[Thatkid2diesel]

I posted before, and had great response about ahp vs primeweld. I'm still slated to try to purchase the primeweld tig225 when it comes back in stock on May 11th. My question is, can anyone recommend a gas lens kit that would come with everything (cups, backcaps etc). This will be for the 17 series ck torch that comes with the primeweld.

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[TraditionalToolworks]

I use this one from Weldmonger, you can get gas lenses, collets, cups, tungsten, etc...from them. Pretty much everything except filler. The tig finger and magtab are highly recommended.

https://weldmongerstore.com/products/st ... ger-bundle

Get wedge collets, you will thank me. You need series 4 parts for the stubby setup, goes for all above. Ask them about anything you buy to have them verify you get the right parts, especially the wedge collets.

Since 3/32" is probably the most common size, you can save by getting this kit initially.

https://weldmongerstore.com/products/ba ... 3-32-2-4mm

[Thatkid2diesel]

What about this one? I can see needing 1/16 and 3/32 but doubtful to need 1/8 I don't think.

https://weldmongerstore.com/collections ... s-lens-kit

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[Oscar]

1/8" works great because the tip doesn't erode as fast as the smaller tungstens. If it gets crusty, as they sometimes do, all you do is use a piece of scotchbrite maroon and clean it up. Unless you dip the tungsten, it will take a long time to erode the tip to need re-sharpening, or if you do a lot of aluminum where the tip ends up balling a bit, but that is normal. If you give it a very long sharp taper, you can still use it with low amperages on steel. It has it's advantages.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Since this was a dupe message, I'm going to use it to offer a couple point.

Before you do anything make sure you know how you're going to sharpen your tungsten. There are a number of ways, and I don't want to suggest any specific one, we all need to decide what works for us. One of the more inexpensive ones is an angle grinder since it can be used for so many other tasks needed for welding, but I don't use one to sharpen my tungsten.

Also, make sure you buy at least a 10 pack of tungsten, I recommend CK Worldwide and despite what some others say, I think 3/32" is the best size to start with as you won't be, or at least shouldn't be, practicing on 1/4" - 1/2" material and 3/32" can handle thinner material just fine.

You will be going through a number of tungstens when you start, so have at least 6-12 sharpened when you start a practice session, that way if you contaminate it you can toss it to the side, put a new one in and be on your way. The moment you see yourself either dunk the puddle or jam the filler into the electrode, stop and replace it, period. You need to be watching closely and any abrupt difference usually means you've contaminated it. And watch the frickin' puddle, not the electrode or arc.

Tig requires a lot of tools and accessories to do it right, see some of the other threads.

Also, heed the advice from people who do it daily for their job, like Richard, Josh and cj on this board. Take what people like me say with a large grain of salt, I'm not a professional. Not that people like Oscar, or even me won't offer you some good advice, but people that wear a hood daily find out what works best. That goes for Jody, Bob Moffat, Red Beard, et al, they didn't get where they are by watching YT videos. However, YT is a great instructional media that we have and it offers something we've never had in the past...it has transformed welding instructions beyond most welder's dreams. At the end of the day, nothing beats hood time.

[TraditionalToolworks]

What about this one? I can see needing 1/16 and 3/32 but doubtful to need 1/8 I don't think.

https://weldmongerstore.com/collections ... s-lens-kit

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Looks like the same kit I linked to above with 1/16”, 3/32”, and 1/8” but without the tig finger or mag tab.

It has a DVD. I just watch the videos on YT. My only comment on the videos is be careful, nothing beats hood time.

I use the tig finger XL most of the time, fwiw. Tig finger and mag tab are indispensable, IMO.

[cj737]

What about this one? I can see needing 1/16 and 3/32 but doubtful to need 1/8 I don't think.

https://weldmongerstore.com/collections ... s-lens-kit

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You'll use a 3/32 and a 1/8 way more than a 1/16 unless you weld Titanium and very thin walled stainless. Otherwise, either 3/32 or 1/8 will do everything you want ever.

