[Burning Filler Rod]

Oscar,

Thanks for the reply and vote of confidence. Without your input I might still be procrastinating about getting one.

I to had to work with Gary. He sent me a questionnaire to fill out which meant 'dissecting' my foot pedal and finding V/Ω values. I now know more about foot pedals than I will ever need again. The @$#* spring was the worst...!

See Ya, Bye

[v5cvbb]

Burning Filler Rod, I'm kind of partial to Abrams tanks, been there done that, but I never made that connection. I'll eventually end up moving the button to a 20 series water cooled torch. I may trim the mount down then depending on fit then.

I like having the option to easily move the button anywhere on the torch handle. Hair ties work, but elastic was cheaper than a discussion with the wife. Mine is home use as well, so just me using mine. Unless one of my boys decide to give it a go.

[Oscar]

FYI, YYMV but when using the TIG button on my HTP Invertig 221, the amperage that the machine displays at max (213A) is not what is actually happening. The machine is putting out 224A, checked via a clamp-on ammeter. (With the footpedal it puts out 226A even though the display only shows 220A).

Just a heads up in case this happens to anyone else with the TIG button. I suppose it's just some weird interaction with the simulated potentiometer signal that it recreates that messes with the brains of the machine

[v5cvbb]

I'll check mine out with the amp meter. Never even thought about it.

[Oscar]

Using the foot pedal on the Invertig 221:



With the TIG Button it shows 223-224A.

tomorrow I'm going to check the Invertig 400

[Spartan]

FYI, YYMV but when using the TIG button on my HTP Invertig 221, the amperage that the machine displays at max (213A) is not what is actually happening. The machine is putting out 224A, checked via a clamp-on ammeter. (With the footpedal it puts out 226A even though the display only shows 220A).

Just a heads up in case this happens to anyone else with the TIG button. I suppose it's just some weird interaction with the simulated potentiometer signal that it recreates that messes with the brains of the machine

That's odd. I've taken similar DC amperage readings on multiple machines with both switches and foot pedals, and the meter readings have been within one or two amps of the machine read out. I believe that the read out, at least on the Everlast machines I have tested, just switch to an ammeter function once an arc is lit, and so the readings should jive with each other if sampled with an external ammeter.

Perhaps an issue with how HTP is handling the amperage set points or ammeter reading logic, or an issue with the clamp ammeter???

[Oscar]

FYI, YYMV but when using the TIG button on my HTP Invertig 221, the amperage that the machine displays at max (213A) is not what is actually happening. The machine is putting out 224A, checked via a clamp-on ammeter. (With the footpedal it puts out 226A even though the display only shows 220A).

Just a heads up in case this happens to anyone else with the TIG button. I suppose it's just some weird interaction with the simulated potentiometer signal that it recreates that messes with the brains of the machine

That's odd. I've taken similar DC amperage readings on multiple machines with both switches and foot pedals, and the meter readings have been within one or two amps of the machine read out. I believe that the read out, at least on the Everlast machines I have tested, just switch to an ammeter function once an arc is lit, and so the readings should jive with each other if sampled with an external ammeter.

Perhaps an issue with how HTP is handling the amperage set points or ammeter reading logic, or an issue with the clamp ammeter???

Could be the ammeter, it's just a $40 unit from Ebay/Amazon. But on my 55A plasma cutter, it was spot on. One day I will have a Fluke, lol.

[Spartan]

FYI, YYMV but when using the TIG button on my HTP Invertig 221, the amperage that the machine displays at max (213A) is not what is actually happening. The machine is putting out 224A, checked via a clamp-on ammeter. (With the footpedal it puts out 226A even though the display only shows 220A).

Just a heads up in case this happens to anyone else with the TIG button. I suppose it's just some weird interaction with the simulated potentiometer signal that it recreates that messes with the brains of the machine

That's odd. I've taken similar DC amperage readings on multiple machines with both switches and foot pedals, and the meter readings have been within one or two amps of the machine read out. I believe that the read out, at least on the Everlast machines I have tested, just switch to an ammeter function once an arc is lit, and so the readings should jive with each other if sampled with an external ammeter.

Perhaps an issue with how HTP is handling the amperage set points or ammeter reading logic, or an issue with the clamp ammeter???

Could be the ammeter, it's just a $40 unit from Ebay/Amazon. But on my 55A plasma cutter, it was spot on. One day I will have a Fluke, lol.

