xwrench wrote:Color me green with envy. Seriously, that's awesome. Post lots of pics.
Cheers.
-Eldon

Ditto what ^ he said

Y'know, my old-school #10 glass lens has NEVER flashed me unexpectedly... Technology has value, but it comes with trade-offs. Steve S My old standby....that is the shield I keep handy...no dead batteries, no electronics to get messed up. Auto darkening shields are nice though for tacking and weldin...

today's practice... quote] Looking good! You seem to have found the "feel", and it's just practice from here to make it look how you want it to look. I'd suggest practicing adding more filler, so you lose the sharp edge at the top I agree, it looks like it is slightly under filled, adding...

Check your post-flow settting. The pimple trying to pop up at the end of the welds is porosity from white-hot steel coming in contact with oxygen in the air. make sure you try to hold a arc length equal to the tungsten diameter and hold the torch there for a few seconds after extinguishing the arc....

weldin mike 27 wrote:Saves on shoes.

LOL...you guys are crazy

Question about the ceramic backing.... Do you ever have any trouble with porosity when using ceramic backing? I ask because we used it a lot but I was always questioning the way they stored the stuff and if it was picking up moisture or not. We had random bouts with porosity and I blamed it on the b...

If you got arc flash it would feel like you had rubbed sand into your eyes. But the failure of the hood to darken is just like looking at a bright light. Or staring at a flashlight etc. Not actual arc flash. I agree.... the more expensive shields have more than one or two sensors that help in low l...

Just seeing spots after welding is not flash burn....that is an over exposure to the yellow frequency light waves, like when Oxy/fuel cutting without a dark enough shade lens. Some of my guys would see spots when O/F cutting and using a #3 shade, moved up to the #5 and the spots went away. Their eye...

You're getting it....something else that helps is to keep a tight fit between the plates, clamp them down tight, if need be.

If I can offer an insight to the facebook page. I made it, with permission, ages ago as away to post pictures when the forum had an (almost impossible) upload limit. It was almost dormant for a long time, almost 12 months with only 100 members. The new invigorated forum ditched the upload limit, so...

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af325/4cyllx/DSCF5454_zps8549f236.jpg Have you had a chance to weld with this wire anymore? Just curious if you were able to get it sorted out. Try this: Turn the voltage all the way up, Wire feed speed set at about half way, Hold the gun 90° to the work with 3/8...

Welding Bear wrote:add passes next to each other as opposed to on top of each other?

Well, not exactly...maybe a pic will help.

Ps, one more thing i'm interested in..... Why do more than one ''pass''? If you are asking about fillet welds, then the answer is...a fillet weld is measured but the length of the legs and then the throat. If a drawing calls for a 5/8" fillet weld, you obviously cannot put that down in one pas...

How close?...far enough away to keep from melting the front of your shield, while keeping your head out of the plume of fumes.

Welcome, Marten Site! It took me a minute, but do you have a cousin named Austin Knight? I love clever screen names. I like the general design of the table you posted. I'd personally follow the original design, with the addition of stiff-backs on the 1/2" plate. 2" by 1/4" flat stock...

A couple of years ago I put in a http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hot-Dawg-125-000-BTU-Natural-Gas-Garage-Ceiling-Heater-HD125A/202812652 heater in the garage. It doesn't take that much gas to bring the garage up to a balmy 50 degrees for a couple of hours at a time. Every time I go out in the garage in ...

I've simplified it. I just say, "I'm a code welder." Either you know what I mean, and ask which code, or you have no idea what I mean and ask me to explain. Either way, conversation started. And it's much easier than explaining what I actually do so someone who may not be interested. Stev...

Congrats!

Thanks guys....found out late yesterday(rig due on the job this morning) that the Electric Co is going to let the drill guys use their(electric co's) grounding clamps/cables/etc for the few holes that they need to drill. Apparently there is a fairly tight grounding grid buried 2 feet or so under the...

I'm going to agree with welding mike.....aluminum can be welded with the welder you mentioned but it will need to be preheated just prior to welding to make the machine feel larger than it is(some grades of aluminum will not be happy with the extra heat). You really do need the extra amperage capaci...

Welding Bear wrote:Thanks for that mate. However, that is for ''EN'' gasless models only (i had a good read through the book before i went out also lol) not the TE models

Ahhh, OK...wrong model. Shucks.

Hey David, If you can post pics of your attemps...it really helps us see what results you are getting....sometimes welding terminology gets confusing and when there is a pic, we can stay on the same page when offering advice. Also posting machine settings and filler metal information off the roll/sp...

Here^^ is a snap shot out of the clark manual about where the polarity can be changed.

Evening chaps, hope you're well. Got home from work and popped out to the garage to check polarity on the machine as part of my trouble shooting process.... Simply put, you can't change it! lol I've seen on loads of machines where you simply undo the nuts and swap from - to + and vice versa. But lo...

http://www.inweldcorporation.com/datasheets/ER70S-6.pdf Well, their data sheet is pretty worthless for someone trying to use their product. There are no suggested welding parameters listed at all. Maybe see if you can email them from their website and ask for this info. Meanwhile keep posting pics o...