[Thatkid2diesel]

I was thinking possibly that kit because I bought the tig finger set last year. I do not have the mag tab, but looks like a useful tool. I'm trying to ease in as inexpensively as possible, but not sacrifice on quality. I am still unsure how I will sharpen my tungsten. Unfortunately I don't have extra money currently to purchase a dedicated tungsten grinder, although I know there are other ways to do it. I took a tig class this fall and got very comfortable with the process, and I don't want to lose what I have gained that is why I am pushing to get setup very soon. I mainly do repairs on farm equipment around my family farm, and I don't know exactly how much I will get to tig in that aspect, but I really enjoy tig welding, and even if I am just honing my skill or playing around on some scrap I want to be able to do that when time permits. In the tig class, we had a piranha 3 sharpener. The teacher showed us how to sharpen using a grinder as well and that would be a better at minimum short term option. We exclusively used 2% ceriated for both AC and DC in the class as that is what the local community college supplied. I am leaning more toward 2% lanthanted for the first Tungsten I would purchase, but do plan to keep some of every size on hand. I just wanted to be sure I was in the right ball park of what types of kits to be looking at as I am brand new to acquiring consumables, and when first starting out there is a investment that has to be made to get everything together. I appreciate all of the posts.

[TraditionalToolworks]

You'll use a 3/32 and a 1/8 way more than a 1/16 unless you weld Titanium and very thin walled stainless. Otherwise, either 3/32 or 1/8 will do everything you want ever.

This ^^^^^^^

I'm trying to ease in as inexpensively as possible, but not sacrifice on quality.

Even more I would suggest you just get the 3/32" kit to save money, and some 3/32" electrodes. You can upgrade with a 1/8" gas lens (actually a 2 pack) for about $15 later, but don't put yourself out. Spend the money on a 10 pack of CK Worldwide tungsten, whatever color you prefer. I use 2% lanthanated for everything as I heed Jody's advice.

In the tig class, we had a piranha 3 sharpener. The teacher showed us how to sharpen using a grinder as well and that would be a better at minimum short term option.

I would consider an inexpensive wheel at Harbor Freight if you have a bench grinder. Not that I like HF, but if you're on a budget this makes sense. This would work if you have a rotary that will accept a 1/4" arbor:

https://www.harborfreight.com/large-dia ... 69658.html

Something like one of these could work on an angle grinder, however they are 5/8" and many angle grinders use 7/8" on them. I think my Milwaukee 4-1/2" uses a 5/8, I can't remember. Wire wheel, cutoff wheel and grinding wheel are also handy on an angle grinder, but I digress.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-diam ... 61416.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-d ... 61419.html

HF used to have a thin, flat solid diamond wheel that would fit on a bench grinder, but I don't see one anymore.

Whatever you buy, make sure it ships from the US, there's a lot of ebay sellers shipping diamond wheels from China and Russia. It will take at least 2-3 weeks if not more given the current restrictions.

[tweake]

first thing is don't bother with 1/8 electode in a 17 torch. your not going to need it.
3/32 is a good all round size for that torch. easy enough to taper it for welding thin metal.

don't worry about wedge collets. one of the issues is the tungsten goes off centre. yes split collets do fail, but its cheap to buy a whole pack of them.

weldmonger has a good 3/32 stubby gas lens kit. add in a pack of 3/32 2% lath electrodes and a pack of spare collets.
grab a tig finger as well, they come in so handy. also check out the gloves.

thats a good starting point. once you get into it and work out what you like, you can get into the other bits and bobs.
some people don't like the stubby length and prefer normal length.

ck also do the gas saver range. i like to use those for dirty material as they have a replacable screen. i can get five screens for the price of one gas lens.

[Thatkid2diesel]

I think I will check out that harbor freight set next time I am in there. I am thinking now I may just start with that 3/32 kit and slowly over time add to it. I greatly appreciate all of the fast responses from all.

