65A, 1/16 2% lanthanated electrode, no filler, Everlast 250.
The port(tube) is 2-1/4" in diameter and 4" long. 0.034" stainless I guess it is type 316.
The HAZ is about 1/4".

Check the "delay" if you have this control. Try to set it to the shortest delay.

Did this tungsten ever work normally? May be it is a package of defective\fake tungstens?

The thing is - you need to bring the steel to/above critical temp, soak it for a certain time and than slowly cool down. Than you need to HT (heat treat) it again. Sand\vermiculite\whatever will let you cool down slowly. May be even slow enough. But it will miss the critical temp and soak for sure. ...

gamble wrote:what about a bucket of sand?

Sand? What for?

I welded tool steel and it is not a reliable operation. I usually preheat the piece to 600-800F at least and use the same steel for the filler. If you cannot get S7 wire - cut a strip from the sheet. Some steel decomposition\degragation in the bead is unavoidable. So the joint will be somewhat diffe...

weldin mike 27 wrote:Hey,
Too late now, but should have used boiling water to soften the glue.
Mick

+1 for boiling water

Galvanized is easy to solder and if you take a strong solder the connection will be very strong and air\water tight. If there is no ROHS limitation - use regular plumbers led based solder. If there are use led-free one. Plumber's flux works very well. And solder will not rust... To solder the steel(...

I tried to weld A2 to the substrate mild steel. It cracks all the way. A2 is air hardening steel. So once you heated it over the critical - it WILL harden to BRITTLE hard. If you want a hardface for the anvil look for a 3-4"thick piece of prehard 4140...4143. And bolt it in the blind threaded h...

Do you preheat massive pieces like those or rely on "softness" of 1018? I am just qurious as I might have a similar project to weld soon.

Another source:
Currents start at 20 A/Dm sq, which translates to 185 A/sq ft.

The Metal Finishing Magazine Guidebook & Directory gives a number of solutions. A typical one is 15% sulfuric, 63% phosphoric, remainder water, used at 80 - 175 F and 50 A / sq ft.

I found this:
Glycolic acid 55%, sulfuric acid 30%, water 15%

You need a current source(not the voltage source) and the current probably will be in 2-5A/sq.in. of treated surface. The piece connected to the positive pole. Electrode to the negative.

Thanks Jim. It is interesting.
If the piece touches something does it leave an untreated spot?

For me pulsing worked well on 0.032 stainless. It took a while to fugure out the settings and get use to it though.

I am looking for something like cleaning liquid to clean up the discoloration on stainless after welding. The places are tight and I cannot get there with the swab. Is there some kind of liquid and I can simply submerge the piece and it will clean up? The pieces are small about the size of a golfbal...

Does it have enought clearance for the tire when it is fully pushed up? In case the truck is loaded and hits some bump on a road...

My 2 cents. My Everlast 250EX has 230V power outlet on the back specificaly for the cooler. I made my cooler myself. The pump and the fan are 115v. I had to put 230\115v transformer in the cooler. The cooler is plugged in the welder and turned ON permanently. When I power up the welder the cooler tu...

You don't need it for forgewelding.

Oh, and by the way...
Good anvils have a hardened face...

Even if you put a 2" thick face on this "anvil" it will be a bad anvil. 1. There is not enough concentrated\solid mass behind the impact area. 2. It will ring like hell. Loud and not very clear. 3. The face (as is) will last you 10-15 minutes before sagging. 4. It will have no rebound...

So much work... watch out for the gear box. They like to strip the teeth wich makes the whole thing worthless. As well as the bearings on the main wheels. My personal experience...

Actually I shall not recommend ANYTHING to TS as I do not know pretty much anything about pacemakers internals or the level of EMR around the welder...

My 2 cents. Keep in mind that you need to "shield" from EMR rather than from electric potential. So the conductance is much less important than magnetic properties. As far as HF welders(all inverters) emit a very wide spectrum of EMR(electro-Magnetic Radiation) you need a shielding materia...

Cheap rockers IMO are about 22-24 gage. Good rockers would be about 18-20. When I welded mine I measured the original (Chevy Silverado) and they were somewhere between 20 and 22 gauge. So I bought 22 gauge sheet metal. Paid ~ $10 for 12sq.ft. I just cut out the patch put it on the old panel and outl...

Thanks guys. I was trying to compare feature-to-feature and found very little difference.

That's what I found:
210EXT has - wave form control, pulse type choice.
250EX has - arc force control, spot timer.

Other features - 250EX is the same or slightly better than 210EXT.