Picked the part up and they were able to machine everything to the specks I asked. I presented the part to the A&P resealing the nose strut and he then proceeds to point out another area that need to be milled .03” and tells me it will have hydrologic lock if it’s not corrected. Original on the ...

There’s got to be plenty of 150Gs in salvage yards to get the right part. A better bet may be to get the entire strut. When I’ve seen airworthy 150s go for $10k lately, you could buy a whole plane for not much more than Textron wants for that part. All that said, welding that up with 309 wire and t...

That is exactly what happened. In reading through the service manuals for the 100 series aircraft, our particular year was where they made some changes. Literally the prior year had two possible setups and with the 1967 year, shortened the metering pin slightly as well as changed the small collar at...

Dup

Luckily, I just found a viable replacement at our local aviation wrecking yard. Yup, we have one here is Sacramento. It’s the same yard the Mythbuster team got all of their aviation items for all the aviation myths. Chicken gun, spiral cut wing, etc. Anyway, for the most part, it’s identical with th...

There is no way a DER would sign off on that type of repair. He would need to know the exact composition of the bolt either through analysis or the original drawings. The part would need heat treating after re machining the threads. If it is off a 150 just give White Industries a call and get a ser...

Thanks guys for your responses. All very valid points. In fact, in looking closer at the part, I am thinking the top has been machined at some point in its past. Color difference and a beveled edge where every reference I have pulled on line doesn’t have that particular cut.[emoji848] The hunt for a...

Good evening, I discovered that I need to have possible TIG repairs made to a nose strut metering pin's threads. In the nose strut at the FAA shop, I see that the threads have been damaged by age, corrosion, someone forcing the nut off rather than using finesse. At this point, its anyones guess as t...

The person who brazed this appears to have known what he was doing, despite the "less than uniform" appearance. All joints are lapped or scarfed to provide maximum surface wetting, which is why it has held this long. Removing the bronze will be harder and more time consuming than replacin...

Mike wrote:Welcome to the forum.

Thanks Mike,

Look forward to the vast wealth of knowledge from the other members on the forum.

Cheers,
Trevor

JT68912. From the photos it 'seems' that the brazed joints did not corrode away nor did they break. If they can be utilized, it would make sense to leave them intact. They are also part of the 'history' of that vehicle. Nothing inhibits you from using more than one process ... brazing and/or weldin...

Hey, Are you dead against using brazing to renew this part? I say this because im not sure if there is a really easy way to remove the bronze filler material. I have burned it out with an arc welder before but I am not recommending for anything good because it makes a hell of a mess. Brazing, in th...

These pictures are what I started with before I discovered that the front suspension pan was replaced many years before.

As you can see, the parts were all attached via the braising method.

Here are some more photos....

Hello, New to welding, the forum, and much needed knowledge..... This is my first post on the forum and since I know enough about welding to be considered extremely dangerous, I thought I would refer to the experts. We are attempting to restore two 1968 Porsche 912's that are in need of some metal r...