Executed! After talking to a Miller rep and being assured that the factory 24V circuit for the torch solenoid had plenty of oomph for a 2nd one, I ordered one in and got it installed a couple weeks ago. Just got around to using it today and I couldn't be happier with it. While it's great not dealing...

One thing I'd try first is to use a larger cup and some higher CFH. That material looks pretty "shagged out" to begin with, so some amount of discoloration is inevitable. Have you considered using Silicon Bronze wire? That looks to be a rust repair patch panel. I have great success with S...

i was wondering if that may to low of amps and not enough travel speed. sitting around to long pushing filler in. Thing to remember is I'm finishing both sides off, so having any "lows", on either side, is not acceptable. I'd rather have them a touch too proud than not enough. And smalles...

My preflow is never any more than about a second and post is just long enough to cool the tungsten. If I ever need more post on the cool down, I'll stab the pedal a time or two. Width wise, those should be no more than an 1/8". I do plan to experiment with tungsten grinds to see if the puddle c...

i would not do a solenoid valve. simply because you want it to run before you start to weld and a bit after. the other thing to look at is if a chill block would achieve the same thing. i use it now and then if i can get a nice tight fit. very handy for doing flat sheet. My thinking is that if powe...

I’ve never purged mild steel. I’ve also not encountered “scale” on the backside of a weld to be an issue, stainless, CroMo, Ti, you bet I’d purge those. Are you cleaning the material properly on both sides? Are you running too much heat? I’m just asking because I don’t understand the circumstances ...

Been doing a lot of sheet metal (.030/.035 mild steel) butt welds and soon found out that back purging is your friend, especially if you're finishing the back side. If not B/P'd, the scale and suck back can leave a real mess. I should mention this isn't the typical scenario where a closed off chambe...

Sorry guys, been a while I know...life has a bad habit of doing that. At any rate, I've since picked up some 1/16" AlBr filler. And as always, my results on scrap resembled absolutely nothing like what shows in Jody's videos. So onto next option. I got to thinking about cj737's comment on "...

Doing a little resto on a mower deck here. Needing to weld in two of these shield gizzy's, front and rear: DSCN0984.JPG Deck itself is around .060/.070 thick and shields are .075 thick. Came close to burning them in today w/ some ER70 till I thought about what the back side (top of deck) will look l...

You can also try 409 cleaner...it has a mild etchant in it. Bottle says don't use on AL, but I use it to clean machined parts.

Now see what it's look like if you did that one little section the whole way....lol.
(I'm still trying to do that)

Super nice consistency on the coolers there Sam!....inverter or transformer machine?

Nice TI work as well....jealous.

BigD wrote:Still waiting on the 4943 so I just refilled it with 4043

Thanks.

Was it you're conclusion that 4943 is best for cooling system components or is 4043 acceptable as well?

Yeah, I got a hold of an aluminum expert from a very respectable company but I've been waiting for his express permission before I share his words verbatim. But to paraphrase, he said it takes hundreds and possibly thousands of hours of exposure to stress in a corrosive environment and high heat be...

Steve, Craig, Keith and Ryan, thank you gents. Thankfully this did not require pics from both sides of the can :oops: . I am thoroughly convinced that the thickness varies in this area of the bottom as you go around it. Some places it just up and vaporizes away. Anyone else notice that? Think this w...

yeah, hopefully he stumbles across this

OK, not trying to jack this thread, but since discussion involves cooling system components I figured this could possibly help the OP out as well. (thanks Big D, you may have saved me some hassle) Got this thing here tacked up and ready to weld. DSCN0862.JPG Tee fitting there I made from 6061 t-6 an...

ok, I'll play


....since my sh!t is starting to look somewhat presentable.

exnailpounder wrote: NO 3 phase in my shop...dammit...

that's what VFD's are for!

You could also make up a tube sleeve, say 6 or 8 inches long, with an OD sized to just slip into both pieces to be welded. It would be burned into during welding and be permanent, much like a chill ring in a pipe joint....as well as adding strength which is a good thing since temper will be lost.

Yep, definitely too cold, without a preheat anyway. Curious to what others say, but I'm thinking 250 amps with a stone cold joint temp. And balling of your filler will only get worse with higher amps, especially if your torch angle isn't perfect. Don't get me wrong, 1/16 could be used, but 3/32 will...

I'm 6'3" and from what I remember a full size BP sitting on the floor (doing mostly low profile, in the vise work) was fine for me, however that might be a different story today now that I'm older and blinder. The 1st shot is of a 2/3 - 3/4 size machine similar to what I'll be getting and I ant...

I also have about a 20 degree inclined 20 ft driveway and... 20 degrees? I'd definitely have a lift lined up, unless you have a small army on hand. The sidewalk portion is a 6 degree incline and the drive way is about 4.20. Now 4.2 degrees, that's only about a 7 inch rise in 8 feet. Totally do-able...

....or perhaps even make a fuel cell and use the original tank 'skin' over the top of it. Although that feels like cheating. Kym Now where's the fun in that! :lol: Besides, this is all about shedding the kg's, not adding them. BTW, I'm thinking a thickness anywhere from 2mm to .090" would be g...

One must always consider the wire running from the breaker to the outlet....both the gage size and how long the run is. Nothing good will come from too big a breaker coupled with too small of wire. Lots of info out there.

Lol, got it. I guess one could see it that way. No the bar was clamped using two 1/2" bolts at each clamp, so that wasn't going anywhere. The weld clamp you see was put on to use as a handle so the guides had even load, otherwise it would bind up. And cut was being made on the back cut side of ...