dunkster wrote:Can't say it's never happened in the middle of a weld....

ok, scratch that one. just got nailed 3/4 of the way thru a bead.

Haven't done a visual insp of them yet, but I have owned this machine since brand new and it's done far more sitting over the past 14 years than been used. My best liberal guess is 200 hours max on the clock. And nothing over 200 amps...yes, I over bought. :banghead:

Puddle.

Granted, I have melted rod before it's reached puddle before due to bad positioning or whatever, but haven't been zapped from it.

Can't say it's never happened in the middle of a weld, but can say for fact that it usually happens while filler rod is on approach for it's 1st dab, and that's literally in the approach, contact not yet made with puddle/work. This is why I suspect it's the HF, but why it's jumping to the filler whe...

I'd try going to a dead sharp point, esp doing thin stuff on DC-. Only time I leave a small flat is for AC'ing alum, which ends up balling itself as needed. Short arc length is also more critical the thinner you go. my .02.

Bill Beauregard wrote: For some reason you are more attractive than your work.

Time to hang it up if this is the case...... .

No but seriously, all body parts are well away from the tungsten. As mentioned, it's tungsten to filler rod, rod thru glove and then thru me.

Thanks everybody...a lot of interesting ideas put forward. Before today, ground clamp was just thrown over a 3/4" round handled lock lever for adjusting table height, which was probably just a few scant points of contact. Just did a couple 1" joints today and made sure that ground was good...

Can anyone out there please explain to me why I get continually get eff'n zapped while AC'ing aluminum? It happens sporadically for no rhyme or reason...sweaty hands, dry hands, high humidity, low humidity, doesn't matter. Gloves I'm using are Tillman tig, both goat and deer skin. It usually happens...

Thanks Josh. Just looked on the backside and that number is 004543...I have no idea what that is.

Any hint on whether this is S-2 or S-6? Or something else?

Recently I was given some filler rod, probably the 3rd or 4th recipient now of this so who knows where it came from. Anyway, some of it is what looks like your basic copper colored ER70-S2 or S6, except it's marked with"XFR106T", along with what most likely the run lot # on the backside of...

Careful Dunk, You'll turn him into a "fabricator" which means he'll need a bigger shed and more toy's er tools. He's crying poor as it is :D Nice work on those brackets. Another way to skin a cat. Thanks for the props Pete. Yeah, just trying to get someone else to experience my pain....mu...

Hey Kym, if parameters allow for it, you can play with design a bit for a simpler joint.
Here's a couple of my approaches...fwiw:

Something I've noticed with practicing tube joints, at least for me, is the smaller of diameter you can practice on the better. With smaller tube, you're having to really stay on top of keeping all your torch/rod angles right with relation to distance traveled...much higher articulating rate is what...

No harm Kym...definitely not trying to steer you into taking short cuts, just sharing thoughts and options.

After thinking about those cans, I'd tend to believe the main chunk of it would be 304, given it started life out as a sheet...but who knows.

Good luck with it and post up result pics.

Hey Kym, FWIW, back when my 06 CBR1K was new (w/ stock exh) it had this annoying "tick" coming from the exhaust after shut down. Figuring it was a joint somewhere contracting back from cooling, I found suspect joint and buzzed it up solid....no more tick :D . Anyway point being, I believe ...

OP: Got milk?

Supposedly drinking lots of milk will help thwart off any stomach issues after breathing too much of that $h!t.
Of course steps should be taken to avoid inhalation in the first place. A side grinder is your friend.

exnailpounder wrote: Gonna take off on the bike next week and do the Dragons Tail in Deals Gap North Carolina before I get back "in the habit".

Ohhh, we definitely like this!

Be sure to watch out for any big rigs trying to squeeze thru there.

Was there any kind of vent hole for the tube to "breathe" with the expansion/contraction of the air inside? Almost sounds like it sealed up after the 1st blow out, cooled, creating enough of a vacuum to suck it in upon your 2nd attempt. Know it's a stretch, but seen stranger things happen....

Nice work Bill.

Some of the most fun I've had metalworking was making pattern welded Damascus with my dad for his knife making venture. His favorite I think though was hand forging blades...just a simple forge, hammer, & anvil. Miss them days.

Welcome Bruce. As mentioned, lots of friendly help here...and no such thing as "too stupid" of a question.

I'm about an hour north up the interstate from you.
-Jr.

big gear head wrote: This weld was around 1/8 inch wide and 18 feet long.

...nothing like a little seat time.



Repaired a swingarm off a Suzuki RM 500...oldschool, '83-'84'ish.
...then padded some beads since it was fired up.

If you are running a miller Syncrowave 250, the balance is set at 3 during DC welding. Dave- I'm running a SW350 here and has always been my understanding that AC balance is a moot adjustment when it comes to DC GTAW, but does become a dig function in stick mode. Am I misinterpreting here or have I...

Appreciate everyones input...now I'll have a little peace of mind when I tackle it in a couple weeks.

Rick

What went wrong in the cooler? I've had mine apart several times for pump rebuilds....trying to wrap my head around what could've gone bad requiring a new unit. This was the tigrunner, correct?

Got a little project coming up involving the welding of wheelie bar brackets on to a rearend. The rearend will be in the car, full (2 qts I believe) of lube and has a vent, as well as a fill cap that can be removed if needed. I want to say I've done this years ago with the install of a 4 link and ha...