It's 1/8" rod, GWD. Sorry I forgot to mention that little vital bit of info. No, I didn't grind the stock to shiny, I just used a twisted cup brush in the angle grinder. It was clean but not sparkling shiny clean. No loose scale or anything on it. I think Steve may be onto something, since the...

Is your metal sparkling clean? Grind it to shining and see if that helps. Also, consider Steve's (Otto) suggestions. I'd be tempted to run it a bit hotter than what you described if it is 1/8" rod. The original post doesn't mention the size. That is vital information if the amps are to make sen...

Whaaaat?? Now it is changed again.

Are we to be treated to a new forum format each week?

You might try asking about the unit over on the Everlast Forum. That is, if you are a member.

Photos would help tremendously to understand what is going on and how to resolve it. On Jody's videos the key to vertical up seems to be to not let the middle get too hot as the weave progresses from bottom to top. Pausing at each side while hurrying across the middle to pause on the other side seem...

WTT used to be my private little forum. :mrgreen: Well, a few guests were invited. One or two topics a day, some days none. Now it has exploded to a full-fledged forum with many daily posts, moderators, and Jody giving input. Interesting change. Hopefully, the forum will stay the pleasant and helpfu...

Several things may be at work beside the paint (or other) contamination. >The rod was cold and maybe damp. As it heated and expelled the water it smoothed out. >The metal was cold and heated up to give better smoothness to the weld. Try preheating next time. >The rod was long-arched at the beginning...

Go ahead and use the 6011 on DC+. They work just fine on AC or DC. Jody (the guru) discussed the 6010 issue a bit here: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/small-inverters-220-1ph-and-celullosic-6010-rods-why-dont-they-work-together-well.html Here is a little more detailed thread: http://weldingweb....

Inverter welders have a known problem handling 6010 as you pointed out. Everlast even makes a special port for 6010 on their PowerArc series. "Can weld" doesn't mean "can weld well " in some cases. As mentioned, try another brand or two. If you can use 6011 it will likely work mu...

Hmmm...the Miller Calculator indicates that 3/16" 7018 should be run at 200 - 275A.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/ca ... ulator.php

WOW! That is awfully hot for that rod. I'd guess that the flux has burned up by the time the rod is half used.

Try to start at 100A and move up or down from there in 5A jumps if your machine has those adjustments.

If I see it correctly and understand the application, this break is not in a operational safety location. It appears that you can use a grinder to bevel both edges of the break to make a "V" for the weld deposit. Make the point of the "V" extend just barely through to the opposit...

Your English is just fine. Better than some native speakers (writers) in fact.

Wear a glove liner (light cotton) or surgical gloves under the leather.

Jody's video this week is about 6013. Give it a look for some tips (and tricks).

Jody's weekly video this week has a demo of 6013. You may find it interesting.

Sorry I am too serious to recognise the humor. Did you mean to post a link ? There should be a link to the Miller Welding Calculator, in blue, at the end of my post #6. Once at the site, choose the metal and the rod that you want to use. A page will pop up that has a lot of information on the rod y...

I don't want to mislead you on the rod selection. I was just joking with weldin mike 27 (thus the laughing emoticons). Use whatever rod you think is appropriate for the job. 6010 or 6011 may burn holes in your work in no time so 6013 may be what you want. But looking at your posted photo, 6013 may n...

Some people will probably tell you to ditch the 6013s and get something else, but with practice you can lay a beautiful general purpose bead with them. Mick Oh, and ditch the 6013s and get something else. :lol: :lol: :lol: This link may be of some guidance. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calc...

Need more information:
>rod?
>settings?
>welder?

A totally blind guess is that it is 6013 rod, run cold, that is long-arced.

Sounds like you are on the right path. Post up some more photos and keep us informed. I'm not very well acquainted with 6013 but a 45-degree stick angle seems a bit too much. However, if the guys you dealt with do it that way then follow their lead. You might try 0 to 10-degrees just to see what hap...

OK, here are some distributors in SA that can set you up with 7018. You were correct in that rod availability is very limited for some reason. 7018 does not have to be kept bone dry for non-code work. It will work just fine unless it is soaked. You can even dry it out in the oven or a large covered ...

Just to note - 6011 works very well on a DC inverter. I use a 200 amp DC inverter and use 6011 for almost every root pass on farm jobs. Then 7018 is used as the filler. Hard to believe that 6013 is the only rod available to you in S.A. It is just not a satisfactory rod for any kind of heavy metal wo...

The 6013 in the corners looks way to cold. However, 6013 does that. I've seen a video of Jody welding 6013 that leaves a gap down the middle. It has happened to me as well in the rare times that 6013 has been used. Like the others on here stated, 7014 would be your best bet for a rod for training. I...

It is critical that the generator's electronics will work with a welder. Some won't - I don't know the details but someone on the forum can fill you in. Most Honda generators work well. My 13K generator runs a welder just fine. Everlast also sells generators but I don't have experience with them. Si...