I too preffer the cobalt bits.
Dont go for carbide if you dont have a stable mill. They will shatter if used in a cheap drill press.

MosquitoMoto wrote:
TCT dry cut...noted. Thanks!

Moz

Hi and welcome

Make sure to get tct blades rated for SS, the regular steel or multi-purpose blades wear down in just a few cuts.

Know from own experience...

Good to hear you're well Jeff.
Sent you a PM a while ago, worried when you didnt reply.

Thanks, I'll try those tips next time being cornered.

Can someone explain why there would be shielding issues in a pocket like that?
It should trap the argon well but I get the same in corners.

Cut a strip of fire blanket and wrap around the pipe where you need to support or slide.

Papercuts

Hi and welcome.
Make sure you get a quote for a package ready to weld.

You buy the front panels separately so it might not be included in the price on the machine.

The MLS is about 2100 euro here for just the machine, no torch, panel, nor cables.

The ACX panel is another 700

Thanks Len
Its for fuel so its not absolutely necessary.
About 45 liters and just a 50 mm hole for the fuel sensor so tape is not good here.

I'm about to weld the top of a SS tank, 16-17 gauge or 1,5 mm.

Would filling it with water to 1/2" below top level be stupid or a good idea?
Im thinking about possible steam might screw it up.

I want to do it to save gas and keep it as cool as possible to reduce distortion.

Thanks guys.

Its for fuel.
I intend to fuse it but I wanted to show how clean it came out before touching it.

Yeah, that's short
Great pic, never seen them side by side before so that says everything.

Thanks buddy for putting another thing on the wish list

Is that 24 shorter than a 9 with gas lens?

Thanks for the english lesson :mrgreen: My language have the same word for it no matter if its on a car, pneumatic or a gun supressor. Was that a mirror weld inside the larger pipe? I did my probably ugliest tig weld inside a tank yesterday. Couldnt see the puddle, helmet flashing, new rubbish glove...

Welcome
Good to see a fellow viking here .
Not too many of us here, or one too many some might think

Here is a simple purge system I put together from pneumatic (automation) parts. They are cheap, many different options and relatively easy to find. Beginning at the regulator with an Y-block and and connecting an oxygen hose. (Yes I know, a dual regulator would have been better and easier to set. Ma...

Pretty much the same experience for me.
I let my (expensive) progressive glasses stay away from the workshop and use cheap reading glasses + a cheater lens.

Its been a while since I used a Kemppi but you should get access to balance and freq using the quick setup button. Either toggle
or use arrows until % or Hz lights up

Very good indeed
Looks like there would be a use for them in many various applications.

What does the marking plate says, your company?

Drill a lot of small holes along the edge of the aluminum block. Cross drill to connect all holes, connect your purge line there.

I think Jody showed a block like that in one of his recent videos.

Yes it does.
Use the upload attachment when posting. Choode file, then add file and last "place inline" where you want it to show up.

If you only find what you are after in "the foreign language", post a link here and I'll translate the interesting parts for you.
Assuming its Swedish then

Have heard only good about Rtech, hope you'll be happy with it. Try some mig wire on the 1 mm sheet. You'll be able to lay some very small beads when you get used to the pedal. If you have a pot on it for max amp setting, use it. Soo much easier to control if you just set it slightly above what you ...

After what I have seen from you before you have nothing to be nervous about.

Good luck tomorrow (even if I think luck has nothing to do about it )

I wondered how fast the chineese would pick up this feature once the big names rolled it out.
Quicker than I expected.