Coldman wrote:....but I gotta tell you I'm glad that thing's in Florida and I'm down under.

Something about these things I don't know about?

What size breaker is it on Tom?

Finally, a project for me!

My version of an Alaskan chain saw mill. Decided to incorporate some delrin guides for stability, given the diameter logs being cut. Very pleased how it performed, though a ripping chain I'm sure would've sped things up a bit. Sorry for the pic quality.

Thanks for the replies guys. Steve, I can tell you the wires coming out of the breaker are fine...had the cover off minutes before I started this thread to check my wire size and everything looked good in the box. As soon as I have some time, I'll drag the machine out and check everything else. I ex...

Looking for a little knowledge on breaker sizing. As title says, machine is a synchrowave 350 LX. Being home based, I'm limited to 230V service. I'm assuming it's 230 as my multi-meter reads 240/242 range. I replaced the run years ago, which I'm 95% sure is now #6 wire...if anything else it's #4, no...

melsdad wrote:So how hot does a 250 amp water cooled torch get? I'm guessing 400° is plenty.

That end of the torch, I'd be surprised if it saw half that.
Different story on the business end.

Side grinder and a Rigid pipe threading machine would make quick work of those. Could even modify some old thread dies to cut the bevels if you have a lot of them. Grinding wheel dust no doubt is a hated thing, no to mention the hazards of SS particulate.

Weld settings: 60-350 hertz. Doesn't really matter... I get tired of the same sound so I change it around. Just make sure your puddle isn't shaking around a lot. One time I had it at 145 hz and it did not like that for some reason... The puddle was shaking all over the place. I changed it a few HZ ...

Aaron@6061.com wrote:Sheet metal throttle body adapters:

...weld porn at it's finest.

Gorgeous stuff Aaron.

Brisbane I believe.

Haha...that's too big of a title for me to be associated with.

Hey, that is some NICE stuff, dunk! And BGH, the hot tack corners are a great idea, too. I think I might give that a shot next time and report back. Really appreciate the help and support, guys. Kym Thanks Kym. Actually have a couple things boxed up right now fixing to head down to your neck of the...

Here you go Kym:

If you don't have something similar already, add these to your favorites:
http://e.ridersdiscount.com/forum/motoholders/
http://www.tightails.com/

Plenty of ideas and inspiration for this kind of stuff.

Firstly...despite the welds holding up well, should I be using 'T' series 6000 for an application like this? I'm a newbie at this sort of thing, this is my first 'critical' welding and of course I want to be safe. Kym Hey Kym, Using something like a 6061 T6 will certainly help with strength, but do...

I'm seeing more than 1 reference to the Zirconium. How does it outshine the pure?

And Kiwi, the white vs brown....one of those "they don't make it like they used to" things?

So it's been a while since I've used any pure tungsten on AL...I've really liked the much higher amp carrying abilities of the ceriated and 2% lanthanated and the fact that I can usually run a narrower, focused bead given the same amps. BUT, with much disgust with some of my work the past few days, ...

MinnesotaDave wrote:I agree with circular saw and I also use a table saw and jig saw.

Make darn sure your fence is straight on a table saw and wear glasses and face shield - those little shards are sharp!

...and HOT! Forgot to mention full body armor....

.....all of them have had this texture almost like someone threw sand in the molten metal. I too have fought this exact issue for quite some time now. Let me first say I am no full time AL tig welder...more weekend warrior type. But what I have noticed is the faster I can get in, puddle, and go, th...

Me, I'd go 56. I have no experience with the 4943, and it very well may be stronger.
5356 is tried and trued on 5052.
Decisions like this I tend to go with what I know vs. what I don't, regardless of word out there.

Bill Beauregard wrote: I suspect it might be about moisture content, and electrolytes.

interesting...op does consume a lot of gatorade.

^^ yep, my machine has one...but have no idea what's considered a low setting. It's at 25 now.

Disconnect ground from battery and hook ground up close as possible to where you're welding. Idea is to keep weld current out of any sensitive components. Just tig'd up some rust holes in the rain gutters on my truck...fuel injected, ecu, yadee yada. No issues at all. If needed, weld on a temporary ...

@exnail: Short of renting one, my machine is my only option right now. @Bill: Hard to say for sure really, but I tend to believe tungsten since most hits are where glove and filler meet. @Craig: No, no other torches to try here at the moment. And no known problems with shop electrical either...wish ...

Bill, think I mislead you there. Arc length is always kept short and never directed at filler...well aware that the puddle melts the filler, not the arc. My point was that the filler can be 3/4 to 1 inch away while on approach to the puddle for the 1st dab and wham, I get tagged. No visible arc of a...