New old fart here and was looking for an intro area like most forums have but don't see one. Maybe make a "New Member Intro" or "New Members Sign In" sub-forum. Put up a sticky with, "Tell us a little about yourself. How did you find us, are you experienced or new to the game? Where do you hang your hat at night?"...
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
If this section gets the nod, can we add a stipulation that, if you ask for help or advice, and get it, that you return and let us know how you went. Sometimes I go to great effort to help people, just to have them never return.
Mick.
If this section gets the nod, can we add a stipulation that, if you ask for help or advice, and get it, that you return and let us know how you went. Sometimes I go to great effort to help people, just to have them never return.
Mick.
I couldn't agree more Mike. Some of the M/C forums I'm on people go to great lengths to help someone out, (usually a newbie), and NEVER hear from them again.weldin mike 27 wrote:Hey,
If this section gets the nod, can we add a stipulation that, if you ask for help or advice, and get it, that you return and let us know how you went. Sometimes I go to great effort to help people, just to have them never return.
Mick.
That really doesn't set well with me...Anymore if a new guy doesn't (or won't) make a introduction I don't reply when they come asking for help.Another big no-no is the guy that joins just to put something up "for sale" on the site. Most of the sites I'm a member of now require 10-30 posts before you can post something in the "classified" section. By doing this they have greatly cut down on the scammers trying to rip people off, (just thinking out loud here Jody).
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
- weldin mike 27
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Hey mate,
Sounds like you have done this kind of stuff before. Thanks for the Second.
Mick
Sounds like you have done this kind of stuff before. Thanks for the Second.
Mick
KP161
- KP161
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newbie here as well.....Fat Bob wrote: Some of the M/C forums I'm on
hey Fat Bob, would that happen to be either Club Chopper or v-twin?? (me thinks C-C for sure)
I'm on those and another....they do seem to go hand-in-hand, building and welding
loggerboot85
- loggerboot85
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loggerboot85 here,
I am a "newbie" to welding. I have been welding off and on for twenty years, mostly SMAW and a little GMAW. BUT, never had any formal instruction. Presently, working on certification through our local tech school here in central PA and really like it a bunch.
I am always up for learning something new from the folks that have professional experience.
Looking forward to good info and new ideas, thanks!
I am a "newbie" to welding. I have been welding off and on for twenty years, mostly SMAW and a little GMAW. BUT, never had any formal instruction. Presently, working on certification through our local tech school here in central PA and really like it a bunch.
I am always up for learning something new from the folks that have professional experience.
Looking forward to good info and new ideas, thanks!
What's this Club Chopper you speak ofKP161 wrote:hey Fat Bob, would that happen to be either Club Chopper or v-twin??Fat Bob wrote: Some of the M/C forums I'm on
Just kidding KP161, yea it's me, how are things up North?
You're right about building/modding bikes and welding going hand-in-hand. I decided to learn a few years ago to do my own work instead of bugging my friends to stick something together for me. 
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
- weldin mike 27
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Welcome to both the Newbos.
Good to have you guys , To the custom bikers, This i an area we havent covered yet on the forum.. more topics we can cram in the better I say.
Mick
Good to have you guys , To the custom bikers, This i an area we havent covered yet on the forum.. more topics we can cram in the better I say.
Mick
- Otto Nobedder
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Welcome! Where in central PA? Harrisburg? State College? I worked a couple contracts near Lancaster for a great outfit out of Mt. Joy, called Herr & Sacco.loggerboot85 wrote:loggerboot85 here,
I am a "newbie" to welding. I have been welding off and on for twenty years, mostly SMAW and a little GMAW. BUT, never had any formal instruction. Presently, working on certification through our local tech school here in central PA and really like it a bunch.
I am always up for learning something new from the folks that have professional experience.
Looking forward to good info and new ideas, thanks!
Steve S
KP161
- KP161
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Fat Bob wrote:What's this Club Chopper you speak ofKP161 wrote:hey Fat Bob, would that happen to be either Club Chopper or v-twin??Fat Bob wrote: Some of the M/C forums I'm on
Just kidding KP161, yea it's me, how are things up North?
the weather is probably about the same as in Colorado, damn winter lol.
my build is at a stand-still for now, working on getting the garage re-framed to strengthen it up (and need a large replenishment of funds...it is NOT a cheap hobby lol)....but once the warmer weather comes i can get the 230v run out there and start learning how to mig
i did some "bronzing/brazing" and some stick a # of years ago but me thinks it's gonna be a whole new world of learning, which is why i'm here...suck up as much info as i can before even laying wire to metal.
