[BoomerangJ]

I bought this torch used when I was 16. It's 43+ years old. I've had it all of these years and just unpacked it to take a look at it. I loved using it back in the day and it did everything i wanted it to do. My intent was to look at it and buy new-but when I had it back in my hands I realized that it was US made and it just feels like a good tool.

I'm considering restoring it. Looking for advice on the right way to do this. I searched the Smith's site and found that a local welding supply in Austin is a Service Center. I called them and they were excited about it and told me sticking with a vintage torch like this was the way to go-BUT I would bring it to them and then it gets sent to Dallas! Yikes!

I looked on line and there are re-build kits that range in price from $15-$25.00. There are also warnings about having a qualified technician performing the work. I get that. high pressure oxygen and acetylene are nothing to mess around with.

And then there are the regulators. One of the gauges lost the plastic cover. I'd like to get the regulators re-built as well and new gauges.

Thoughts? I'd really like to revive this torch. All the valves, cutting tip lever, and regulators all feel good. But I think new seals, etc., are in order. Like to have it leak tested as well.

[PeteM]

It should work out fine for you. Everything comes with the standard disclaimer "Should only be serviced by a qualified technician..." but I and many guys I've worked with have rebuilt torches in dirty cruddy field environments and lived to tell about it.

Not ISO 9001 or anything, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...

[BoomerangJ]

Thanks Pete! Also thinking of adding the back flow preventers-probably install them on the torch handle side of the hose. Looking for advice/comments on this project.

[Poland308]

Only down side is that the rebuild kit may cost as much, or close to, the cost of new.

[cj737]

Definitely use flashback arrestors. Also, depending upon whether you only use it in the shop or might travel about with it, you can add Quik-Connects before the arrestors to quickly;y and safely remove the torch when not in use and store it.

I've had 3 older Victors rebuilt. Was fairly cheap (about $75-$125 based upon needs). They came back perfect, fully polished, and new nuts on them (some times an adjustable wrench is what's at your disposal). Far cheaper than the $400 to replace them. Time versus money for me... And I would not have polished them to the level they did. So that was a nice, pleasant surprise.

[MarkL]

I'm considering restoring it. Looking for advice on the right way to do this.
....
And then there are the regulators. One of the gauges lost the plastic cover. I'd like to get the regulators re-built as well and new gauges.

I had my stuff rebuilt by this company, they did a good job and I thought the price was fair.

Also thinking of adding the back flow preventers-probably install them on the torch handle side of the hose. Looking for advice/comments on this project.

I ran into a problem when I installed flashback arrestors but didn't realize the torch already had check valves built in to the torch connection fittings. The pressure drop across both devices was enough with small tips at low pressures that the torch wouldn't stay lit. The guys that rebuilt them replaced both devices with a flashback arrestor that had an integral check valve, that solved my problem welding with small tips.

[Artie F. Emm]

I had a good experience with RegulatorTorchRepair.com too. I've DIY'd regulator rebuilds but not torches, so i sent a torch and cutting attachment off to them. Got a call from the owner describing what he'd do, and the torch came back looking and working like new.

Plastic cover on a gauge: replacement covers are available, but acquisition cost ($ and time) may not be worthwhile. The gauges thread in and out, so they're easy and cheap to replace.

Some time back i rebuilt an acetylene regulator, and lashed up a jig to hold it so i could get the front cap off. It's a 2x6 chunk of pine with holes drilled deep enough to hold the bolts... the bolts match up to the inlet, outlet, and gauges and provide counter force so you can unthread the front cap. Just get a wrench on the front cap's hex, and you're good to go.

[BoomerangJ]

Thanks All! A couple of us think alike! I also chose torch and regulator repair. My outfit is in route to them and should arrive today or just after Christmas. I did ask them about flash arrestors and check valves. Their recommendation was flash arrestors on the torch, check valves on the tanks. I'm going to ask about quick dis-connects as well.

In the meantime I picked up a book called "How to Weld" by Todd Bridigum, and a Welding Pocket Reference book. Back when I was 16 and learning it was from a couple of local auto body guys! And actually before that, starting at 12 it was on the farm with an old Lincoln 225 AC welder! and a torch! For the most part I think they showed me the right things to do. The book is scaring the crap out of me on how dangerous the oxygen cylinder can be!!!

Really fun and I'm like a little kid getting that torch going again! Excited to get it back. I'm going to go get tanks today. I'd prefer to use a highly recommended welding shop that is east side Austin-but I can also go a few miles west of me and go with Tractor Supply. I'm leaning towards tractor supply. I hate driving in town!

