7018 is an amazing rod. You wouldn’t believe what gets built here in the North West with out tents. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/ks7JwJ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/905/ZX4AId.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/ClbFaB.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538...

I just switched welders with my brother-n-law. He has my Everlast PowerArc 300, and I have his Everlast PowerArc 200 ST. This PowerArc 200 ST is very impressive with 6010, and 7018.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/produ ... rarc-200st

Here’s a couple pictures of it.

You should always feather grind your starts and stops. One thing I do with open root welding. When the rod is just about burned up, and I have to stop and change rods. I punch the rod right through the groove. This gives you a small hole. Feather grind the area, and when you start back with the new ...

Try my joint prep, but also try it on DCEP. You may like it better on DCEP.

Yes seriously! Unless you have a WPS stating to only run DCEP. DCEN will help prevent burn through. I don’t see how running on DCEN would fail an xray.

Try a heavy 1/16" to 5/64-inch land, use a 5/64-inch drill bit for the gap. 3/32-inch 7018 run on DCEN about 65 to 70-amps for the root.

I would get him to an Acupuncturist right away! Bob kept me working for 8-years after a severe brain injury. Making a pick on a derrick, pad eye broke. The rigging blew right through the safety latch on the hook. Rigging hit me in the back. Drove me face first into the deck of the barge. Shattered m...

gnabgib wrote:And how would you do backing straps on a length of pipework anyway?

We always called them chil rings.

Think of backing straps as a crutch. Not everybody can weld open root.

Personally I think dual shield is a little faster than Mig. But you’d have to look up the deposit rates to be sure. Dual shield is kind of a pain to clean up after. I really love Lincoln’s L-56 Mig wire. To me it would be a toss up, which one to go with. I wouldn’t use anything less than 1/16-inch w...

Maybe this will help.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... rodes.aspx

Are you talking about dual shield wire? Which requires gas! Whole different animal from self shielded wire.

For self shielded flux core I really like Lincoln’s K-126 Guns. The problem with these guns is you can not replace the liners, so you need to blow them out once a week. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/1Lmh3z.jpg Few months ago I bought a K-126 Pro gun. You can change the liners in these gu...

Stan .045“ wire is right on the edge of having to have a dedicated flux core gun. Are you trying to run self shielded flux core through a regular Mig gun? And do you have serrated drive rolls in the LN-25?

Yeah, well I’ve only been welding for a few weeks now!
Turing the wire speed up, does increase the AMPS, but also shoves more wire into the puddle. If you increase the volts, the puddle will flow more / wet out. Now if he had an inductance control, / Pinch that would really help!

They all look cold to me. I would turn up the voltage. Or maybe your travel speed was too slow.

Weld looks pretty good. You could have turned the gun 90-degrees to the plate, backed up just a touch, and closed up the amount of stick out to fill in the crater.

I hope that’s not for overhead lifting, especially on a job site!

Are you working to any seismic codes that will require a T-8 wire? If so Lincolns NR-233, or ESAB’s Coreshield 8 are good wires. I’d say the Coreshield 8 is just a touch user friendlier than NR-233. If you can get by with a T-11 wire, Hobart’s 21-B is a great wire. Before the Northridge earthquake i...

I have a PowerArc 300. It does great with 6010! I wish the arc force went a little lower so 7018 would wet out better. Lincoln's Excalibur 7018 doesn't do to bad, but I'd still like to see it wet out a little more. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/674/molDNI.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2...

WOW, that is some thick wall pipe! Do you walk the cup, or free hand the torch?
Seems to me the welds are some what cold. All n all pretty nice!

If you do buy a PA-200, track down some ESAB 10P-Plus 6010. A guy from another site who I'm helping him with his welding bought a Longevity Stickweld 250. The 10P-Plus ran real nice on it too.

The PA-200 is a strange duck when running 6010! You have to hold a very close arc length. Once I got that through my thick head it runs ESAB's 10P-Plus 6010 like a dream. It Runs ESAB's Atom Arc 7018 very very nice! The PA-300 runs 6010 fantastically! I just wish it wet out a little more with 7018. ...

Blue Driver for what little you think you might run 6010, I sure wouldn't let that stop me from buying the Dynasty. What I would do is buy the Dynasty, once you have it home, and running. Start buying small quantities of different brands of 6010. I would start with ESAB's 10P-Plus. Then Lincoln's 5P...

Another really good 6010 for running on inverter welders is ESAB's 10P-Plus.