My affection for Fluke meters runs deep. I seem to collect Fluke meters like you collect HTP welders

[TraditionalToolworks]

My affection for Fluke meters runs deep. I seem to collect Fluke meters like you collect HTP welders

I'm also fond of Flukes. I have a 175 at home I use. I wanted to point out that all meters will not auto-adjust, iow as the voltage changes they will not reflect it on the meter. I think Fluke calls this True RMS. My 175 has that ability, and the reason I got it. I was doing a project that I was controlling electricity current and we used Kleins on the project. Kleins are available on Home Depot, and while not as costly as Fluke, I bought my Fluke off Ebay at a fraction of the price in like new condition as I have always liked Flukes. I was able to write a PID controller on embedded Linux which is essentially what a power supply does, keeps constant voltage.

Do you need a special adapter for the wires to read the amps? How does that work on a welder? I have another meter that has a clamp you can put over wires, that's why I ask. Maybe you connect the wires to the leads (dinse connectors)? I guess that would make sense...

[Oscar]

Do you need a special adapter for the wires to read the amps? How does that work on a welder? I have another meter that has a clamp you can put over wires, that's why I ask. Maybe you connect the wires to the leads (dinse connectors)? I guess that would make sense...

That would require a pretty large shunt to measure the amps. Clamp on are much easier.

[Spartan]

Do you need a special adapter for the wires to read the amps? How does that work on a welder? I have another meter that has a clamp you can put over wires, that's why I ask. Maybe you connect the wires to the leads (dinse connectors)? I guess that would make sense...

Typical multimeters and their probes couldn't come close to handling the amps from a welder, but you can get specialty probes that have additional shunting as Oscar mentioned, or you can also use high capacity ammeters that have direct large screw terminals for the connections. Clamps are the way to go. Most, if not all, clamp ammeters will accurately read AC, but you need a specialty clamp to be able to read DC that is specifically designed to take DC readings.

[Oscar]

This one looks pretty good, compares very closely to an amprobe (pics in the reviews section)

https://www.harborfreight.com/CM610A-60 ... 64015.html

[Spartan]

This one looks pretty good, compares very closely to an amprobe (pics in the reviews section)

https://www.harborfreight.com/CM610A-60 ... 64015.html

Oooph. That ±(3.0%+10) accuracy tolerance may be contributing to the odd readings you are seeing. Not completely terrible, but.....oooph.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Typical multimeters and their probes couldn't come close to handling the amps from a welder, but you can get specialty probes that have additional shunting as Oscar mentioned, or you can also use high capacity ammeters that have direct large screw terminals for the connections. Clamps are the way to go. Most, if not all, clamp ammeters will accurately read AC, but you need a specialty clamp to be able to read DC that is specifically designed to take DC readings.

Ok that makes sense. My clamp meter is slender, similar to that one Oscar linked to at HF, but it's not an HF. For the Klein's I had been reading a DC power supply up to 15 volts DC, so I could read/adjust and those leads were connected to a circuit board. Thanks for answering that, I was asking mainly because the clamp meter is entirely different and I know it reads AC like house current. AFAIK, the Fluke/Klein will only read DC, but could be wrong.

[Oscar]

This one looks pretty good, compares very closely to an amprobe (pics in the reviews section)

https://www.harborfreight.com/CM610A-60 ... 64015.html

Oooph. That ±(3.0%+10) accuracy tolerance may be contributing to the odd readings you are seeing. Not completely terrible, but.....oooph.

That is not the one I have. Mine is cheaper, lol. Besides the ±(3.0%+10) rating doesn't mean that it will be off that much, simply that it is the specified tolerance that must be accepted should it actually be off that much. It measure a lot closer to the amprobe than the spec would otherwise dictate.

[TraditionalToolworks]

It measure a lot closer to the amprobe than the spec would otherwise dictate.

Oscar,

Is what you're calling the amprobe the slender one with the clamp on it?

I have one that runs on batteries. Is that what you use to read the amps?

[Spartan]

Besides the ±(3.0%+10) rating doesn't mean that it will be off that much, simply that it is the specified tolerance that must be accepted should it actually be off that much.

Mmmhhhmmmm. You give Harbor Fright more credit than I do.

[Spartan]

Quick Harbor Fright story. Loosely related.

My pop (nearing 70) was going to install a doggy door at my sisters house. I'm out of state at the time, but talking to him about it on the phone. He says he needs a new set of drill bits to do the install and that he was going to get them from HF because they're just so much cheaper there. I tell him don't do that, order some proper ones or at least get a name brand from a proper hardware store since the HF bits will either break, dull out after after a couple uses, or be bent right out of the box. He basically tells me where I can put my opinion of his "affordable" HF tools. Alright, pop...

