I keep changing the design and making the project harder.
Today I made the top of the upper tank bracket. I used plasma to cut recesses in it for the bottles. I didn't know what to use to guide the torch. I tried to think of cylindrical objects I might have that were the right size, and then I remembered my stash of commercial pizza sauce.
I clamped the plate beside another place which was clamped to the table, stuck the can on it, and cut around it. Then I polished the recesses with the flap wheel.
I left a lot of space for holes for TIG wire. I'm nervous about making the holes because I have a hard time with hole saws. Guess I'll practice first. The holes should make the bracket lighter, reducing the load on the M6 bolts that hold it up.
The bracket will attach to the threaded holes Harbor Freight provided for the tool chest's handle.
This box has a lot of structure inside it, so if you're determined, you can take the drawers out, drill through the tubing, and create new attachment points.
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
Did some more work today. I cut a 2" hole in the wrong place, so I welded a disk of metal in and did it over. That killed some time.
This design will definitely work as-is, but I'm thinking of joining the upper and lower platforms with two 1"-square tubes. This will give me something to weld hooks to, and if will also make the upper platform stronger. It's fine the way it is, but it could conceivably be damaged if a fat enough person fell on it or leaned on it really hard.
This design will definitely work as-is, but I'm thinking of joining the upper and lower platforms with two 1"-square tubes. This will give me something to weld hooks to, and if will also make the upper platform stronger. It's fine the way it is, but it could conceivably be damaged if a fat enough person fell on it or leaned on it really hard.
- 10 24 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 12 upper restraint with TIG holes small.jpg (181.36 KiB) Viewed 11901 times
- 10 24 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 13 brackets for upper tank restraint small.jpg (153.19 KiB) Viewed 11901 times
- 10 24 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 14 upper tank restraint attached with bolts small.jpg (137.56 KiB) Viewed 11901 times
- 10 24 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 15 upper bottle restraint installed from above small.jpg (174.53 KiB) Viewed 11901 times
- 10 24 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 16 with TIG tube restraints added small.jpg (153.38 KiB) Viewed 11901 times
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
Thanks, man.
Here is what I have today. I put tubes on the cart for mounting things like cord holders. I have not welded holders onto the tubes, though. I want to put the machines on first and see where the holders should go.
I put truck bed coating on the project. I will have to grind some off in order to install cord holders, but if I had welded the in the wrong places, I would still have had to redo some paint when I moved them, so I figured it was best to go ahead and paint.
Here is what I have today. I put tubes on the cart for mounting things like cord holders. I have not welded holders onto the tubes, though. I want to put the machines on first and see where the holders should go.
I put truck bed coating on the project. I will have to grind some off in order to install cord holders, but if I had welded the in the wrong places, I would still have had to redo some paint when I moved them, so I figured it was best to go ahead and paint.
- 10 25 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 17 steel separated from box and painted small.jpg (387.96 KiB) Viewed 11857 times
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
I thought I was going to wait for the paint to completely cure, but it looked pretty solid today, so I put the box together.
It looks pretty good. Maybe I should have drilled 6 small tube holes instead of 4 big ones, but it will work.
Now I have to find someone to buy two used carts.
It looks pretty good. Maybe I should have drilled 6 small tube holes instead of 4 big ones, but it will work.
Now I have to find someone to buy two used carts.
- 10 27 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 18 finished except for hangers small.jpg (216.84 KiB) Viewed 11813 times
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
I haven't put hangers on it yet. Today I put the welders on it, along with an argon cylinder and a borrowed O2 cylinder, to see how it looked.
I'm wondering if I could get by with a Hel-Hook on each bottle.
If I decide to attach hangers, I'm thinking I may use chain or nylon straps instead of rigid hangers that bang into everything. I may put a flexible hanger on my propane cart, too. I'm not sure why this isn't standard. Rigid ones cause problems and don't work very well.
I'm wondering if I could get by with a Hel-Hook on each bottle.
If I decide to attach hangers, I'm thinking I may use chain or nylon straps instead of rigid hangers that bang into everything. I may put a flexible hanger on my propane cart, too. I'm not sure why this isn't standard. Rigid ones cause problems and don't work very well.
