I recently noticed it seemed like I couldn't see as well as usual when tig welding so I cleaned my glasses and cheater and tried again. Still seemed harder to see than usual for some reason. I changed from 11 to 10 on the shade on my Digital Elite and it was better but still not right. So after reading another thread on here a while back I looked at my lighting and realized I only had a 60 watt bulb above my table and although I have a florescent light I hadn't been turning it on for some reason. So I grabbed a piece of that aluminum flashing that comes in a roll and stuffed it above the bulb and it made a big difference reflecting more light. Then I changed to a 100 watt bulb to further enhance it. Still not satisfied although happier, I realized there was some light getting in from behind me as there are skylights in my workshop and also lights on the tall ceiling. So i wrapped a welding jacket around my neck and wow what a difference. I figured out the problem. Then I noticed light coming in from under the front of the hood too. So I had my wife make me a "hoodie" with a neck nape that wraps around the front with some velcro and wow, what a difference. I guess I usually weld with the big rollup door open but with the new puppy I have been keeping it closed and that caused all the issues, but I am glad to have a fix. Probably old news to a lot of you but to the noobs it may be beneficial.
- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
I have this problem with reflected light (and sparks) when welding in a close quaters area. I had a Speedglas 9002 and now have a Speedglas 9100.
For the 9002, they make a cover that valcros onto the top of the hood, goes over the back and press-studs onto the aie hose (Adflow model)
On the 9100 model with the flip front, they don't make a cover that goes over the WHOLE hood, only the back of your head. I had my Mother inlaw cut the crown off an old fire resistant hood and sew some velcro onto it along the front. I got the stick on opposite side and stuck it along the front edge, just behind the grey lens surround. This stops the sparks and light from coming it and (in the case of the light) obscuring the lens.
For the 9002, they make a cover that valcros onto the top of the hood, goes over the back and press-studs onto the aie hose (Adflow model)
On the 9100 model with the flip front, they don't make a cover that goes over the WHOLE hood, only the back of your head. I had my Mother inlaw cut the crown off an old fire resistant hood and sew some velcro onto it along the front. I got the stick on opposite side and stuck it along the front edge, just behind the grey lens surround. This stops the sparks and light from coming it and (in the case of the light) obscuring the lens.
All I know is it made a huge difference for the better. I think the one she made me could use a few mods as it is cumbersome to put a hoodie over the helmet and would be better attached with velcro. I have a few other cheapo hoods she can use before we mod the Miller Digital Elite. 
I also have some light enter the front but it doesn't bother me as much as I always wear a dark shirt and my welding jacket. But the little Tillman leather bib that attaches to the front of the helmet may be all I need for that issue.
I think the one she made me could use a few mods as it is cumbersome to put a hoodie over the helmet and would be better attached with velcro. I have a few other cheapo hoods she can use before we mod the Miller Digital Elite. I also have some light enter the front but it doesn't bother me as much as I always wear a dark shirt and my welding jacket. But the little Tillman leather bib that attaches to the front of the helmet may be all I need for that issue.