General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
User avatar

TraditionalToolworks wrote: They sure gave Justin a spankin' over on WeldingWeb, heh? :roll:

I know he talks fast and is annoying, but he's a great fabricator and quite a good tig welder. Seems to teach a lot of tig classes in Las Vegas.
I guess I missed that, was that recently?
Richard
Website
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

LtBadd wrote:I guess I missed that, was that recently?
Yeah, in a thread by Schultz asking for advice on tig welding, "Looking for some resources on learning to TIG". It's in the mig/tig/stick forum.

I did defend the guy, not that I agree with his style, but he's not one of the worst guys on the web either. ;)

I think he's a heck of a fabricator, he could work circles around me on old vintage autos, despite him being much younger than me.

They merely said he was annoying, not that they disagreed with him.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
DavidR8
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:50 am
  • Location:
    Vancouver, Canada

The video that Oscar linked to above has some interesting advice.
Recommends learning with standard cups, no gas lenses or Fupa cups. Just get the basics down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
David
Millermatic 130
Primeweld 225
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

DavidR8 wrote:The video that Oscar linked to above has some interesting advice.
Recommends learning with standard cups, no gas lenses or Fupa cups. Just get the basics down.
I kind of agree with this, but am not as adamant about the gas lenses, and here's why.

While I did use my first tig machine with standard consumables for a month or more before I bought a stubby kit, I find it much more convenient to use the stubby kit as it reduces the size and distance one needs to be from the work. This is especially true when I'm welding on my small welding table using an aluminum chill block. Also, for the same reason that using a #5 cup to save gas, the gas lens saves gas also. I can't remember if that is one of his recommendations, I haven't watched the above video in a while. Finally, the cost of a gas lens is fairly small and will pay for itself with the gas savings, I *think*, but haven't done any scientific studies on it. I use a #5 cup with a 3/32" gas lens/collet most all of the time.

Also, you need to take some of what he says with a grain of salt, he can tig with his hand behind his back, standing on his head, and I am not as proficient as that. Is a gas lens a crutch for me? I guess you could say so, but his view is but one view. I'm gonna watch that video now.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

DavidR8 wrote:Recommends learning with standard cups, no gas lenses or Fupa cups. Just get the basics down.
Watched the video again, and here's a couple comments.

At 18:50 he states, twice, "don't waste your argon", "don't waste your argon".

I agree with what he's suggesting in general and it's a very useful video, but I'm not using a gas lens to cover up any of my welds, as I've stated I'm using it to save gas and shorten my torch to make it more comfortable when welding. I most often use a #5, maybe it would be trying to cover up my crappy welds if I was using a #10 or a #12, but even I do use a #8 sometimes.

I also would like to point out that he gives a special thanks to weldmetalsonline.com for sponsoring the video and that's his company, so in reality he's giving a blatant plug to sell coupons, and my guess is maybe he would do the same for gas lenses if he sold them.

I try to take most of this stuff with a grain of salt, Jody also plugs his Weldmonger store also, but I still don't feel violated, not that I do by Justin, there just seems to be some double standard in him encouraging you to buy coupons from weldmetalsonline.com when it's his company. At least Jody comes out and tells you that's how he supports the videos, in Justin's case it seems slightly deceiving.

If you need coupons, Jonathan Lewis of Superior Welding and Fab sells them also and has a comparable price. Jonathan carries more sizes, but not the puzzles and welding art that weldmetalsonline does. His website is: https://www.superiorweldandfab.com/ And Jonathan does the WTAT podcast with Jody and Roy. ;)
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
DavidR8
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:50 am
  • Location:
    Vancouver, Canada

TraditionalToolworks wrote:
DavidR8 wrote:Recommends learning with standard cups, no gas lenses or Fupa cups. Just get the basics down.
Watched the video again, and here's a couple comments.

At 18:50 he states, twice, "don't waste your argon", "don't waste your argon".

I agree with what he's suggesting in general and it's a very useful video, but I'm not using a gas lens to cover up any of my welds, as I've stated I'm using it to save gas and shorten my torch to make it more comfortable when welding. I most often use a #5, maybe it would be trying to cover up my crappy welds if I was using a #10 or a #12, but even I do use a #8 sometimes.

I also would like to point out that he gives a special thanks to weldmetalsonline.com for sponsoring the video and that's his company, so in reality he's giving a blatant plug to sell coupons, and my guess is maybe he would do the same for gas lenses if he sold them.

I try to take most of this stuff with a grain of salt, Jody also plugs his Weldmonger store also, but I still don't feel violated, not that I do by Justin, there just seems to be some double standard in him encouraging you to buy coupons from weldmetalsonline.com when it's his company. At least Jody comes out and tells you that's how he supports the videos, in Justin's case it seems slightly deceiving.

