. With gas lens you should not have any problems at all, specially if you have setted the amount of argon flow...

Good tips already. Is that from CBR btw? To sum up. - Use purge gas. This will prevent any future problems like cracking. After all that oxide is very brittle so its not ideal to have it on a bike that revs like a hell and also the exhaust goes trough lot of heating and cooling. Flux will do, but fl...

Hey Steve, I wanted to make a post but "sorry, board limit has been reached" is what I get when I try to upload pics. Is there a fix for this? Vic. I had the same problem too. Needed to upload pics onto FB. Btw tes results came... Everything was OK :D I did only three passes as solved the...

Going to have 6G PED-test weld tomorrow. So I did some practice today. Material Carbon steel P355 Diameter 60.3x6.2 mm Root face 2.0 mm Gap 3.0 mm Root was done with pulse and freehand. Hot pass straight current and freehand. Third pass with walking the cup. It might need 4 passes because there was ...

Adjusting Kemppi's TIG welders is a real nightmare

Good luck, you are going to need it

4 mm is too thick with one pass. Specially if you have to weld in 5G position. Puddle just gets too big. Formier is a good gas, but it should not be used with open root due to ferrite lost. Nitrogen will get in to the arc etc. Are you sure that 2 passes are actually slower than one? Sometimes you ar...

Try to use fast pulse. Lowers heat input, but also it tends to suck up corners together much better.

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Sorry for the delay guys.... To correct myself first. I wrote little misleading about buying. We didn't actually bought that, but rented it. Here in Finland we do agreement for renting specific amount of bottles for 3 year for example. Rent at the moment is same as with old bottles for now. It will ...

Good guesses guys :lol: I have noticed that we always seems to have too few pipe stand around at work. Instead of paying 500 € from one decent stand I decided try do those myself. So I drawn one and I'm about to do 10 of those now. For a start at least :lol: As I will do these all by myself, I thoug...

Well today was mostly paper work, but managed to get my hands onto next project too.
So I started with this Anyone want to guess what that thing is?

Bottle in the picture is 20 l bottle with 300 fill pressure. Empty weight is 22 kg. Old one weights 36,5 kg.
So new bottle is quite much lighter, but also contains 45 % more gas.

Yup we decided to test new bottle from Linde. It's light, more compact, it got digital meter and it's cool :lol: AGA, which is local gas distributor, will take care of filling the bottle. You just simply take empty bottle to outlet and grab a new one with you. Optional accessory's are wheels, longer...

So I have a piece of equipment that sorts and loads plastic bottles for the industry. It can be a little violent at times due to the bottle size and or the rpm of the drum. It tends to crack a welded joint fairly often. I prefer to re weld them, 304L with 308L filler. One of my counter parts has be...

Here is little article from Euro Inox guide, Working with stainless steel. Can be read or downloaded from here http://www.euro-inox.org/pdf/map/Workin ... eel_EN.pdf

Stainless steel is red-hot when it's formed and worked at the foundry. It amazes me that people think it's bad to get it hot again. Surface oxides are the only thing to control, and that's done with the atmosphere it's in, or the post-treatment if there is material to sacrifice. I regularly silver-...

Is the base metal L-grade?