I have a 2 month old brand new Lincoln 180 dual and a full tank of gas just itching for a first run
good call on a newbie section....let's the guys that have been here a while know who they're dealing with and their level (or lack thereof) experience
You can always send that Lincoln my way. I'll keep the dust cleaned out of it for you. 
Hang in there on the shop (garage) work. When I built mine (by myself) it took several months to complete but having an insulated heated (wood stove) place in the winter makes it all worth it.
Now if I could just get wood to cut and split itself...
Hang in there on the shop (garage) work. When I built mine (by myself) it took several months to complete but having an insulated heated (wood stove) place in the winter makes it all worth it.
Now if I could just get wood to cut and split itself...
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
- Otto Nobedder
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That's why wood is such efficient heat... It warms you three times.
Cutting it, splitting it, and burning it.
Almost forgot-- emptying the ashes!
Gas and electric only do it twice. Warm when you use it, HOT when you get the bill...
Cutting it, splitting it, and burning it.
Almost forgot-- emptying the ashes!
Gas and electric only do it twice. Warm when you use it, HOT when you get the bill...
Four times today. Heading out to cut some BIG trees, my 32" saw won't reach across them and "loading" them is going to be a real PITA...not looking forward to this day. Wish I had a Bobcat...Otto Nobedder wrote:... It warms you three times.
Cutting it, splitting it, and burning it.
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
Thanks! Man I hate to say it but "I hope we get it good". It's been way to dry here this winter.KP161 wrote:i heard you guys are gonna get hit pretty bad....stay safe!!!
They're getting it good right now in Denver but hasn't started here yet, (I'm in Pueblo about 100 miles south). Just WIND and clouds.Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
Hey welders! I'm a noob to the forum. I've been visiting WTT for around a year, maybe a little less, and really enjoy Jody's videos. They have helped me a lot with learning TIG welding.
I am building a motorcycle frame now, a Harley chopper frame type. It's the second frame for me. The first one I welded up with a MIG, a Lincoln 155, but for the second one I wanted to TIG weld it. I bought a Miller Syncrowave 200 a few years ago and after moving across the country, finally got my shop set up again and started practicing. For the frame I'm using 1.25" .120 wall CREW round tube which is not DOM or cromo, just mild steel. I have a JD2 bender and I've been using a tube mitre program to make patterns for cutting the copes. Anyway, welding round tube with coped fit ups at angles less than 90 degrees are difficult for me with the TIG and I would love to see some topics on this kind of thing, or videos from the master! I have really liked the bicycle frame vids and I have found some other videos where Jody has discussed this type of welding of coped round tube jobs.
I am building a motorcycle frame now, a Harley chopper frame type. It's the second frame for me. The first one I welded up with a MIG, a Lincoln 155, but for the second one I wanted to TIG weld it. I bought a Miller Syncrowave 200 a few years ago and after moving across the country, finally got my shop set up again and started practicing. For the frame I'm using 1.25" .120 wall CREW round tube which is not DOM or cromo, just mild steel. I have a JD2 bender and I've been using a tube mitre program to make patterns for cutting the copes. Anyway, welding round tube with coped fit ups at angles less than 90 degrees are difficult for me with the TIG and I would love to see some topics on this kind of thing, or videos from the master! I have really liked the bicycle frame vids and I have found some other videos where Jody has discussed this type of welding of coped round tube jobs.
weldin mike 27 wrote:Welcome to both the Newbos.
Good to have you guys , To the custom bikers, This i an area we havent covered yet on the forum.. more topics we can cram in the better I say.
Mick
- Frame tubing bent and coped in jig fixture
- IMG-20130218-01027.jpg (111.68 KiB) Viewed 3323 times
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
Welcome to the forum, All jodys' videos are in the video archive of the main site as well as youtube,
Mick
Welcome to the forum, All jodys' videos are in the video archive of the main site as well as youtube,
Mick
Welcome cyclhed! Always good to have someone with shared interests around.