[tweake]

this is what i use for sharpeing tungstens (tho not that brand).
it has a diamond wheel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multipurp ... +sharpener

[TraditionalToolworks]

don't worry about wedge collets. one of the issues is the tungsten goes off centre. yes split collets do fail, but its cheap to buy a whole pack of them.

I respectfully disagree, and if you were closer I'd offer to trade any split collets for any wedge collets you have, I'd even give you 3 for 2 in exchange.

ck also do the gas saver range. i like to use those for dirty material as they have a replacable screen. i can get five screens for the price of one gas lens.

Probably not needed. The gas lens does save gas as well, just doesn't have replaceable screens. At the price they cost, who cares? If/when one gets clogged, throw it away and replace it with a new one. They are priced as disposables.

[Spartan]

don't worry about wedge collets. one of the issues is the tungsten goes off centre. yes split collets do fail, but its cheap to buy a whole pack of them.

Agreed. Those wedge collets seem like a solution to a problem I've never had.

[tweake]

don't worry about wedge collets. one of the issues is the tungsten goes off centre. yes split collets do fail, but its cheap to buy a whole pack of them.

I respectfully disagree, and if you were closer I'd offer to trade any split collets for any wedge collets you have, I'd even give you 3 for 2 in exchange.

ck also do the gas saver range. i like to use those for dirty material as they have a replacable screen. i can get five screens for the price of one gas lens.

Probably not needed. The gas lens does save gas as well, just doesn't have replaceable screens. At the price they cost, who cares? If/when one gets clogged, throw it away and replace it with a new one. They are priced as disposables.

i have cooked a few split collets. wedge ones work ok but you do end up with a misaligned tungsten which can be a problem with small cups.
may not be so much of an issue in normal length collet bodies. i can't remember off hand what they are like as i do have wedge collets for the standard length gas saver.

cost of gas lens. for me they are certainly not cheap. we tend to get price gouged a lot here. which is one reason i buy from jody and sometimes other usa stores.
its about one gas lens to 5 gas saver screens. so its a decent saving if your dealing with welding crap material.

[TraditionalToolworks]

i have cooked a few split collets. wedge ones work ok but you do end up with a misaligned tungsten which can be a problem with small cups.

I have seen a slight deflection, but it seems to be how the collet is in the gas lens. The hole is off center, but the gas lens has the hole centered. Are you sure you're using the proper size gas lens?

may not be so much of an issue in normal length collet bodies. i can't remember off hand what they are like as i do have wedge collets for the standard length gas saver.

I only use stubby, series 4. I do have some normal and have some split collets, just as a backup.

its about one gas lens to 5 gas saver screens. so its a decent saving if your dealing with welding crap material.

Don't you have to pay through the nose for the gas saver piece, they are way more than the gas lenses for me. I don't have the price of the top of my head.

Funny, I ordered 1/16" wedge collets from Weldmonger, but they sent me split collets. I asked and Garrett told me Jody doesn't carry the wedge collets in 1/16". I told him they sent me split collets last time, I wanted the wedge. I went and dug up the CK number for 1/16" wedge collets and they ordered them. This was mid April. They were supposed to come in the following week. I just sent an email to ask if they had come in. He replied promptly and said they hadn't but he just checked up on the order and they should come in next week. CK must have been sitting on the order. Anyway, I have the 1/16" split collets, in fact I have more than I need, I told him I will send them back as I don't really use 1/16" electrodes, it's just to have them on hand if I do need them.

For me, even with a #5 cup, the wedge collets work fine in a CK17 flex head. I only use CK accessories.

[tweake]

Don't you have to pay through the nose for the gas saver piece, they are way more than the gas lenses for me. I don't have the price of the top of my head.

by mem i don't think its much more. but then again i got the stubby gas saver which i do not see for sale much. so i would expect price to be up on that due to not being a common item like gas lens.
but then again i only have to buy it once.

i do like the stubby compared to the standard length for most things. tho standard length can come in handy for those odd places.

now the question is do i get a new ck torch for my new welder ??

