I am having trouble with my Root Pass & Overhead Cover Pass.
Materials 2 Pieces of Schedule 40, 8" Dia x 4" Long Pipe 1/8" 6010 Root 3/32 7018 Hot/Cover
ROOT PASS
I using about 77amps for all 3 passes My root keeps making big keyholes then I start jogging it back and making big boogers which I then have to grind off. So I really need some root pass tips since its a real time waster to keep messing up....
COVER PASS
My Vert Up and Flat passes are okay but My overhead Pass is sagging and not tieing in at the edges as much as I'd like if I pause at the edges too long I keep getting big globs that looks like a sagging booger to me.
I think it may be my speed and not keeping a tight enough arc am I on the right track Please help these pipes are laughing at me!
Oh also My eyes are kind of sore and are sorta blood shot I know I'm not flashing myself and I have the right shade can light the comes in from the bottom or top of the mask hurt your eyes. I get my mask right close to the weld puddle w/o blinking. Hopefully I'm just being paranoid.
- Otto Nobedder
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How big is your root gap and land? You might need to dial it back 5 amps.
For 7018 overhead, I prefer to "push" about 15 degrees.
If your eyes are sore; What color shirt are you wearing? Light colors will reflect more light from your chest and shoulders. Wear a leather "bib" on your hood, or wear only dark cotton clothing (polyester reflects a lot of UV because the makers want it to resist sunlight). I've been burned when welding in a confined space with the walls being stainless.
Steve
For 7018 overhead, I prefer to "push" about 15 degrees.
If your eyes are sore; What color shirt are you wearing? Light colors will reflect more light from your chest and shoulders. Wear a leather "bib" on your hood, or wear only dark cotton clothing (polyester reflects a lot of UV because the makers want it to resist sunlight). I've been burned when welding in a confined space with the walls being stainless.
Steve
My Land is between 3/32 & 1/8" with a 3/32" Gap.... Hmm ya know Maybe my gap isn't quite 3/32" I'll make sure to double check that tomorrow.
I'm wearin my green Jacket w/ leathers but I am in a small confined area.
I'll try Turnin down the amps. Is it recomended to jog it a little when I start getting a large keyhole?
Thanks for your Help
-Jake
I'm wearin my green Jacket w/ leathers but I am in a small confined area.
I'll try Turnin down the amps. Is it recomended to jog it a little when I start getting a large keyhole?
Thanks for your Help
-Jake
- Otto Nobedder
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If needed. The slight reduction in current may help enough on it's own. Once you find what works for you, you'll find it doesn't work for everyone. Few welders do it exactly the same way.crustkid wrote:... Is it recomended to jog it a little when I start getting a large keyhole?...
-Jake
For the sore eye problem, look at the inside of your hood. Is the surface shiny? If so, dull it down with a Scotchbrite.
Are you using an auto-lens? If so, how old? How good are the batteries? Was it an inexpensive model in the first place?
A less-than-top-quality auto lens will damage your eyes over time. I refuse to use one at all. My shade 10 flip-down has never failed me.
Steve
Our School just got new Helmets Which are Jackson *Nitro "Not Cheap" But I did notice today that the Helmet I used yesterday someone pulled out the front of it and when they stuck it back in it was upside down. I used a diff helmet today and was fine..
My root looked even worse today I think I'm just doing very poor fit-up However my hot pass and cover pass is looking a lot better.
I have trouble just getting the root started. My electrode keeps sticking and when I finally get it going I move about and inch or 2 and it goes out and sticks again Then I blew a key hole the size of a dime in the darn thing.
Practice Practice Practice this is my first week of 5G Pipe its just frustrating since I never had trouble with my root pass on my Overhead Butt...Plus I'm at the end of the program which I've been in for 1.5 years I feel like I shouldn't be having this much trouble still. I'm 28 and really need to get good so I can land a job.
-Jake
My root looked even worse today I think I'm just doing very poor fit-up However my hot pass and cover pass is looking a lot better.
I have trouble just getting the root started. My electrode keeps sticking and when I finally get it going I move about and inch or 2 and it goes out and sticks again Then I blew a key hole the size of a dime in the darn thing.
