[Aaronj321]

Hello all,

testing

[weldin mike 27]

Being a beginner, this isn't the best thing to tackle, especially on a good engine. I'd look into something like this, http://www.metalockaustralia.com/metal_stitching.php

Or ask your machine shop about your options. Welding may be able to help, but not for a newb. No offence.

[snoeproe]

Don’t braze it. The strength isn’t there with braze on an engine block.
It needs a cast iron filler rod. Pre heat and slow cooling are a must.
If not done properly, it will crack.

[weldin mike 27]

I've been looking more at the metal stitching things. Have a look at www.locknstitch.com to see exactly what the process can do.

[Arno]

Stitching might be an option, but here I think it's too close to the edge and the load from the fastener wanting to spread the crack open as the head is torqued down will overwhelm it.

I think the only way to possibly repair it is to grind a V groove all the way into the block until the crack is gone and then to repair it with a high nickel rod like usually done for cast iron. Also check for secondary cracks on the other face. It may well be that a whole corner is ready to break off.

Also likely the whole block will need a significant pre-heat and slow cooldown to stop it cracking as the weld cools. After that the hole will need re-tapping and the block re-machined and checked for straightness on the head mating surface but also the crank bore.

Unfortunately repairs like these do carry a high risk of warping or distorting the block and scrapping it.

Unless this is a highly machined and expensive or very, very rare engine block I'd say the best course of action is to cut your losses and scrap this one and get a replacement block. Labour and machining costs to get this fixed properly will be quite steep.

Bye, Arno.

[Poland308]

I've been looking more at the metal stitching things. Have a look at http://www.locknstitch.com to see exactly what the process can do.

Never seen those before. I’ll keep that one in mind.

[weldin mike 27]

Seems to be a very good thing

[Coldman]

I agree with everything said here.

That is why I would not hesitate to use this tig wire and process:
https://ezweldtigwire.com/

I know others here have not had success with it, I have. It's worked for me every time and I love it. I always keep some on the shelf. Iv'e done machine repair, pressure valve repair etc. No failures yet in the field so longevity is good.

No pre or post heat required. Just prep and weld.

I'd get a couple tacks in to hold it in place. Definitely drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it, or complete the break - you must deal with it.
Then vee it out with a dremel or burr and retack. Cut out the first tacks and vee. Then go for it.

If it requires milling and tapping afterwards so be it. To be expected I suppose.

[snoeproe]

If the part requires machining after welding, then a nickel alloy filler metal is best to use.
Cast iron filler metals are non machineable for the most part.

[Poland308]

I agree with everything said here.

That is why I would not hesitate to use this tig wire and process:
https://ezweldtigwire.com/

I know others here have not had success with it, I have. It's worked for me every time and I love it. I always keep some on the shelf. Iv'e done machine repair, pressure valve repair etc. No failures yet in the field so longevity is good.

No pre or post heat required. Just prep and weld.

I'd get a couple tacks in to hold it in place. Definitely drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it, or complete the break - you must deal with it.
Then vee it out with a dremel or burr and retack. Cut out the first tacks and vee. Then go for it.

If it requires milling and tapping afterwards so be it. To be expected I suppose.

I’d be willing to try it. You are only limited by the filler metal. 70 years ago your only brazing option was brass. Not many people braze with brass only today.

[Gunhappy]

[quote="weldin mike 27"][/quote]
Can you please approve my new member posts soI can get some questions answered? Thanks