Oh, okay. Got some in laws and friends from ponca. But haven't really been up that way much.

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Can also see if your LWS can make you a package deal with everything you'll need. May be able to get it cheaper. And tell them you're a welding student.

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Howdy Dan. I'm over in skiatook. Grew up mostly in oologah, graduated from Collinsville, and have spent a fair amount of time in owasso. Matter of fact ate dinner at andolinis.
I wander if we've crossed paths before?
Also, which welding program are you going to?

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Clear coat paint spray. Most of it has UV blockers.
Best way is wet sanding.

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Well the way the question was asked was good.
What I took from the video, with 6010, the hydrogen gets taken care of by pre/post heating. But is that always done?

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http://youtu.be/y_LSPB6HyHo

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Yeah, he's on the "other" welding site though.
I'd give him am A for effort, but have seen some things and thought "wtf?"

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At school we did 30-35, as that was near code.

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Their latest giveaway was pretty "rad."


(See what I did there lol)

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Welcome.
I'm betting gun barrels, as in petroleum separation from salt water.

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Can't remember if that's the same stuff I ran at school, but nearly went blind and almost melted my gloves and hood off. Sheesh.
But it looks smooth.

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I was wondering the same at first, went back to look again, click on the cup, then scroll down to the description. It lists all the torches they'll fit.

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Meh, that'll buff out. Lol

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For tig I like knife edge bevel, 1/8 gap, 1/8 filler, and I was around 115-125 if I remember right. That's the way we were "taught" anyways. Also we cut our bevels about 30-35 degree. 3/32 tungsten. For root cup, imo, kinda depends on your fit up. Think a 6 was what I used. On 2" pipe...

If it's structural to the drive ability of the jeep, I wouldn't touch it. Too big of reliability issue.
Fails and someone dies, you're responsible.

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Someone else had asked not long ago.
Think the general concensus was that it would be hard to get it as precise as a real strong hand table.

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What I've read and heard since I last posted on this topic suggests that aluminum and it's alloys have too tight a molecular structure to allow water molecules in. I'm not calling that the "final word", but it's what I've been finding. Aluminum oxide, OTH, is permeable, or color-anodizing...

What I've read and heard since I last posted on this topic suggests that aluminum and it's alloys have too tight a molecular structure to allow water molecules in. I'm not calling that the "final word", but it's what I've been finding. Aluminum oxide, OTH, is permeable, or color-anodizing...

^ exactly. :smh

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Did he at least take it home with him? Lol

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Surge brakes?
Did you convert the lights and such to 12 volt?

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Woah. That is cool!

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Didn't quite see a good place, so figured this would work.
(A little late, but still needed)
Thanks to all the vets and current service members.

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Not bad though.
If you line up the seams, the rest should match, if you cut your pieces from the same section of pipe.

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The leads are actually taking the brunt of the work.
If your ground and rod lead are getting hot, it's a good sign that you need bigger cables.

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