Practice Practice Practice this is my first week of 5G Pipe its just frustrating since I never had trouble with my root pass on my Overhead Butt...Plus I'm at the end of the program which I've been in for 1.5 years I feel like I shouldn't be having this much trouble still. I'm 28 and really need to get good so I can land a job.
-Jake
kermdawg
- kermdawg
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Fit up is everything with pipe welding. Thats why pipe fitters have there own job classification and make so much money. If your fitup is poor, your welds are going to be poor.
After you lay all 4 of your tacks, check your fitup for square and hi-lo. If it aint perfect within 1/32, grind em out and start over.
Dont get any bad habits in school
It all starts with fit up!
After you lay all 4 of your tacks, check your fitup for square and hi-lo. If it aint perfect within 1/32, grind em out and start over.
Dont get any bad habits in school
It all starts with fit up!Signature? Who needs a F***ing signature?
I ran my root today at 70 amps and it looked a lot better then I did my hot and cover pass at about 80 dialing it down to about 74 for my vert up and flat position.. all looked good but My overhead still needs improvement Does this sound about right? Will higher amps and a tighter arc smooth out that overhead bead for me?
- Otto Nobedder
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I find that I run overhead hotter than any other position. Maybe some 4g practice on scrap will help you find your ideal heat.
If you expect to work in the field, you'll eventually have to find a "compromise" amperage that works in all positions for both your 6010 and 7018, or at least one setting for each rod. You may be 200 feet and three floors from your machine. Don't worry about that until you're satisfied with your bench work, though.
I've said it before, we are our own worst critics. When you doubt your welds, ask someone else for an opinion. Your work probably looks better than you think it does.
Steve
If you expect to work in the field, you'll eventually have to find a "compromise" amperage that works in all positions for both your 6010 and 7018, or at least one setting for each rod. You may be 200 feet and three floors from your machine. Don't worry about that until you're satisfied with your bench work, though.
I've said it before, we are our own worst critics. When you doubt your welds, ask someone else for an opinion. Your work probably looks better than you think it does.
Steve
The 6010 root has become the bane of my existance! I must be doing something right tho my teacher says there are some jobs comming up that he is going to recomend me for. However my hard work ethic isn't making my 6010 root look any better 
Yep I get it runnin good then I'll open up a big keyhole, when I turn my amps down I have a hell of a time restarting beacuse it keeps sticking or just continues to open up that keyhole. This is really the only weld I have a problem with the root.
kermdawg
- kermdawg
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Sounds like whats happenin is your gettin a good, smooth, steady rhythm goin, and as the metal heats up, the keyhole opens up and your not speedin up or changing your arc length to compensate.
your not going to be able to go exactly the same speed all the way around the groove, cause that metals going to heat up-the smaller the coupon and schedule, the faster it will happen. Same with the land, if your land isnt even all the way around, or too small, it'll keyhole faster than another section of pipe, where it will take more heat to break down those walls.
Are you cuttin your own coupons or are they pre cut?
your not going to be able to go exactly the same speed all the way around the groove, cause that metals going to heat up-the smaller the coupon and schedule, the faster it will happen. Same with the land, if your land isnt even all the way around, or too small, it'll keyhole faster than another section of pipe, where it will take more heat to break down those walls.
Are you cuttin your own coupons or are they pre cut?
Signature? Who needs a F***ing signature?
kermdawg
- kermdawg
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Aint nothin like it huh? Bangin yer head against the wall, just cant get it no matter what you do. Then, one little adjustment and BOOM it all hits home and all of a sudden its second nature.
Great feeling eh
Great feeling eh
Signature? Who needs a F***ing signature?
- Otto Nobedder
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Remind you of learning to ride a bicycle?
One day you're bouncing from one training wheel to the other, and the next day you don't need them? You didn't learn anything you can explain. Your body just... Gets it.
Steve
One day you're bouncing from one training wheel to the other, and the next day you don't need them? You didn't learn anything you can explain. Your body just... Gets it.
Steve
Hi, rw norris , sounds like you need to stick the 6010 in the keyhole, and you can pull it back. lestening at the sound and welding the inside of the pipe. moving in and out to control the size of the keyhole . you will always have to grind remeber the money is inside the pipe ,,, the root outside not to worry make inside look good. try 3/32 gap 1/8 land 3/32 6010. control keyhole by sticking the rod thru ! the pipe pulling back as needed . a few times should let you see whats happening.