[Oscar]

I make my own. 100% reliable. Never fail.




Aside from my CK stuff, I found the cheapie's unreliable; two weeks ago I fought a porosity issue that took me hours to solve. Long story short, cheapie gas lens wasn't seating right or something; when I put on a regular plain ol' collet and cup, porosity gone. Threw all my cheap 9/20 gas lenses into the trash.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Aside from my CK stuff, I found the cheapie's unreliable; two weeks ago I fought a porosity issue that took me hours to solve. Long story short, cheapie gas lens wasn't seating right or something; when I put on a regular plain ol' collet and cup, porosity gone. Threw all my cheap 9/20 gas lenses into the trash.

'nuff said.

Do you use wedge collets Oscar?

Also, I use these gas lenses.

https://weldmongerstore.com/products/2- ... odies-1-16

tweake,

Can't answer on the CK torch, my latest welder came with one, but I bought one for my green weenie. A definite difference, IMO. I used a Chinese 26 that came with the green weenie for over a year, it has a Chinese hose on it, felt ok until I got the CK torch. It is a Chinese flex hose that looks similar. But it's not, IMO.

Also, I replaced with rigid head with a Chinese flex head for about $10 off Amazon. Worked ok, but not like the CK17.

Everlast will tell you their torches are just about identical, don't even believe it, IMO, it's yet another piece of Chinese junk. That said, the Primeweld is also Chinese, but the torch isn't. For the price I don't know how they can do it, but they do.

[Oscar]

Do you use wedge collets Oscar?

Also, I use these gas lenses.

https://weldmongerstore.com/products/2- ... odies-1-16

I have a set of those stubby gas lenses, as well as regular stubby collet bodies that are not gas lenses. I have some wedge collets, but I definitely have more regular collets than wedges. It's good to have both, as the regular's can still last a long time so long as you don't torque down the back cap while the collet is still hot.

[Spartan]

...the regular's can still last a long time so long as you don't torque down the back cap while the collet is still hot.

Exactly! And here I thought I was the only one who avoided doing that since it is the main culprit of the corkscrewing, in my opinion. Having water cooled torches probably helps quite a bit too. Guys wrench on their back caps after over-driving their air cooled torches, and then seem to wonder why their collets are getting tore up so quickly.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Having water cooled torches probably helps quite a bit too. Guys wrench on their back caps after over-driving their air cooled torches, and then seem to wonder why their collets are getting tore up so quickly.

I have definitely over-driven my air cooled torch, and yeah, I'm not so lucky to have a water cooled torch...certainly the heat has more to do with corkscrewing than any other factor, but for me the wedge collets solve the problem if I push the torch too much.

A wedge collet is cheaper than a water cooler and new torch.

[Spartan]

A wedge collet is cheaper than a water cooler and new torch.

Good point!!

[TraditionalToolworks]

Good point!!

But I will also add to my comments above.

I admit, I'm a $#!TY welder, so I look for any crutch I can find.

If I could afford a better welder, even a water cooler, without sacrificing my new shop/home, I would have it.

And no matter how any of us get to our end, through whatever means, more power to any of us. Those were some pretty welds you did yesterday on those flanges, no matter how you got them done...water cooler, green weenie, slotted or wedge collets, I thought they looked nice and I suspect your customer is going to be happy with them as well.

[Spartan]

Good point!!

But I will also add to my comments above.

I admit, I'm a $#!TY welder, so I look for any crutch I can find.

If I could afford a better welder, even a water cooler, without sacrificing my new shop/home, I would have it.

And no matter how any of us get to our end, through whatever means, more power to any of us. Those were some pretty welds you did yesterday on those flanges, no matter how you got them done...water cooler, green weenie, slotted or wedge collets, I thought they looked nice and I suspect your customer is going to be happy with them as well.

Thanks for the kind words. Delivered that first batch to him today and he was very happy indeed. I think he was used to seeing less-than-great MIG welds. I'm considering getting a rotary positioner to up my game and make pipe welds like that look perfect. We'll see.