My Harbor Freight table has been great for learning, but I think it's time to get something that won't collapse if I lean on it.
I am looking at tables. It's very confusing. Some people claim they do great with a slab of 1/4" plate that hasn't been ground or otherwise flattened. Other people seem to think you have to be flat within ten thousandths in order to weld things flat and square. Some people use solid slabs. Others use slats one inch apart. Others use holes which may be metric or imperial and may or may not be threaded.
My head hurts.
I would like to have at least 2 x 3 feet. I don't plan to put 500-pound engines on it, but I would like it to be fairly solid. I would like to be able to clamp stuff down without welding it to the table. The table has to have casters, period.
I'm just a hobbyist/farm owner. I don't have a good excuse to blow thousands on an 8'-long table.
I also do plasma, but so far, I have not needed a special table. I just hang the work out over the edge of the welding table or clamp it in a vise.
I looked at Fabblocks. They don't look too bad. I'm not sure I understand their Fabrack leg kits. It sort of looks like they send you a bunch of square tubes and tell you to weld them together. Couldn't I just go get tubing at my metal dealer's?
What do I really need? Are fancy tables with lots of holes really so wonderful they're worth the money, or will I be sitting in the workshop wondering why I spent so much?
I was thinking I might get a few slabs of 5" x 3/4" steel and put them on a homemade frame. I'm about to put my milling machine back in commission, so I suppose I could flatten the slabs fairly well.
Kind of wondering how I would create a square frame and legs for the table...without a good table!
- Chips O'Toole
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I was socially distant before it was cool.
For a table surface as a home shop/DIY guy, you do NOT need a precision ground surface. Heck, even hot rolled plate or tubing or channel can work.
The only true benefit of a thicker plate surface is it will resist warpage more than thin material. End of story. You can easily buy 6"x1/4" or 3/8" flat stock, 36" long, space them 1" apart, and stitch weld them to the frame for a very usable, very dependable surface. What matters is the frame upon which they sit.
I prefer square tubing for the frame. Legs (2"x2"x1/4") and a stretcher across the bottom to rails connecting the front and back legs. The top frame, I make from 1"x2"x1/4" rectangular tubing, with stringers side-to-side for the slats to be stitched to. Solid, heavy, and square. Weld casters on the bottom of the legs (leveling casters are nice to have).
Jason @Fireball has a very good video where he builds his fab/welding table using his squares since he has no surface to use as a reference. Might be worth watching for ideas. https://youtu.be/-PQLbdILaSU
The only true benefit of a thicker plate surface is it will resist warpage more than thin material. End of story. You can easily buy 6"x1/4" or 3/8" flat stock, 36" long, space them 1" apart, and stitch weld them to the frame for a very usable, very dependable surface. What matters is the frame upon which they sit.
I prefer square tubing for the frame. Legs (2"x2"x1/4") and a stretcher across the bottom to rails connecting the front and back legs. The top frame, I make from 1"x2"x1/4" rectangular tubing, with stringers side-to-side for the slats to be stitched to. Solid, heavy, and square. Weld casters on the bottom of the legs (leveling casters are nice to have).
Jason @Fireball has a very good video where he builds his fab/welding table using his squares since he has no surface to use as a reference. Might be worth watching for ideas. https://youtu.be/-PQLbdILaSU
Same thing has been in my mind for quite a while now with the cogs turning over slowly.
I think you're on the right track, I think the easiest and least time consuming solution is the slat type table. I was thinking 4" x 5/8" but 5" x 3/4" is better still. Don't make a frame, lay the slats out on 2" x 4" x 1/4" square tube on edge drill and countersink/bore the slats and drill/tap the square tube so you have one tube running across the ends of the slates with slat overhang to allow clamping. Leave at least 1" gap between the slats to allow work piece clamping. If the table is to be longer, put in another tube across the middle. Flat bars generally come pretty flat and straight so doesn't really need surface grinding for your planned use, square tube also usually comes flat too, it's angles and channels that can be a little wonky. Just screw it together and it must be flat. No welding warp. The slats are removable and replaceable. Once together, you can attach frame/legs to your content. I like the idea of the type of castor that folds or retracts out of the way lowering the table onto adjustable feet.
I think that's what I will do when I finally decide to upgrade my table.
I think you're on the right track, I think the easiest and least time consuming solution is the slat type table. I was thinking 4" x 5/8" but 5" x 3/4" is better still. Don't make a frame, lay the slats out on 2" x 4" x 1/4" square tube on edge drill and countersink/bore the slats and drill/tap the square tube so you have one tube running across the ends of the slates with slat overhang to allow clamping. Leave at least 1" gap between the slats to allow work piece clamping. If the table is to be longer, put in another tube across the middle. Flat bars generally come pretty flat and straight so doesn't really need surface grinding for your planned use, square tube also usually comes flat too, it's angles and channels that can be a little wonky. Just screw it together and it must be flat. No welding warp. The slats are removable and replaceable. Once together, you can attach frame/legs to your content. I like the idea of the type of castor that folds or retracts out of the way lowering the table onto adjustable feet.
I think that's what I will do when I finally decide to upgrade my table.
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
Chips,
My guess is that largest need you will have for a large welding table, is when you are trying to build the welding table. A bit of a Catch-22.
The fold up tables are great for portable use, but a bit unstable for some projects. You are looking for the next step up, without going overboard. I think 2X3 is a bit too small. I always seem to need more room to keep clamps, tape measure, grinders, etc, handy. You might not be putting 500 lb engines on the table, but it needs to be sturdy enough to hammer on, and stable enough to stand on.
