Hmmm...you could add the welder to your signature line and let others draw their own conclusion. I am guessing it begins with an "E" !!! Bet not. Their website indicates 6' leads and the manual states 5' leads. They would have immediately corrected the situation if it is the same "E&...

Hmmm...you could add the welder to your signature line and let others draw their own conclusion.

Hmmm....I haven't had much trouble cutting rusty metal and cut quite a bit of it on the farm. However and as stated, a good ground is very necessary. Find someplace where a grinder can get down to bare metal and attach the ground clamp. As far as the plasma arc goes, once it starts cutting the elect...

Absurdly expensive.

Use a full face shield in #5 shade. More room, airier, more face protection, glasses fit underneath, can flip up and out of the way, and far less cost.

A dual purpose shield is even made with a clear and a shaded face.

http://www.weldersupply.com/products.asp?id=72

In a broader view, this forum seems to reflect its creator, Jody. He seems like a great guy that has patience, is funny, and is genuinely interested in helping folks become better weldors in all disciplines. He would be a great neighbor and friend. This forum has developed just that feeling. We are ...

Wow, what a project. Both simple and complex at the same time. Nice art.

I mentioned this on another thread but check out Jody's videos on the subject.

MIG is not that much different than stick when doing vertical welding (IMHO).

Jody has some excellent videos dealing with vertical 6010 and 6011. Those videos will set you straight.

Easy to use. Good restarts.

Not to be used on critical welds.

1. Notice how close Jody's camera is to the weld (or zoomed in). It is easier to see the puddle if you are within inches of it. Close enough to smoke up the cover plate on your helmet's lens. 2. Look at the weld from the side. A stick will obscure it if you are using SMAW. If using MIG or flux-core ...

Darn, I can't understand how I missed this thread earlier. I like to chime in my admiration whenever a thread like this shows up. Jody has certainly helped to improve my welding skills and technique with his instruction. It is much appreciated. He knows how to get straight to the point and the areas...

You might be a candidate for one of the multi-machines that can do MIG, stick, and comes with a plasma cutter all built in. Everlast and others sell them. Here is a link to Everlast just because it is easy for me to find. Their prices are reasonable as well. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/multipr...

Looks like you have a natural knack for it. Others may nit-pick but it is good progress and shows puddle control.

Out of position stuff can come next.

There are a lot of excellent welders on this forum and they can give you good advice. My additional advice is to join and post the photos on WeldingWeb. They seem to have the most critical opinions anywhere and are not shy about expressing themselves. Go to the "Introduce Yourself" forum. ...

Even Jody has shown occasional trouble with 6013. A fast freeze rod like 6010 or 6011 might be the answer.

Photos of the welds would help a diagnosis by the experts on here.

Have to agree with Jim. Plasma gouging is difficult to control. Before you know it you have cut through even on low amps. It works but using it on something critical is not advised.

Plus it can be a little hard on consumables. I use worn out tips when gouging.

Another option is to get one of those small 500W halogen lights - $10 at Harbor Freight (on sale now). http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-halogen-shop-light-66433.html I found that when my eyes got old that it seemed the bright arc caused the surroundings to seem much darker. With the halogen lig...

Both kinds have advocates that swear by them. It is what ever makes you comfortable. My PA200 came with a tong type clamp (like the lower one). Your old one doesn't have much insulation around the jaws so you'll have to be especially careful not to short it while getting it into tight spots. Here in...

I agree with BlackCat. Much more needs to be known about what you want to do, what you are working on, etc. - be specific. Lots of things have been put together with AC only stick machines and stay together very well. DC is easier, smoother, and looks nicer. DC also has more rods available for speci...

Take off the tip of the torch and see if the wire will feed. You may need a new tip. Make sure the line is as straight as possible from the roller to the torch. It also could be old or dirty wire. Could be a chunk of something in the line. Try blowing out the liner with air from both directions. The...

Right you are. Dam(n). That stuff drives me nuts.

Yes, DCEN is reverse polarity. You want the heat in the work normally. Some people even pre-heat certain carbon steels (and other metals) first to make sure there is adequate penetration. Read the Miller discussion again and it will be clear why DCEN is the preferred polarity choice. There is much m...

Electron flow is always from negative to positive. Here is an explanation from Miller. It is mainly about TIG but applies to SMAW as well. Direct Current Electrode Negative (DCEN) is also sometimes called straight polarity. DCEN is used while welding steel, stainless steel, copper, titanium, gold, a...

In defense of Jody - it is not his doing. He offers this forum for free. I don't get any ads (but since Firefox is used it is hard to know if his website is self-supported or has ads). The problem is with the spammers. Write your congressperson, and while at it, write to China, Africa, and Eastern E...

It would be nice to know where you are located.

The welder is a Lincoln SA 300. The engine is a tmd27.

How many hours on the hour meter?

Photos?