I've used the Tig Button the last 6 months--Dynasty 350 My miller foot pedal now sits in a box. Metal man--I believe I contacted TigButton as to your prior complaint. FWIW--I've had excellent support from them. Being able to use thumb or finger pressure to ramp up and down--smoothly thru the whole c...

Help ?.....Does anyone know wich tigrod to use on alloy wheels ? Trying to repair a crack in a big alloy wheel from a bmw X5 M series. Does a 200 amp 60% dc Freetech (european version of Everlast 210 ext) has power enough ? Sidenote: the rim has no magnesium in it,as far as I know... Crack is where...

....and use a fabric or leather throat protector, attaches to bottom of helmet
to stop UV on exposed throat. There's a good bit in incidental bounce/reflection
coming off the arc, table, workpiece, etc.; which can directly or indirectly irradiate
any exposed skin.

With arc force turned off--what's the result when quickly 'blipping' amp control?

rahtreelimbs wrote:I am looking at some 2% Lanthanated tungsten. I see prices really vary. Are some better than others given all are 2% Lanthanated?

2% Lan by CK runs good on inverter, IMHO

....on open ended queries like yours--pics really help For whatever reason, you're not getting adequate shielding, probably due to the unknown joint design, with torch attitude pulling in air to the arc zone--which can relate to lack of technique. 1st rule out the usual suspects for inadequate gas c...

And your arc is right at the front of the puddle? ....No, if arc was at front--filler end would melt away. For bridging this gap, I suspect torch angle was pointed back at puddle. I use a CK flex lok torch, adjusting as needed, without wondering what the torch attitude and angle is, since I'm not in...

P6270003 12w lay rod arrow .jpg In the above pic, the filler end is melted and drawn by capillary action into the puddle--puddle's literally sucking off the rod end. Above is welding reinforcement corner gusset (1/8") to top of old 1/16" diamond plate toolbox. Once the puddle is establish...

Excellent write-up, interesting and very much appreciated. :) I see your reference to the "skin effect" of AC current concentrating near the surface of a conductor. That's a topic I've not considered with aluminum tig and how it may affect the tungsten - I will definitely have to explore ...

Excellent write-up, interesting and very much appreciated. :) I see your reference to the "skin effect" of AC current concentrating near the surface of a conductor. That's a topic I've not considered with aluminum tig and how it may affect the tungsten - I will definitely have to explore t...

Balance I'm guessing about70%. my machine only has a cleaning/penetration adjustment1-10. gas flow 15-20 cup size 6-8 depending on space. stick out is not much and yes blueshield 2 is He/Ar mix. And the tungsten are green grounded. [/color] Tapered point with slight blunt on electrode, Lanthiated 2...

Balance I'm guessing about70%. my machine only has a cleaning/penetration adjustment1-10. gas flow 15-20 cup size 6-8 depending on space. stick out is not much and yes blueshield 2 is He/Ar mix. And the tungsten are green grounded. [/color] Tapered point with slight blunt on electrode, Lanthiated 2...

Hi all, I'm looking to add an oxygen sensor to a 1970s cast iron exhaust manifold and would like to build up some thickness for machining . Considering thermal expansion differences, would it be prudent to use either silicon bronze or aluminum bronze for tig brazing? Thanks in advance. Chris ...so-...

Save yourself a headache and put the sensor in the pipe. Amen to the above. Additionally, a 37 year old +, CI manifold just may not accept any form of welding, depending on how much oxidation and 'cooking' it's already seen--which 'isn't any big deal' if one's never dealt with grainy, degraded CI m...

With tubing the inside needs to be clean for at least 1/2". Blow out tube lengths, wet wipe
sand/brush the cut ends clean, clean inside throat, check for any oil inside tubing and swab it
out if present.

....umm....308H designates high carbon content--exactly what you don't need or want. Wherever/whoever did you get this erroneous advice from? 308 L designates low or restricted carbon content--exactly what you need and want Pesky lettle details like one letter in a nomenclature DO count for something.

2024 has copper as one of the alloying elements. When welded, the copper precipitates out, changing to material properties. While you can weld it, the corrosion resistance and crack resistance and most likely the tensile strength will all be negatively impacted. Amen. The experience I had with TIG ...

2024 is basically....NOT WELDABLE, per Alcotech, etc.....and the personal experience
of your's truly and a host of others.

It's called the devil's eye. Guys doing a root pass will be looking for and wanting to see its presence.
Despite what others may think, I suspect it's contaminants and de-oxidizers from the filler rod,
floating up to and concentrating on the top of the balled puddle.

What was the criteria specified for these butt welds?

Full pen.?

Partial pen.?

Any WPS written by or furnished to the company doing the welding?

Any setup/test coupons required before production?

Any post weld inspection criteria?

nelson wrote:Maybe (ha ) I'm an idiot. That weld looks great but the color of it does not. Am I missing something?

That's a normal and great looking weld bead for anodized.
The bead looks that way from the anodized skin floating on top of the puddle.

Presumably the OP is bump welding this anodized, which means repetative, arc on, arc off.
Needs a really good ground, still needs to clean the table.

Warrenh wrote:That is my unferstanding, too. I cant see an arc to a piece of metal not in the circuit and not grounded. These pieces are in a wood table.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Why not wipe the wood table clean of the swarf before starting?
(that's kinda of given thing to do-anyway).

Poland308 wrote:I would pick tig over mig for any build up work.

Amen to using TIG, unless one wants to create even more work in the finishing after,
plus have a half azzed overlay coverage. 4 x 4 forums tend to give and show the worst
welding efforts.

I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler... the front caliper brackets have some pretty bad wear areas on them where the brake pads and calipers slide against the brackets. The wear is approximately 1/16 to 3/32 inch deep. From what I am reading online, the brackets are forged steel. .. I'm looking for recommen...