Hi All
I just ordered my tungstens, 1 box of 2% lanthanated 1/16th and 1 box of 3/32nd 2% lanthanated. Which filler materials should I purchase for the TIG and the Stick electrodes (Not good with the numbers yet, i'm just getting started). I will pick up a bottle of Argon locally unfortunately it will have to be a smaller bottle so I can handle it and fit it in my car.
Thanks
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
Welcome. How big is you machine? And what kind is it? Depending on how many amps you have and what features it has will determine what kinds of rod and rod sizes that will be recomended.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
The machine is an Everlast PowerTig 210EXT, AC\DC 210 amp Tig, 160 amp Stick.Poland308 wrote:Welcome. How big is you machine? And what kind is it? Depending on how many amps you have and what features it has will determine what kinds of rod and rod sizes that will be recomended.
Keith
Artie F. Emm
- Artie F. Emm
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:53 am
You'll need collets and collet bodies to fit your tungsten (1/16 and 3/32) AND your torch. Then you'll need ceramic cups that you select to accommodate the thickness of metal you're welding on. The Miller TIG weld calculator offers a cup size (as well as tungsten size, gas flow rate, amperage, etc.)
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/w ... calculator
If you're ordering online, I've had good experiences ordering consumables from WeldingCity.com.
As for stick electrodes,
/ edit / cut / snip /
I started to respond in detail but I don't want to start a Ford vs. Chevy, swear by - swear at, tastes great - less filling debate. Your choice of electrode can depend on your application, or which one you wind up liking the best. I like 6011 rods cause my Dad taught me on 6011s. Many people find 7018 rods easier to run. 6013 is a low penetration rod suitable for exhaust pipes, for instance. 6010s don't run well on inverters, unless the machine is designed to handle 6010.
If I was going to do it all over again, I would avoid the temptation to over-buy. I must have bought every different size TIG cup and a sample of every different stick electrode in every size I could find, and I just don't use it all.
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/w ... calculator
If you're ordering online, I've had good experiences ordering consumables from WeldingCity.com.
As for stick electrodes,
/ edit / cut / snip /
I started to respond in detail but I don't want to start a Ford vs. Chevy, swear by - swear at, tastes great - less filling debate. Your choice of electrode can depend on your application, or which one you wind up liking the best. I like 6011 rods cause my Dad taught me on 6011s. Many people find 7018 rods easier to run. 6013 is a low penetration rod suitable for exhaust pipes, for instance. 6010s don't run well on inverters, unless the machine is designed to handle 6010.
If I was going to do it all over again, I would avoid the temptation to over-buy. I must have bought every different size TIG cup and a sample of every different stick electrode in every size I could find, and I just don't use it all.
Dave
aka "RTFM"
aka "RTFM"
Thanks for the info and link, I just want to buy enough so I can practice without having to go to the store every other day.Artie F. Emm wrote:You'll need collets and collet bodies to fit your tungsten (1/16 and 3/32) AND your torch. Then you'll need ceramic cups that you select to accommodate the thickness of metal you're welding on. The Miller TIG weld calculator offers a cup size (as well as tungsten size, gas flow rate, amperage, etc.)
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/w ... calculator
If you're ordering online, I've had good experiences ordering consumables from WeldingCity.com.
As for stick electrodes,
/ edit / cut / snip /
I started to respond in detail but I don't want to start a Ford vs. Chevy, swear by - swear at, tastes great - less filling debate. Your choice of electrode can depend on your application, or which one you wind up liking the best. I like 6011 rods cause my Dad taught me on 6011s. Many people find 7018 rods easier to run. 6013 is a low penetration rod suitable for exhaust pipes, for instance. 6010s don't run well on inverters, unless the machine is designed to handle 6010.
If I was going to do it all over again, I would avoid the temptation to over-buy. I must have bought every different size TIG cup and a sample of every different stick electrode in every size I could find, and I just don't use it all.
Keith
Least honorable
- Least honorable
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Guide
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:38 pm
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Location:Quebec,Canada
hey, thought id throw in my two cents as im currently just passed the phase you're going through right now, bought all my rods for my new welder last week. for stick i'd say you cant go wrong with 7018 and 6011, and as someone previously said, 6013 can come in handy for thinner stuff, as for tig i somewhat followed jody's video. the ones i got recommended in a previous post similar to this was: Carbon steel: 70-s2 , stainless steel: 308-L, aluminum: 4943.
regards
noah
regards
noah
Awesome, added to the list. ThanxLeast honorable wrote:hey, thought id throw in my two cents as im currently just passed the phase you're going through right now, bought all my rods for my new welder last week. for stick i'd say you cant go wrong with 7018 and 6011, and as someone previously said, 6013 can come in handy for thinner stuff, as for tig i somewhat followed jody's video. the ones i got recommended in a previous post similar to this was: Carbon steel: 70-s2 , stainless steel: 308-L, aluminum: 4943.
regards
noah
Keith
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