I'm wondering if such a piece exists already (pre-made), a 90 degree (and possibly other degrees as well) "inner sleeve" piece that would slip into the tubing?
My problem is, I don't always cut perfect 45s. And even if I do, the outside edge is difficult to weld without punching through sometimes. I know I can turn the power down or tack-tack-tack it, but I like the welds on my furniture to be wide and flat, which means I need to turn up the heat a bit. (I'm talking MIG welding here). The wide flat welds make it look heavy, even though it's only 16 gauge. I think with an inner sleeve piece like this, I could turn up the heat a good bit. And as a side benefit, it would also help with assembling the piece, since it's usually just me, I end up using lots of clamps and things before I start tacking. These sleeves would kind of keep things together a bit (a little bit) before tacking.
I know I could make something like this, but I'm wondering if something like this exists already, for sale? I've searched around a bit, but I can't seem to find something like this, maybe I'm not using the right search term
For my furniture, I usually use 1" square tubing (mild steel) that is 16 gauge thick. I've greatly exaggerated the wall thickness in these images, so you can better see what I'm talking about.
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
danielbuck
- danielbuck
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Tue Jan 21, 2014 7:56 pm
-
Location:Gilroy, CA
I don't know about the sleeves but as far as getting a flat weld on the outside corner, grind the corner flat to the weld size, or close to what you want AND turn the amps down. Bevel the face ends accordingly. Making your own fittings that fit well, would be likely more work than building your furniture twice.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
I agree with the others but you can use a square profile , hollow or solid, and insert from one direction. That wil give same support but much easier with only straight cuts.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
- MinnesotaDave
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
-
Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
I agree - just use a straight piece as a backer for welding and run hot enough to weld all three together.AndersK wrote:I agree with the others but you can use a square profile , hollow or solid, and insert from one direction. That wil give same support but much easier with only straight cuts.
Also, on the outside corner, grind the knife edge off before welding.
Or switch to tig - much more control on what your finished weld looks like.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
danielbuck
- danielbuck
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Tue Jan 21, 2014 7:56 pm
-
Location:Gilroy, CA
I am learning TIG right now, it's slow going though! That's actually why I picked up a TIG machine, so that I can hopefully have nice looking welds on my future furniture projects.
As for grinding flat, and backing off on the power, I've tried that, and I never seem to get a flat looking weld that doesn't punch through. It's always on the outside corner, even if I weld it down-hill to try and keep from punching through or stacking up to much.
As for grinding flat, and backing off on the power, I've tried that, and I never seem to get a flat looking weld that doesn't punch through. It's always on the outside corner, even if I weld it down-hill to try and keep from punching through or stacking up to much.
what I was thinkingAndersK wrote:I agree with the others but you can use a square profile , hollow or solid, and insert from one direction. That wil give same support but much easier with only straight cuts.
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
- MinnesotaDave
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
-
Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
Keep after your tig practice - it's awesomedanielbuck wrote:I am learning TIG right now, it's slow going though! That's actually why I picked up a TIG machine, so that I can hopefully have nice looking welds on my future furniture projects.
As for grinding flat, and backing off on the power, I've tried that, and I never seem to get a flat looking weld that doesn't punch through. It's always on the outside corner, even if I weld it down-hill to try and keep from punching through or stacking up to much.
I tell people to hammer through the first 100 hours as quickly as you can - much easier after that
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
danielbuck
- danielbuck
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Tue Jan 21, 2014 7:56 pm
-
Location:Gilroy, CA
100 hours will take me a year at least, haha! I only have time to tinker on the weekends, inbetween getting other stuff done. I can tell that it'll definitely be nice once I get the hang of it though.MinnesotaDave wrote:Keep after your tig practice - it's awesomedanielbuck wrote:I am learning TIG right now, it's slow going though! That's actually why I picked up a TIG machine, so that I can hopefully have nice looking welds on my future furniture projects.
As for grinding flat, and backing off on the power, I've tried that, and I never seem to get a flat looking weld that doesn't punch through. It's always on the outside corner, even if I weld it down-hill to try and keep from punching through or stacking up to much.
I tell people to hammer through the first 100 hours as quickly as you can - much easier after that
Return to “Welding Forum General Shop Talk”
Jump to
- Introductions & How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Welcome!
- ↳ Member Introductions
- ↳ How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Moderator Applications
- Welding Discussion
- ↳ Metal Cutting
- ↳ Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding
- ↳ Mig and Flux Core - gas metal arc welding & flux cored arc welding
- ↳ Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding
- ↳ Welding Forum General Shop Talk
- ↳ Welding Certification - Stick/Arc Welding, Tig Welding, Mig Welding Certification tests - Welding Tests of all kinds
- ↳ Welding Projects - Welding project Ideas - Welding project plans
- ↳ Product Reviews
- ↳ Fuel Gas Heating
- Welding Tips & Tricks
- ↳ Video Discussion
- ↳ Wish List
- Announcements & Feedback
- ↳ Forum News
- ↳ Suggestions, Feedback and Support
- Welding Marketplace
- ↳ Welding Jobs - Industrial Welding Jobs - Pipe Welding Jobs - Tig Welding Jobs
- ↳ Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade Used Welding Equipment
- Welding Resources
- ↳ Tradeshows, Seminars and Events
- ↳ The Welding Library
- ↳ Education Opportunities