2.0 mm 6013 is what I would recommend.

That thing is tiny! like my Tooliom 135S stick welder. It will probably only put out around 120A actual measured welding current though. It should be able to run 6011, but that will dig in too much on 1.8mm wall tubing, IMO. 6013/7018/7014 would be the rods to try.

Louie1961 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 2:00 pm I get that you are experimenting for fun, but this is almost as useful as Oscar's water cooled electrode holder for stick welding.

Gdarc21 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 5:25 pm What, there is water cooled handle for stick welding, That would be gold though

There is only 1 in existence. Yes, I have it.

Seems like a decent generator based on some YouTube videos I see. Some people change the jet since they found it runs quite rich and ends up clogging up the internal mesh cone on the spark arrestor. Just something to keep in mind.

Christmas comes early. Received my Stel S300 plus a mystery box :?: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1L8TlER4ummKNrcAXfnmPmu7EOvFyux1g https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1L-78w_3Rt_7qWU7a5l724SQKoJEbBXIN Conductors are tiny! Very little amperage needed. https://drive.google...

For now, it's about all the help you can get until you post actual specific issues/problems/questions you are having/dealing with. You said you are using a 3/32" ER70S-2 filler rod, but didn't mention the thickness of the base metal. Unless you are welding 1/4" thick steel or thicker, I wo...

jarrettbailey,

the problem is the settings available on the machine aren't quite right. For example, it shows frequency only up to 25Hz. Real pulsed-spray machines start at about 40Hz, and with higher amps/WFS you end up with pulse frequencies in the 100's of Hz.

I think you can work with what you have. Get it dialed in without pulse. Then add the pulse feature. Several good YouTube videos out there to show what arc should look like. Not possible for true pulsed-spray MIG. "adding in pulse" can work with TIG, but pulsed-spray is a whole 'nother an...

First thing I seem to see is that it seems you are welding on millscale. Are you properly grinding the steel down to bare metal?

Some cheaper machines' outputs are affected by input voltage. Other than that, it comes down to the actual calibration inside the machine via all the internal parts that accounts for differences between machines. It could also just be that others' suggestions are hotter because they are more profici...

They have multiple models so that I can have the resolution I need depending how much flow I desire. They are ideal for my custom-made gas mixers.

Dakota Instruments

quadruplets!

How do these eat up steel with a cubitron fiber disc compared to say a semi hefty 13 amp corded grinder? I don't have a 13A corded grinder, so I can't say. All I can say it that they are badass. The true 12k RPMs really makes it sing! I have other "12k" air grinders, but I have a feeling ...

for single-pass, no beveling, IMO,
½" with MIG and you need about 350-400A.
½" with stick you need around 250A
½" with TIG you need about 325-350A.

So I'd say be prepared to use most if not all of that budget, for a multi-process machine. What's your brand preference?

Is your budget $120 or $5,000?

Also, what is the thickest metal you plan on welding? The duration or how often does not matter IMO, only the maximum thickness since that determines how much amperage you need.

Machine will turn fan on and then I start getting sparks and nasty sputter. Super confusing to me. Now I will say Im not use to being as clean as I need to with TIG. So I can't say for certain that I insured all mill scale has been removed. Any ideas? Without being there we can only guess that the ...

the last set of tests are much more "proper", as things were much more consistent. Awesome 2nd round of testing!

Also, the grind angles are inconsistent. In the last pic both look less than 90°, with one closer to 75°. Even in the first pic, both look acute. With amperage this low, all these seemingly hair-splitting differences play a huge role, IMO. I do salute the effort though. This is just shy of 100° htt...

Also, the grind angles are inconsistent. In the last pic both look less than 90°, with one closer to 75°. Even in the first pic, both look acute. With amperage this low, all these seemingly hair-splitting differences play a huge role, IMO. I do salute the effort though. This is just shy of 100° http...

exactly which gas lens kits on Amazon are you referring to? You can buy CK Worldwide on Amazon, so....

Based on the pictures, I feel the results are skewed. I knew this contradicted my own observations, but I couldn't tell why, initially. The arc shot with the Ceriated electrode depicts a longer arc length which will in turn affect arc stability. In my eyes, it's pretty clear to see the difference. h...

Yes, using 250A would be unusable for the actual welding [of the main joint]. But setting the machine to a lot more and using the pedal to get a puddle started with a much stronger initial 'blast' is IMO the key to getting outside corners to bridge for aluminum. From my empirical findings years and ...

Logan3232 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 30, 2021 11:41 am Amperage: set to 125.

Double this, that is the secret. (and then practicing more of course)

If we took record of all the aluminum TIG issues posted here, 9 out of 8 times the welding current is simply set way, way too low.