I asked Torch and Regulator repair for a Rosebud tip for my rig. I know I need the larger tanks to provide the right flow rate-but I'm re-thinking that maybe a rosebud on an acetylene rig is not the best way to go? Propane better? And I'm not sure I really need it. There is some small ornamental stuff that I want to do-Ie; take square stock, get it hot and twist it, etc. Never done that before-in the past I either cut stuff up or welded it together. Any thoughts on this topics?

[Artie F. Emm]

I'm pretty sure that twist you see in square stock is a cold operation: secure one end, then get a lever on the free end and twist. My phone batt is almost dead but i'll look for a video- i recall a Russian guy on one of the forums who showed his methods. The guy turned out amazing art using little more than a tree stump.

[MarkL]

I'm going to go get tanks today. I'd prefer to use a highly recommended welding shop that is east side Austin-but I can also go a few miles west of me and go with Tractor Supply. I'm leaning towards tractor supply.

Tractor supply by us only has small tanks, maybe by you it's different. I'd compare prices, make sure they aren't going to rob you on the refill cost.

I asked Torch and Regulator repair for a Rosebud tip for my rig. I know I need the larger tanks to provide the right flow rate-but I'm re-thinking that maybe a rosebud on an acetylene rig is not the best way to go? Propane better? And I'm not sure I really need it. There is some small ornamental stuff that I want to do-Ie; take square stock, get it hot and twist it, etc. Never done that before-in the past I either cut stuff up or welded it together. Any thoughts on this topics?

I asked the local airgas where I bought my tanks for help on this, they said there's no way I could use one with my tank (I think it's an 80cf). I've never used propane but seems like a much safer, cheaper way to go. When I need to heat things I've found a large welding tip does the trick. If I need more heat I add a few plumber's MAP torches.

[BoomerangJ]

Tractor supply by us only has small tanks, maybe by you it's different. I'd compare prices, make sure they aren't going to rob you on the refill cost.

Went by my local Tractor supply. They have the following tank sizes:
Oxygen: 20, 40, 80, 125, 251, and 390 cu. ft.
Acetylene: 10, 40, 75, and 145 cu. ft.

I'm thinking the 251 cu/ ft. oxygen and the 145 cu. ft. acetylene.

Prices for the same size acetylene fill are the same at the welding supply place and tractor supply: $59.99 and $60.00

The oxygen at tractor supply is twice as much. $21.00 vs. $42.00. Tractor supply is a 25 minute round trip, welding supply is a 90 minute round trip-downtown. I hate downtown. Much rather support a local welding supply place-but wow the inconvenience in this case might be too much to overcome. I could see being in the middle of a project, running out of gas on a Friday!

[BoomerangJ]

Hi All-

This is a great forum. Very friendly in nature and that is a nice change!

My torch outfit came back from Torch and Regulator exchange. Talked with Jim Billingsley a time or two on the phone. This is a great place to work with. Highly recommend. In my situation I needed to get new regulators-mine were not rebuildable. My hoses were old and had to be replaced. The repair cost was pretty close to just buying a new set-but for sentimental reasons I went ahead and had mine updated/rebuilt. I purchased Harris regulators-so may have ended up with a little bit better set up then the new Smiths kit in that price range.

I have been slowed down on getting my work space set up. Two reasons-It's been cold in Texas! I grew up in Iowa-but my blood has long since "thinned out". And I'm waiting for a container to be delivered to store items to clean up my garage. The container was my Christmas present to my wife! Pretty romantic-right? We are still waiting for it as well. Cold stopped them from painting it and getting it ready.

I will then go to Tractor supply and get the tanks and fire this old torch up! Thanks for all the advice and help. I've been on YouTube learning about all the things i was doing wrong-both arc welding and with the torch. But a lot of correct practices to. It's amazing what an application of a little common sense will do in the way of doing things right!

I've been lusting for a welding table now-along with the tooling. Those seem to cost some real money. Did find a couple of candidates on Craigs List. But will also be perusing the project section to if there are some good designs to copy and build. I like the one I saw in this forum where the guy had built in some nice scrap storage bins.

[aland]

I've also used RegulatorTorchRepair.com on a Victor regulator and it came back looking great, they repainted it and it looked like it had come from the factory, although the finish was slightly different. They did an XLNT job IMO and I've had no problem with it for about 7 or 8 years.

Alan