Didn't hear another word about it until I was catching up with my sister on the phone a week or so later and she's telling me about all the problems pop had doing the install. She tells me about how mad he got because his drill bits kept snapping, and then she says "it was the strangest thing, though. Out of nowhere he said specifically DON'T TELL TONY ABOUT IT!!" I laughed and laughed, and still give him a hard time about it!

I do use some of HFs offerings, though, in all fairness. Mostly consumables, and some pneumatic grinders.

[Oscar]

Besides the ±(3.0%+10) rating doesn't mean that it will be off that much, simply that it is the specified tolerance that must be accepted should it actually be off that much.

Mmmhhhmmmm. You give Harbor Fright more credit than I do.

PIcs speak 1000 words. Look how close it was to the amprobe, which is a highly regarded ammeter.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I do use some of HFs offerings, though, in all fairness. Mostly consumables, and some pneumatic grinders.

They have a handful of good things, but that's out of the entire store, IMO.

I got a big 24" crescent wrench that didn't break 2 times I needed to use it, but I couldn't find a large enough wrench anywhere else except in the hundreds of dollars. Was about $30 if I recall at HF.

I just don't like shopping there, the place stinks (I know it's the rubber) and I like to claim it's the 2 week old Chinese food they pack the products in that they call cosmoline.

They do keep getting better on some of the products, and their welders seem to have a fair following these days, although like all other things in life, Lincoln had a lawsuit against them as they ripped off the design of their welder. That model is gone now.

The General tool cabinets seems to be good, but every time I think about buying one I somehow haven't ended up pulling the trigger. The best thing I can say about Harbor Freight is "Caveat Emptor". I certainly wouldn't trust my eyes to one of their auto darkening helmets...call me a skeptic...

[dpktm]

I got the amperage slider with the 221 for 2T. Later read where they recommend the on/off button for 4T lift arc, pulsing and spot welding- not the amp slider. They packed a lot of features in the welder, this must be a trade off, which is fine.

[Oscar]

I got the amperage slider with the 221 for 2T. Later read where they recommend the on/off button for 4T lift arc, pulsing and spot welding- not the amp slider. They packed a lot of features in the welder, this must be a trade off, which is fine.

You can use pulse without a on/off button. What they meant was "tig reset", which is a manual form of pulse. I can make you a torch-mounted on/off switch w/ cable assembly for $75. Or I can make a special pigtail adapter so that you can use your foot pedal (or even the slider) as the on/off switch.

[v5cvbb]

Quick Harbor Fright story. Loosely related.

My pop (nearing 70) was going to install a doggy door at my sisters house. I'm out of state at the time, but talking to him about it on the phone. He says he needs a new set of drill bits to do the install and that he was going to get them from HF because they're just so much cheaper there. I tell him don't do that, order some proper ones or at least get a name brand from a proper hardware store since the HF bits will either break, dull out after after a couple uses, or be bent right out of the box. He basically tells me where I can put my opinion of his "affordable" HF tools. Alright, pop...

Didn't hear another word about it until I was catching up with my sister on the phone a week or so later and she's telling me about all the problems pop had doing the install. She tells me about how mad he got because his drill bits kept snapping, and then she says "it was the strangest thing, though. Out of nowhere he said specifically DON'T TELL TONY ABOUT IT!!" I laughed and laughed, and still give him a hard time about it!

I do use some of HFs offerings, though, in all fairness. Mostly consumables, and some pneumatic grinders.

2 absolutely worthless purchases from harbor freight have been drill bits and 4.5" abrasive cutoff discs. I bought the bits to have at the camper for occasion use. $10 but not worth $1. The discs wear so fast it's funny.

[Oscar]

It measure a lot closer to the amprobe than the spec would otherwise dictate.

Oscar,

Is what you're calling the amprobe the slender one with the clamp on it?

I have one that runs on batteries. Is that what you use to read the amps?

What I am calling "amprobe" is an Amprobe clamp-on ammeter. It is the one with the yellow jaws; the one with the orange jaws is the Ames ammeter that Harbor Freight sells. I don't know what you have, but I know that I have a cheaper version of those ammeters, which I use to read AC/DC amperage.

[TraditionalToolworks]

2 absolutely worthless purchases from harbor freight have been drill bits and 4.5" abrasive cutoff discs. I bought the bits to have at the camper for occasion use. $10 but not worth $1. The discs wear so fast it's funny.

Last year at the Bar Z Bash I won a set of Drill Hog bits, warranted for life. So far happy with them and I'd certainly buy more.

This is what I won, looks like they're on sale now.

https://drill-hog.myshopify.com/product ... e-warranty