- 10 28 20 harbor freight tool chest welding cart 19 with tanks mocked up small.jpg (243.61 KiB) Viewed 11783 times
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
I want to follow up on this.
The cart is fantastic. No two ways about it. It makes open carts look obsolete and poorly designed, which I guess they are. It's a blast to use. I didn't even have to put cable hooks on it, because all the wires and things drape over the bottles. Hooks would make it worse, not better.
Anyway, I am now making another cart for my plasma cutter and older MIG. I am correcting two mistakes I made with the first cart, and one involves safety.
The first cart I made is no wider than the chest it was made from. The casters under the bottle touch the floor about 20" apart. This is fine in a shop with a flat floor and relatively few clumsy idiots, but once you put it on a slope or let a klutz get near it, tipping becomes a possibility. I am fixing this by widening the wheelbase on the new cart.
The old wheelbase is a rectangle, and rectangles like to rock, so they are easy to tip. I decided to make it a trapezoid with the long side under the bottles. The casters under the bottles will be around 8" farther apart than they are on unmodified chests. Trapezoids don't like rocking or tipping. Since I realized this, I have looked at carts designed by engineers, and I noticed they make their bases the same way.
The old wheelbase is unnecessarily long, and long wheeled things are harder to turn in small spaces. I realized I didn't need a long wheelbase, so I'm cutting it several inches on the new cart. Instead of having the casters all the way out front, they will sit directly under the bottles.
This will leave about 3" of 11-gauge plate hanging out unsupported, but it's more than strong enough. The bottles are flat on the bottom, so they don't exert disproportionate force on the unsupported plate, and the overhang is short, so it's pretty stiff to begin with. Overbuilding is bad design, and leaving the rails long would have made widening the wheelbase a lot harder.
Once again, I am using tubing spacers with holes to lift the chest off the rails. Last time, I went to a lot of trouble making spacers exactly the right height. This involved a lot of cutting, and it didn't improve the cart. This time, I just used 4"-long sections of tubing without reducing their height. This cart will be about 3/8" taller than the other one, which is meaningless. I should have done it this way last time.
Hope this information is useful to other people who build carts.
The cart is fantastic. No two ways about it. It makes open carts look obsolete and poorly designed, which I guess they are. It's a blast to use. I didn't even have to put cable hooks on it, because all the wires and things drape over the bottles. Hooks would make it worse, not better.
Anyway, I am now making another cart for my plasma cutter and older MIG. I am correcting two mistakes I made with the first cart, and one involves safety.
The first cart I made is no wider than the chest it was made from. The casters under the bottle touch the floor about 20" apart. This is fine in a shop with a flat floor and relatively few clumsy idiots, but once you put it on a slope or let a klutz get near it, tipping becomes a possibility. I am fixing this by widening the wheelbase on the new cart.
The old wheelbase is a rectangle, and rectangles like to rock, so they are easy to tip. I decided to make it a trapezoid with the long side under the bottles. The casters under the bottles will be around 8" farther apart than they are on unmodified chests. Trapezoids don't like rocking or tipping. Since I realized this, I have looked at carts designed by engineers, and I noticed they make their bases the same way.
The old wheelbase is unnecessarily long, and long wheeled things are harder to turn in small spaces. I realized I didn't need a long wheelbase, so I'm cutting it several inches on the new cart. Instead of having the casters all the way out front, they will sit directly under the bottles.
This will leave about 3" of 11-gauge plate hanging out unsupported, but it's more than strong enough. The bottles are flat on the bottom, so they don't exert disproportionate force on the unsupported plate, and the overhang is short, so it's pretty stiff to begin with. Overbuilding is bad design, and leaving the rails long would have made widening the wheelbase a lot harder.
Once again, I am using tubing spacers with holes to lift the chest off the rails. Last time, I went to a lot of trouble making spacers exactly the right height. This involved a lot of cutting, and it didn't improve the cart. This time, I just used 4"-long sections of tubing without reducing their height. This cart will be about 3/8" taller than the other one, which is meaningless. I should have done it this way last time.
