I'm hoping this is an easy fix, as I'd really like it to be reading properly. The welder is about 5 years old, so it's out of warranty.
Anybody have any insight on what the problem could be? Any suggestions of things to check?
suedePflow
- suedePflow
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I fired up my welder yesterday for the first time in a couple weeks, and I noticed the digital display reads zero no matter where the dial is set. Turning the dial still seems to properly change the amperage output, but I cannot see what it's set to until I strike an arc. While welding, the display reads correctly.
I'm hoping this is an easy fix, as I'd really like it to be reading properly. The welder is about 5 years old, so it's out of warranty.
Anybody have any insight on what the problem could be? Any suggestions of things to check?
I'm hoping this is an easy fix, as I'd really like it to be reading properly. The welder is about 5 years old, so it's out of warranty.
Anybody have any insight on what the problem could be? Any suggestions of things to check?
- Otto Nobedder
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It sounds like the board has somehow "locked" itself into "actual", without allowing you to see the "preset". That machine is programmable to some extent for the slope times, etc. for 2T and 4T modes.
Do you have the manual for the machine? There may be a simple way to "restore factory defaults" so it reads like you're used to, and you can start fresh with your settings.
If this doesn't work or there's no option to do it, report back, and we'll research it a bit deeper.
Steve S
Do you have the manual for the machine? There may be a simple way to "restore factory defaults" so it reads like you're used to, and you can start fresh with your settings.
If this doesn't work or there's no option to do it, report back, and we'll research it a bit deeper.
Steve S
suedePflow
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Steve,
Thanks for the reply. I do have the manual, but there is no mention of a default reset. The 2t and 4t is switchable via a toggle on the front. The problem persists on either setting. I also tried the hand trigger instead of the foot pedal, and I tried a different 220v power outlet and 110v VS. 220v. No change.
Thanks for the reply. I do have the manual, but there is no mention of a default reset. The 2t and 4t is switchable via a toggle on the front. The problem persists on either setting. I also tried the hand trigger instead of the foot pedal, and I tried a different 220v power outlet and 110v VS. 220v. No change.
- Otto Nobedder
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I studied the manual online.
Try disconnecting the pedal, and set it up to operate it in lift-arc, and see if your amp setting reads the preset.
Something I read suggests that if the switch in your pedal is closed, but no force is on the pedal, it may read "zero" amps.
This could be as simple as an adjustment in the mechanism of your remote.
Steve S
Try disconnecting the pedal, and set it up to operate it in lift-arc, and see if your amp setting reads the preset.
Something I read suggests that if the switch in your pedal is closed, but no force is on the pedal, it may read "zero" amps.
This could be as simple as an adjustment in the mechanism of your remote.
Steve S
suedePflow
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Steve,Otto Nobedder wrote:I studied the manual online.
Try disconnecting the pedal, and set it up to operate it in lift-arc, and see if your amp setting reads the preset.
Something I read suggests that if the switch in your pedal is closed, but no force is on the pedal, it may read "zero" amps.
This could be as simple as an adjustment in the mechanism of your remote.
Steve S
Thanks again for the reply.
I tried what you said, and no change. I also tried with the hand control VS the foot pedal.
I spoke with two different Lincoln techs and didn't get very far with either. One suggested the ribbon cable from the display board may have come loose. And our call ended before we got any further.
The next tech suggested I replace the display board. He said he wasn't very confident it would fix the problem because display boards rarely go bad, but it's "a good start for only $438".
No offense to these guys, but they don't sound any more tech savvy than a random Joe who has recently read through a service manual. I'm surprised to not find any information online about this issue, and also surprised that two different Lincoln techs are unfamiliar with the problem. I'm starting to feel far less confident that this is an easy fix.
- Otto Nobedder
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My experience with Lincolns' "techs" has been similar. We were smoking Lincoln brand wp-20s every few days, and couldn't figure out why.
Neither could their "tech".
Turns out the local rental agency was using plain ol' Pennsylvania tap water and automotive antifreeze in the coolers, and we were using the torches on continuous HFAC aluminum at the limits of the torch.
I switched us to distilled water and low-conductivity anti-freeze, and the problem was solved.
Most "techs" are salesmen who have hoods and gloves.
Steve S
Neither could their "tech".
Turns out the local rental agency was using plain ol' Pennsylvania tap water and automotive antifreeze in the coolers, and we were using the torches on continuous HFAC aluminum at the limits of the torch.
I switched us to distilled water and low-conductivity anti-freeze, and the problem was solved.
Most "techs" are salesmen who have hoods and gloves.
Steve S
suedePflow
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I've decided to just replace the welder. I was originally going to go with a V205T, but I think I'm going to go Blue this time around. I've been wanting a welder with AC for a while anyway, so this is just another excuse that I need to justify the purchase.
Do you know of any killer deals on a Dynasty 200, 210, or 280?
Do you know of any killer deals on a Dynasty 200, 210, or 280?
If you have some spare time on your hands,
try re-soldering some of the connections on the circuit boards.
Often a cold solder joint will cause this sort of problem.
Also, check the color of the pins on any connectors.
If you have a lousy connection, it will create heat and discolor the pin.
Another quick test is to use a non-contact thermometer and scan for hot spots.
If a component is running hot, it will indicate the area of the circuit board that needs attention.
try re-soldering some of the connections on the circuit boards.
Often a cold solder joint will cause this sort of problem.
Also, check the color of the pins on any connectors.
If you have a lousy connection, it will create heat and discolor the pin.
Another quick test is to use a non-contact thermometer and scan for hot spots.
If a component is running hot, it will indicate the area of the circuit board that needs attention.
suedePflow wrote:I fired up my welder yesterday for the first time in a couple weeks, and I noticed the digital display reads zero no matter where the dial is set. Turning the dial still seems to properly change the amperage output, but I cannot see what it's set to until I strike an arc. While welding, the display reads correctly.
I'm hoping this is an easy fix, as I'd really like it to be reading properly. The welder is about 5 years old, so it's out of warranty.
Anybody have any insight on what the problem could be? Any suggestions of things to check?