General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
I got this helmet from harbor freight and I can't see anything with it. So I think that's a part of my problem with mig and tig. Anyways looking for nice helmets under $180, any suggestions. There some speedglas for $179 on weldersupply.com. Thanks
- AKweldshop
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If you can't see anything it might be your lens shade....
They ussally go from 9-13.
Should be a knob somewhere to adjust it.
~John
They ussally go from 9-13.
Should be a knob somewhere to adjust it.
~John
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
I ran one of the cheap Metal Man helmets they sell at Tractor Supply Co. and loved it. I had it for 8 years, it was solar powered, no batteries and I had no problems from it. I would still be using it today but the arc sensors burnt up in it after 8 years of heavy use. I now have a Miller but would recommend the Metal Man as a cheap decent auto dark helmet. It runs about $90 I believe at Tractor Supply Co.
It's always best to build your own, especially when it comes to hitches!!!
Matt
Matt
Lincoln 3350. 4 sensors, replaceable 2450 battery, very large view, comfortable headgear. Basic black around $180.00 on line and local. Also accepts snap-in magnifiers. My son and I have them and are very happy with them. The harbor freight hoods really hurt my eyes.
I have it on 9 and 10 and cant see anything when I hit the switch. Before pushing the pedal I can see everything, of course but when I hit the pedal I can see the arc but not where I'm putting it and can't find the filler rod sometimes. I would like to see where I'm going and what I just did. I know I have bad eyes. Two thing I'm going to try are a flap to cover the back of the helmet and a maybe a cheater lens.
- Braehill
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I have the Save Phace GenY and I like it, it has an ADF in the normal place and is surrounded by a shade 10 filter. If you go to their site it will explain it better than I can in print. It's also small enough to fit in smaller places than my other ADF helmets. I have a number of the HF el Cheapo helmets and a Jackson Huntsman (which I like the least) and use them quite often without trouble. I use a cheater in my helmets and the one I use most for Tig welding I have a 3x for better clarity, and the others are 2x for SMAW and the rare times I Mig weld.
I don't weld all day everyday so I don't have a lot of experience with eye fatigue while using any of the current helmets.
Len
I don't weld all day everyday so I don't have a lot of experience with eye fatigue while using any of the current helmets.
Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
- Otto Nobedder
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Thanks, Len,
That's the first review I've seen for the Save Phace on here. I'd been wondering.
Steve S
That's the first review I've seen for the Save Phace on here. I'd been wondering.
Steve S
kermdawg
- kermdawg
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Im really thinking about buying one they look and sound really really cool. How is the eye to eye wide view depth perception deal their bragging about? Is there any way to substitute a fixed shade lense in there?
Signature? Who needs a F***ing signature?
- Braehill
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They sell fixed shade lens that replace the whole system. Again, it's easier to go to their site a check them out. Me trying to explain wouldn't do it justice.
Len
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Len
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
- Otto Nobedder
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- dynasty200sd
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Joined:Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:39 pm
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Location:Holley, FL
About 4 years ago when Miller was donating to Operation Homefront with every purchase of their Digital Camo patterned Digital Elite Helmets, I picked one up from Indiana Oxygen Company.
http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/p ... r/helmets/
nightscale
- nightscale
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When I compared auto-darkening helmets, I found that the really cheap ones shifted at the same rate as the expensive ones: 25 thousandths of a second. Sellstrom has a new one out that shifts at 3 ten thousandths of a second, almost 100 times faster; but I have never seen a price for it. Knowing that even a little flash every time can add up to a lot of flash over time, I bought the Accustrike helmet by Cherokee Industries. It's a USA made passive (non-auto-darkening) helmet which uses a chin strap to open and close the lens. Keeps your hands free and no need to nod your head. You can tack or weld as fast as you can reposition. Great for all the guys who can't be bothered to wear a helmet for tacking but just close their eyes or avert their gaze. Check out www.accustrike.com I should get commissions for as many of my contacts have bought these.
- dynasty200sd
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The Miller Digital Pro-Hobby, Performance, Elite and the Jackson Nexgen switching speed is listed at 0.00005 (1/20,000th of a second). I looked up the Sellstrom Smartweld Pro, and it lists the switching speed at 0.0003 or (6/20,000th of a second). Which all of them still are switching very fast, the Jackson and Millers are switching a mere 5/20,000th of a second faster. Which are still infinitesimally not that far off.
I have a HF helmet I've been using for years.....but of course low hours.
With my interest in being a better welder, guess I really need to improve my helmet.
Having said that, I can't remember ever feeling like I wasn't seeing the rod or the joint itself.
I usally set the lens at 10 or 11....
Hopfully as I improve my skills, I'll the difference you guys do.
48D
With my interest in being a better welder, guess I really need to improve my helmet.
Having said that, I can't remember ever feeling like I wasn't seeing the rod or the joint itself.
I usally set the lens at 10 or 11....
Hopfully as I improve my skills, I'll the difference you guys do.
48D
- dynasty200sd
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It's all good. I'm no pro by-all-means. I remember hearing or reading near a decade ago that when you can see the 4 or 5 areas of a weld simultaneously is when welding gets a little easier. (arc, puddle, root, solidified bead already laid, HAZ).48dodger wrote:I have a HF helmet I've been using for years.....but of course low hours.
With my interest in being a better welder, guess I really need to improve my helmet.
Having said that, I can't remember ever feeling like I wasn't seeing the rod or the joint itself.
I usally set the lens at 10 or 11....
Hopfully as I improve my skills, I'll the difference you guys do.
48D
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