Hope this information is useful to other people who build carts.
- 07 05 22 red harbor freight welding cart base welded together inverted 02 small.jpg (266.27 KiB) Viewed 11305 times
- 07 05 22 red harbor freight welding cart base welded together standing no paint small.jpg (273.57 KiB) Viewed 11305 times
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
I have to make another change, so I'm adding it here to prevent other people from making mistakes.
My green cart has 120-cubic-foot tanks, so they're tall. I put the upper restraint about 33-1/2" from the shelf the tanks sit on. This is fine for big tanks, but if the web is giving me good information, an 80 is 30" tall at the shoulder, so the restraint has to be down around 28".
The original upper restraint is great because it goes right into the chest's hard mounting points which were designed for a handle. I don't want to put a similar restraint 5-1/2" lower because it would have to have long strips of iron running up to the holes, and everything would be floppy and cause the cart to be gouged up. I also want to avoid drilling the chest and anchoring to sheet metal.
The answer is to put two 1"x1" tubes close to the chest and use the screw points to attach them. Then I can weld the restraint to these tubes farther down, and it will also be welded to tubes at the front. This will allow me to use anything between 80 and 120 gallons.
I might make the restraint suitable for anything down to 60 cubic feet. For a 60, the restraint would have to be 20" or lower.
My green cart has 120-cubic-foot tanks, so they're tall. I put the upper restraint about 33-1/2" from the shelf the tanks sit on. This is fine for big tanks, but if the web is giving me good information, an 80 is 30" tall at the shoulder, so the restraint has to be down around 28".
The original upper restraint is great because it goes right into the chest's hard mounting points which were designed for a handle. I don't want to put a similar restraint 5-1/2" lower because it would have to have long strips of iron running up to the holes, and everything would be floppy and cause the cart to be gouged up. I also want to avoid drilling the chest and anchoring to sheet metal.
The answer is to put two 1"x1" tubes close to the chest and use the screw points to attach them. Then I can weld the restraint to these tubes farther down, and it will also be welded to tubes at the front. This will allow me to use anything between 80 and 120 gallons.
I might make the restraint suitable for anything down to 60 cubic feet. For a 60, the restraint would have to be 20" or lower.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
I have finished the new welding cart. It's a lot more stable than the old one, and it turns in a smaller area. I have to get some screws to attach the handle, but that's about all that's left to do. Some day I may get better wheels for it.
I put spray Herculiner on it. Looks somewhat nicer than other brands of truck bed coating.
It is supposed to take any tank down to 60 cubic feet.
I don't plan to put hangers on it, because wrapping stuff around the bottles and the air filter will actually be neater.
Now I have to get me a tank or two. This will be great. I will never run out of gas, because when my big tanks go dry, I'll have little tanks waiting to go.
I put spray Herculiner on it. Looks somewhat nicer than other brands of truck bed coating.
It is supposed to take any tank down to 60 cubic feet.
I don't plan to put hangers on it, because wrapping stuff around the bottles and the air filter will actually be neater.
Now I have to get me a tank or two. This will be great. I will never run out of gas, because when my big tanks go dry, I'll have little tanks waiting to go.
- 08 13 22 harbor freight red tool chest welding cart no tanks small.jpg (332.59 KiB) Viewed 11257 times
I was socially distant before it was cool.
- Chips O'Toole
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:30 pm
-
Location:FL
Thanks, everybody.
The casters are original. They're fine, but some day I might put different wheels in them because of the likelihood of running over bits of metal.
I am considering putting a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top of the red box to distribute the weight of the heavy American machines.
Today I stuck an 80-cubic-foot tank on the cart, and I wrapped all the cables and stuff around it and the filter support. Everything is out of the way, so I'm not making hangers. The guy who sold me the tank said 120's were a better deal, but I wanted a tank that's easy to throw in the car. Few years back, I sold an 80 for $100 just to get it out of my shop. I wish I had known what they were going to cost in 2022. I would have bought a hundred of them and sold them for a 100% profit.