"welding round tube with coped fit ups at angles less than 90 degrees are difficult" One way to "get in there" that works well is to build an aluminium foil argon dam behind the area your welding so you can extend your tungsten enough to reach the joint. That and I use a #4 or #5 cup with 3/32 electrode. <read, think cheap, small and steal the Ole' Lady's tin foil> Just don't wrap the foil to tight against the weld joint, leave kind of a bowl to hold the gas...tin foil vaporizes really fast with a tig arc, don't ask how I know. 
Another option would be to use a gas lens but I don't have one for my torch, maybe some day...I want to try one of these; http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-Pyrex-Cups-Kits-s/67.htm
It looks like your frame is coming along nicely. What "Grade" CREW are you using for your frame, 1018, 1020? DOM is over rated and $$$ for a bike frame IMHO.
"welding round tube with coped fit ups at angles less than 90 degrees are difficult" One way to "get in there" that works well is to build an aluminium foil argon dam behind the area your welding so you can extend your tungsten enough to reach the joint. That and I use a #4 or #5 cup with 3/32 electrode. <read, think cheap, small and steal the Ole' Lady's tin foil>
Just don't wrap the foil to tight against the weld joint, leave kind of a bowl to hold the gas...tin foil vaporizes really fast with a tig arc, don't ask how I know. Another option would be to use a gas lens but I don't have one for my torch, maybe some day...I want to try one of these; http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-Pyrex-Cups-Kits-s/67.htmIt looks like your frame is coming along nicely. What "Grade" CREW are you using for your frame, 1018, 1020? DOM is over rated and $$$ for a bike frame IMHO.
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
Thanks Fat Bob. One of my favorite videos is this one where Jody shows the tin foil method: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-4130.html
I know the video is for 4130, but the joints are what I'm focusing on there.
I've been practicing on some 40 degree joints. Yesterday I tried a 1/16 electrode, #7 cup, 140A, 15CFH, 1.3 PPS with both 5/32 and 1/16 ER70S2 filler rods. I worked pretty good and I got a fairly decent looking weld. The 1/16 rod had some undercut. The problem with these joints is the different type joints around the tube so I need to adjust for that. That seems to be where I'm either too hot or not hot enough. I think the key is to adjust properly for the different conditions when I get to them.
The tubing I have is probably 1018, but I don't know for sure. I bought it 8 or 9 years ago in Atlanta when I lived there.
I know the video is for 4130, but the joints are what I'm focusing on there.
I've been practicing on some 40 degree joints. Yesterday I tried a 1/16 electrode, #7 cup, 140A, 15CFH, 1.3 PPS with both 5/32 and 1/16 ER70S2 filler rods. I worked pretty good and I got a fairly decent looking weld. The 1/16 rod had some undercut. The problem with these joints is the different type joints around the tube so I need to adjust for that. That seems to be where I'm either too hot or not hot enough. I think the key is to adjust properly for the different conditions when I get to them.
The tubing I have is probably 1018, but I don't know for sure. I bought it 8 or 9 years ago in Atlanta when I lived there.
Hey cyclhed,
How you doing on the frame build? Motor and tranny mounting plates in yet?
When I did mine I did it at a buddies machine shop. He has all the benders, welders and adjustable jigs a guy could ever hope for.
He was the one that taught me the foil trick originally...just wish I had remembered to take pictures at the stage you are. It was raining when I was ready to bring it home (110 miles South of Denver) so gave it a shot of black rattle paint to keep the rust off. It's come a long way since then but still not done,,, are they ever "done"? 
How it looked a week latter after getting it home ...
Like you said, a 1/6 electrode is a little to small for the wall thickness and amps required to build a bike frame. As I recall we were using a 3/32...
How you doing on the frame build? Motor and tranny mounting plates in yet?
When I did mine I did it at a buddies machine shop. He has all the benders, welders and adjustable jigs a guy could ever hope for.
He was the one that taught me the foil trick originally...just wish I had remembered to take pictures at the stage you are. It was raining when I was ready to bring it home (110 miles South of Denver) so gave it a shot of black rattle paint to keep the rust off. It's come a long way since then but still not done,,, are they ever "done"? How it looked a week latter after getting it home ...
Like you said, a 1/6 electrode is a little to small for the wall thickness and amps required to build a bike frame. As I recall we were using a 3/32...
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.