I can't help you, but I would be DAMN interested in the answer and some techniques. being able to knock together a simple boring bar would be a lifesaver sometimes...

looks good so far, man. I'dve said something earlier, but I've been busy and just not checking the forums. your dice look good in that other thread, but I would advise welding .050" to .063" a few times before you go ahead and weld these puppies on. .050" is REAL easy to blow holes in...

I only use mig wire in a pinch because it's a paint to deal with it coiling around. I bought some .045" er70s-6 cut-length rod that I use for filling small holes. but, i have used mig wire in the past (after spending 5 minutes trying to straighten it out...). I just used plain old .030" er...

have you had any luck finding a supplier that carries premium 2% lanthanated electrodes online? I've been using 1.5% for the last year or so and get decent results, but after seeing jody's review tonight, i figured I'd give the 2%s a shot, but I can't seem to find any at my normal suppliers. I can p...

what are you welding? 6061? 3003? 1100? what thickness? get some 1/8" 6061 flat stock and try lighting up on that. it sounds to me like you're starting up with WAAAYY too much amperage or on tinfoil. do you have a manual? there is a link somewhere on the forum here that goes to a page that has ...

Hey, someone asked a question I definitely know the answer to! I work in automotive restoration. I weld mostly 18-22ga, mostly on the thinner end due to rust, ect. 1/16 tungsten (I like 1.5% lanthanated. have had problems with ceriated splitting) .030-.045" filler #4 cup @ 8-9 cfm small stickou...

do they even read the title of the forum?

looks like contamination in your base metal to me. I've been welding patches in an austin healey front shroud, which is 1100 and always full of junk, and the first pass always looks like that. I usually set the cleaning up high and use a squared off tungsten and dance over the area I'm going to weld...

yeah, that 1/16 is only good to 16ga, in my experience, anything over that and you're better off moving up to 3/32. those outside corners, though, always require more gas. because you're shooting gas at that corner, it doesn't 'pile up' like it does aiming at a butt/lap joint or inside corner.

what size cup are you using? outside corners need a bigger cup and a bit higher flow to fully shield the rod and weld puddle. I've had that same problem and for me, more shielding fixed it. try a #7 or 8 gas lens cup w/ 15-17cfm of flow.

ok, I get it now. you might still have some issues with that 'false floor' rusting in the future, but your floor repair should be ok. I'd recommend putting a stitch in all 4 corners though (between 'weld point' 1 &3). those 'weld points' are called tack welds your green 'W.TIP' sections are call...

This does not belong on this forum. please remove it.

this is what I was referring to with the holes and plug welding: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm I'm a little confused by your first photo. are there two layers of floor there? it looks like you've cut out the top layer and welded a new patch in, but didn't clean/prep/prime the under laye...

no problem with SS brushes other than the cost. I use 'em for everything 'cause they're easier to keep clean and they last longer.

off the cuff, I'd say that your autodarkening helmet's sensitivity is set too low. welding aluminum uses more amperage and therefore has a brighter arc, so it should trigger the lens. I've had a problem similar to yours switching from welding 16ga aluminum @ 90A to welding 22ga steel @ 30A. I bumped...

how are you planning to put in the new floor pan? are you going to completely remove the old floor pan to the factory seams or splice it in? lap joint or butt joint? have you ever tried welding plugs w/ your TIG machine? they're a lot slower, but its not too hard. without pictures, i can't say for s...

I'd recommend only using TIG for external sheet metal and frame/suspension parts that can be done off-the-car. you're better off mig welding all the inner structure panels with plug welds than trying to TIG them together.

specific questions and pictures would help

check out this pipe cutter! it will do up to 0.320" wall tubing from 1-8" diameter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP33LZB3R4k&feature=related and this t-joint former is friggin cool: http://www.t-drill.com/T-60%20SS.html I sent a quote request, but I presume they cost a large pile of d...

conccreteguy, are there iproved thermal properties of these newer concrete mixes, or just abrasion? molten steel has a habit of popping chunks of concrete out of the floor from the residual water content in the concrete rapidly turning to steam.

the seal coat you put on should give you some protection from oxyfuel cutting popping chips out of the floor (from steam expansion) but I have no idea whether it will scorch w/ sparks and spatter. I've only used the floor epoxy stuff in a paint booth which, for obvious reasons, isn't used for weldin...

yeah, any post by "admin" in red letters is jody.

hey, don't thank me, thank jody. he made 'em

I can't recommend a dvd, but jody put up a great series of videos covering all the settings on the everlast powertig 250ex : http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welder-settings.html jody also has a video that covers some techniques to practice aluminum welding : http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.c...

it sounds like you're still not getting enough shielding down in that corner. the geometry of the joint you're trying to weld makes it hard to get the cup in close to the joint. there are a couple things you can try: - clean your parts with a solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner. you may have som...

glad you got that worked out :) something that helped me when i was starting out was to just keep going if you dip in the puddle. it welds like shit and you should DEFINITELY not do that for a structural or critical weld, but for practicing, it gets you a lot more arc time getting that arc length co...