I'm working on some 3inch stainless pipe and I need to shape a 20mm by 5mm deep "dent" in a section for clearance
I was going to heat it push it like mild steel but being stainless I don't want to do it this way if there is a better way
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
- weldin mike 27
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- TRACKRANGER
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We've used the sand method too. Very dry sand, packed in tight and the ends of the pipe capped. We then used heat and formed the pipe to suit.weldin mike 27 wrote:Try filling it with sand and using a tool the shape of the dent you want.
What is the wall thickness of the pipe, do you know what grade stainless?
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
the grade is 304 and wall thickness is 1.6mmTRACKRANGER wrote:We've used the sand method too. Very dry sand, packed in tight and the ends of the pipe capped. We then used heat and formed the pipe to suit.weldin mike 27 wrote:Try filling it with sand and using a tool the shape of the dent you want.
What is the wall thickness of the pipe, do you know what grade stainless?
- TRACKRANGER
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Oh, OK
I was thinking something more heavy walled. This sounds more like tube than pipe
Should be very 'doable'
I was thinking something more heavy walled. This sounds more like tube than pipe
Should be very 'doable'
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
- Otto Nobedder
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1,6mm sounds like sch. 5, so, yes, pipe.
The sand method is an excellent way to not collapse pipe where you don't want it to kink, and heating 304 to the brown to dull red range to form it will have no adverse effects. If the heat-affected zone brushes back to "shiny" without a surface grind, and there's no "sugar" on the back side, you've done little to no harm.
Steve S
The sand method is an excellent way to not collapse pipe where you don't want it to kink, and heating 304 to the brown to dull red range to form it will have no adverse effects. If the heat-affected zone brushes back to "shiny" without a surface grind, and there's no "sugar" on the back side, you've done little to no harm.
Steve S
angus
- angus
it's a dent, one dimension is missing but i'd guess it's 7/32 deep by 25/32 long; (app). hit it with a hammer or use an air chisel with flattening attachment. lol sand is a PIA and hardly ever, if ever, necessary. filling a tube of unknown length with sand, welding a cap on both ends and then cutting the caps off, emptying the sand and cleaning up the ends seems like a lot of work for what amounts to a ding the size of a hammer head.
before I did all that, if I had to, I would just cut it in two places push down and weld.
before I did all that, if I had to, I would just cut it in two places push down and weld.
- Otto Nobedder
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There's some good sense, without over-thinking it and making more work than needed.angus wrote:it's a dent, one dimension is missing but i'd guess it's 7/32 deep by 25/32 long; (app). hit it with a hammer or use an air chisel with flattening attachment. lol sand is a PIA and hardly ever, if ever, necessary. filling a tube of unknown length with sand, welding a cap on both ends and then cutting the caps off, emptying the sand and cleaning up the ends seems like a lot of work for what amounts to a ding the size of a hammer head.
before I did all that, if I had to, I would just cut it in two places push down and weld.
Steve S
- TRACKRANGER
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AgreedOtto Nobedder wrote:There's some good sense, without over-thinking it and making more work than needed.angus wrote:it's a dent, one dimension is missing but i'd guess it's 7/32 deep by 25/32 long; (app). hit it with a hammer or use an air chisel with flattening attachment. lol sand is a PIA and hardly ever, if ever, necessary. filling a tube of unknown length with sand, welding a cap on both ends and then cutting the caps off, emptying the sand and cleaning up the ends seems like a lot of work for what amounts to a ding the size of a hammer head.
before I did all that, if I had to, I would just cut it in two places push down and weld.
Steve S
But we all learned more about the best approach as the thread progressed, especially the bit about the wall thickness and the grade.
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
If you care about appearance, put a rod transverse to the pipe and whack on that, gives you less tooling marks and blends the dent better.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
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