I am thinking about getting a small welding positioner, but I have some very basic operation ??s. like, how do you start the positioner going once you start welding? How do you turn it on? Can it be done automatically by the pressing of the tig pedal? So if my right foot is actuating the Tig Torch, I'd like the positioner to start maybe a second later once I get a puddle. If you have to have it going before you start welding, how do you get the initial puddle going? Seems like the timing of the turn would be critical and I don't know how you do that.
Thanks!
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
The positioner is not generally activated by your gas pedal, nor would you want it to be.
The speed of the positioner is controlled by a separate potentiometer, allowing you to turn faster or slower.
Many who use a positioner, set their machines up with a "Sequencer". This allows: preflow gas, initial start amps, ramp time to full amperage (expressed in seconds), full amps, down slope (tapering heat), final amps, and post flow time. Your machine may or may not have these features.
Of course, many use a foot pedal straight, and a positioner, and turn it on with their rod hand once they get a puddle. The best method for getting the timing right is practice and experience. Always set your pedal heat higher than you need so you can mash it when required, feather the heat when needed.
You can build your own positioner. Buy a small 3 jaw lathe chuck on eBay or Amazon (or go to a local machine salvage broker). Install onto a rotary plate, and use an electric drill to turn the rotary. Here's some links of guys using such a contraption, plus a self-built unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zHdkzbS63k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny5Xxwwpkxs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q505lTzNWZ8
The speed of the positioner is controlled by a separate potentiometer, allowing you to turn faster or slower.
Many who use a positioner, set their machines up with a "Sequencer". This allows: preflow gas, initial start amps, ramp time to full amperage (expressed in seconds), full amps, down slope (tapering heat), final amps, and post flow time. Your machine may or may not have these features.
Of course, many use a foot pedal straight, and a positioner, and turn it on with their rod hand once they get a puddle. The best method for getting the timing right is practice and experience. Always set your pedal heat higher than you need so you can mash it when required, feather the heat when needed.
You can build your own positioner. Buy a small 3 jaw lathe chuck on eBay or Amazon (or go to a local machine salvage broker). Install onto a rotary plate, and use an electric drill to turn the rotary. Here's some links of guys using such a contraption, plus a self-built unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zHdkzbS63k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny5Xxwwpkxs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q505lTzNWZ8
- LtBadd
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Sun Apr 12, 2015 4:00 pm
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Goldhawg
Most positioners you buy come with their own foot pedal which acts as the on/off switch. Some of the higher priced ones may have a foot pedal which will also control the speed, Of the ones I have used most, just have the on/off switch (foot pedal) which is fine for me.
So when TIG welding with a positioner you'll be using both feet, its not too hard to learn and become proficient at.
have you been looking at any particular models?
Most positioners you buy come with their own foot pedal which acts as the on/off switch. Some of the higher priced ones may have a foot pedal which will also control the speed, Of the ones I have used most, just have the on/off switch (foot pedal) which is fine for me.
So when TIG welding with a positioner you'll be using both feet, its not too hard to learn and become proficient at.
have you been looking at any particular models?
Richard
Website
Website
I was considering the one from certiflat
https://weldtables.com/products/fabturn ... e-everyman
https://weldtables.com/products/fabturn ... e-everyman
- tungstendipper
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:09 am
I like mine!Goldhawg wrote:I was considering the one from certiflat
https://weldtables.com/products/fabturn ... e-everyman
Lincoln MP 210, Lincoln Square Wave 200,
Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
- LtBadd
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sun Apr 12, 2015 4:00 pm
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Location:Clearwater FL
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Contact:
What are you using to run it? Pics?tungstendipper wrote:I like mine!Goldhawg wrote:I was considering the one from certiflat
https://weldtables.com/products/fabturn ... e-everyman
Richard
Website
Website
- tungstendipper
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:09 am
I use my cordless drill with a 7/16" socket and an extension. I also found using this clamp helped regulate the speed a bit more consistently. I could set the speed using the squeeze clamp, then once the speed was found slide it off and slide it back on to remember the same speed setting.
The last photo is the permanent gear box and motor I will use to power the positioner, along with a rheostat to control the speed.
The last photo is the permanent gear box and motor I will use to power the positioner, along with a rheostat to control the speed.
- Attachments
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- driver.jpg (123.66 KiB) Viewed 974 times
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- Pos jaws.jpg (108.31 KiB) Viewed 974 times
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- geared motor.jpg (96.97 KiB) Viewed 974 times
Lincoln MP 210, Lincoln Square Wave 200,
Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
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