Use online charts to determine weights on the steel sizes you are looking to use. This can give you an idea of total weight of the table. That gives you an idea of the size casters needed.
My guess is that largest need you will have for a large welding table, is when you are trying to build the welding table. A bit of a Catch-22.
The fold up tables are great for portable use, but a bit unstable for some projects. You are looking for the next step up, without going overboard. I think 2X3 is a bit too small. I always seem to need more room to keep clamps, tape measure, grinders, etc, handy. You might not be putting 500 lb engines on the table, but it needs to be sturdy enough to hammer on, and stable enough to stand on.
Use online charts to determine weights on the steel sizes you are looking to use. This can give you an idea of total weight of the table. That gives you an idea of the size casters needed.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
- LtBadd
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Their leg kits come with everything you need, since you have questions call them and ask, it'll only cost you the time for the conversation, then you'll have more information to help make the decisionChips O'Toole wrote: I looked at Fabblocks. They don't look too bad. I'm not sure I understand their Fabrack leg kits. It sort of looks like they send you a bunch of square tubes and tell you to weld them together. Couldn't I just go get tubing at my metal dealer's?
Richard
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You should really make your first table IMHO, it will teach you a lot about fabrication. Here are the first two tables I built. One is a low boy designed for welding while sitting down, it is a 30 inch by 30 inch surface. The second one is for standing work. It is a 3 foot by 5 foot top, 3/8ths inch thick with 2 inch, .120 wall square tube for the frame.
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- table1.jpg (78.42 KiB) Viewed 1318 times
Multimatic 255
- Chips O'Toole
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How did you make the tables square without a table?
Your tables have no openings in them. Would you do it that way again? People seem pretty excited about holes and slats.
Your tables have no openings in them. Would you do it that way again? People seem pretty excited about holes and slats.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
How do you make tables square without a table?
Work off a concrete floor using a level, shims, weights, carpenter square, and so on. Not all that hard, just very time consuming to get it right.
You could do all your projects on the floor, but having a flat work table makes it go faster. As for holes/slots, there are different systems of tooling( clamps, brackets, spacers, etc) that are designed for using them. Pick the system that best fits your needs, then design your top to use them.
I do a lot of assembly work on my table. Small parts and small hardware. A solid table is my best choice for now. When I upgrade to a second larger table, it will be set up for one of the tooling systems. I haven't decided which one will be best for me, but I'm leaning towards the Stronghand system.
Work off a concrete floor using a level, shims, weights, carpenter square, and so on. Not all that hard, just very time consuming to get it right.
You could do all your projects on the floor, but having a flat work table makes it go faster. As for holes/slots, there are different systems of tooling( clamps, brackets, spacers, etc) that are designed for using them. Pick the system that best fits your needs, then design your top to use them.
I do a lot of assembly work on my table. Small parts and small hardware. A solid table is my best choice for now. When I upgrade to a second larger table, it will be set up for one of the tooling systems. I haven't decided which one will be best for me, but I'm leaning towards the Stronghand system.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
Well I watched the video CJ737 posted before I made my table. That and I bought a couple of fireball welding squares.How did you make the tables square without a table?
Correct, no openings. My table has a 6 inch overhang on all sides. I just clamp to the table on a side or on a corner. I haven't made anything yet where that wasn't sufficient for my purposes. Yes I would do it that way again.Your tables have no openings in them. Would you do it that way again?
Yeah, people seem to get excited about a lot of stuff that don't really seem to matter. To each his own I guess. If I find I need the slats and holes I will probably just go buy a stronghand tools fixture table. But until I find I need it, I am not going to.People seem pretty excited about holes and slats.
Multimatic 255
- Chips O'Toole
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Thanks.
I'm going to pick up a couple of those squares. I can't find anything noticeably better for the same kind of money.
I'm going to pick up a couple of those squares. I can't find anything noticeably better for the same kind of money.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
Aaron W
- Aaron W
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Really only commenting because you mentioned a table size of 2x3.
My welding table has been a 2x3 foot plate of 1/2" thick steel propped up on an old metal shelf on its side. I got the plate of steel at the local metal supply for $0.50/lb out of their scrap pile (70lbs so it cost me $35). The shelf was in my to be scrapped pile so it saved me dump fees. I run the ground clamp to the plate or directly to the work.
By no means is this a long term work station, but it has been working pretty well for me until I can fabricate something a little more lasting.
I also bought one of those HF welding tables, but just keep using my cobbled together table instead.
I guess I'm just posting to say I would love to have a fancy welding table, but clearly a decent size chunk of metal does the job too.
My welding table has been a 2x3 foot plate of 1/2" thick steel propped up on an old metal shelf on its side. I got the plate of steel at the local metal supply for $0.50/lb out of their scrap pile (70lbs so it cost me $35). The shelf was in my to be scrapped pile so it saved me dump fees. I run the ground clamp to the plate or directly to the work.
By no means is this a long term work station, but it has been working pretty well for me until I can fabricate something a little more lasting.
I also bought one of those HF welding tables, but just keep using my cobbled together table instead.
I guess I'm just posting to say I would love to have a fancy welding table, but clearly a decent size chunk of metal does the job too.
- Chips O'Toole
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Somebody near me is selling a Powermatic shaper cabinet, without the motor and spindle, for $100. This is like a cabinet table saw. Big, heavy cast iron table with slots. I'm thinking it would make a good interim welding table. Hate to hack up a nice old Powermatic tool, however.
I was socially distant before it was cool.