At my pace, it should take me years to run out of gas now, unless I pull my usual trick of leaving the valve open. The people at Airgas love that.
I bought a 44-inch cabinet, and today I bought steel to make a rack for belt grinder tool arms and a VFD enclosure. It will screw right into the holes intended for an end cabinet.
The casters are original. They're fine, but some day I might put different wheels in them because of the likelihood of running over bits of metal.
I am considering putting a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top of the red box to distribute the weight of the heavy American machines.
Today I stuck an 80-cubic-foot tank on the cart, and I wrapped all the cables and stuff around it and the filter support. Everything is out of the way, so I'm not making hangers. The guy who sold me the tank said 120's were a better deal, but I wanted a tank that's easy to throw in the car. Few years back, I sold an 80 for $100 just to get it out of my shop. I wish I had known what they were going to cost in 2022. I would have bought a hundred of them and sold them for a 100% profit.
At my pace, it should take me years to run out of gas now, unless I pull my usual trick of leaving the valve open. The people at Airgas love that.
I bought a 44-inch cabinet, and today I bought steel to make a rack for belt grinder tool arms and a VFD enclosure. It will screw right into the holes intended for an end cabinet.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
I need to make a tool chest style welding cart for my welder, plasma cutter, two gas cylinders and such. It won't get moved much and I expect that it will stay pretty much in one place right next to the welding table the vast majority of the time. And as the Multimatic 255 is around 25" long plus the hoses and cables I plan to use a bigger than usual workbench style cart, likely something like this 46" mobile workbench from Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in ... /313615424
I have a good bit of channel strut (think Uni-strut or Superstrut) and using two sticks of that on the gas cylinder end of the cart would make the bottle rack height adjustable using either a fabricated shelf bracket or one of the dozens of off the shelf options.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut- ... /100164315
https://www.power-strut.com/product-details/ps-838-r-l
I own my own cylinders and for the most part they are big.... like 280-320 CF big. So the cart is not going to be the kind of thing I plan to drag around much.
Lance
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in ... /313615424
I have a good bit of channel strut (think Uni-strut or Superstrut) and using two sticks of that on the gas cylinder end of the cart would make the bottle rack height adjustable using either a fabricated shelf bracket or one of the dozens of off the shelf options.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut- ... /100164315
https://www.power-strut.com/product-details/ps-838-r-l
I own my own cylinders and for the most part they are big.... like 280-320 CF big. So the cart is not going to be the kind of thing I plan to drag around much.
Lance
LanceR
Miller Multimatic 255
Hypertherm Powermax45 XP
Heck Bevel Mill 4000
Ace fume extractor
Welding/cutting/brazing torches
Miller Multimatic 255
Hypertherm Powermax45 XP
Heck Bevel Mill 4000
Ace fume extractor
Welding/cutting/brazing torches
Return to “Welding Forum General Shop Talk”
Jump to
- Introductions & How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Welcome!
- ↳ Member Introductions
- ↳ How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Moderator Applications
- Welding Discussion
- ↳ Metal Cutting
- ↳ Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding
- ↳ Mig and Flux Core - gas metal arc welding & flux cored arc welding
- ↳ Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding
- ↳ Welding Forum General Shop Talk
- ↳ Welding Certification - Stick/Arc Welding, Tig Welding, Mig Welding Certification tests - Welding Tests of all kinds
- ↳ Welding Projects - Welding project Ideas - Welding project plans
- ↳ Product Reviews
- ↳ Fuel Gas Heating
- Welding Tips & Tricks
- ↳ Video Discussion
- ↳ Wish List
- Announcements & Feedback
- ↳ Forum News
- ↳ Suggestions, Feedback and Support
- Welding Marketplace
- ↳ Welding Jobs - Industrial Welding Jobs - Pipe Welding Jobs - Tig Welding Jobs
- ↳ Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade Used Welding Equipment
- Welding Resources
- ↳ Tradeshows, Seminars and Events
- ↳ The Welding Library
- ↳ Education Opportunities