If you need coupons, Jonathan Lewis of Superior Welding and Fab sells them also and has a comparable price. Jonathan carries more sizes, but not the puzzles and welding art that weldmetalsonline does. His website is: https://www.superiorweldandfab.com/ And Jonathan does the WTAT podcast with Jody and Roy. ;)
Thanks for the heads up on weldmetalsonline.com. It does seem a bit devious to not be clear that he owns the store.
I will check out superiorweldand fab.
I find him a bit annoying to watch, much prefer Jody, a little more my style.
David
Millermatic 130
Primeweld 225
Spartan
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Mar 06, 2020 8:59 pm

TraditionalToolworks wrote:I agree with what he's suggesting in general and it's a very useful video, but I'm not using a gas lens to cover up any of my welds, as I've stated I'm using it to save gas and shorten my torch to make it more comfortable when welding. I most often use a #5, maybe it would be trying to cover up my crappy welds if I was using a #10 or a #12, but even I do use a #8 sometimes.
I disagree with the sentiment that gas lenses can be used to cover up crappy welds. Providing more/adequate/more adequate shielding gas is not a cover up for a crappy weld bead like a grinder or a pulse wash-over is a cover up. Using good shielding gas tools is a best practice in my opinion, not a cover up, and while it makes good welds look even better, it won't make a crappy weld look good, IMO.

As for learning on the basics (traditional collet bodies/cups in this specific case), I agree that learning the basics is often a good idea, but I don't think it is necessary or applicable here. For me, traditional collets/cups are not the basics, they are old technology that has been superseded by gas lenses for ALMOST all welding applications. To me, it almost seems like telling someone they need to learn TIG welding on an old 60Hz transformer machine so that they can "learn the basics".

Nah. Not really necessary or practical, IMO. Embrace the technology. Embrace the progress.
Last edited by Spartan on Mon May 11, 2020 11:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Spartan
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Mar 06, 2020 8:59 pm

TraditionalToolworks wrote:Even though it does splinter, I use 2% lanthanated as my sole tungsten, have only used ceriated once.
The only times (plural) I have seen my 2% lanthanateds splinter is when I broke the tungsten on a bench edge when trimming it to length. Have never had it splinter when I cut the tungstens to length with an abrasive cutoff wheel, which is my preferred method.
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Spartan wrote:To me, it almost seems like telling someone they need to learn TIG welding on an old 60Hz transformer machine so that they can "learn the basics".
Now you're sounding like WeldingWeb... :lol:
Spartan wrote:Nah. Not really necessary or practical, IMO. Embrace the technology. Embrace the progress.
Well put, and this is very true that gas lenses are a better mouse trap, IMO. No reason not to use them. Doesn't require too many of them, they last a long time.
Spartan wrote:The only times (plural) I have seen my 2% lanthanateds splinter is when I broke the tungsten on a bench edge when trimming it to length. Have never had it splinter when I cut the tungstens to length with an abrasive cutoff wheel, which is my preferred method.
Indeed, I don't have the problem with them splintering, I just meant that this is the complaint some people argue against their use. Even when I was starting out, I didn't care, I would just clamp 'em tightly in the vise and wack the end off with a hammer...since you need to grind the end down I never really saw a problem with splintering.

This does remind me of something else in the video from TFS above, in that he suggests cutting your tungsten in 1/3rds to get more tungsten. However, I did start out doing that but quickly found that I had a number of small sections of tungsten that were not able to sharpen again. For this reason I split my tungstens in 2 so I only have 2 small unusable sections rather than 3. There is a good case to be made to just leave the tungsten full length so you only have 1 small section of unusable, but the reason I don't like doing that is I prefer to use the medium size back cap and a full 7" length of tungsten won't fit in the medium, it requires a tall. I don't like using the large back cap, although it does work. I could probably get used to it if I used it all the time.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

DavidR8 wrote:I find him a bit annoying to watch, much prefer Jody, a little more my style.
He's not bad though, he's a good welder, IMO. He's a fast welder also, does a lot of tube, but just a good welder in general.

He's a great fabricator, something not every good welder can do.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

I don't mind Justin myself. Some of his videos are hard to follow sometimes and the reason being for me is I don't have a lot of the equipment that a professional shop has. Sometimes I've seen videos that he posted like it was something easy to do and it required some form of CAD software and a burn table to accomplish the job. I do agree he should come out and say that WeldMetals online is his business. I kind of put that together after I saw that they were both located on the same street in Las Vegas.

I have yet to use a short back cap as I learned on a long back cap and have gotten use to wrapping my first finger around it, maybe a bad habit but, I plan to try all back cap sizes soon so I will need to cut at least one or two tungsten down to test.
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Thatkid2diesel wrote:I don't mind Justin myself. Some of his videos are hard to follow sometimes and the reason being for me is I don't have a lot of the equipment that a professional shop has.
Yeah, he has some cool toys that he uses to cut pieces for some of his projects. He also goes to other fab shops to get material in some cases, so he seems to work smart.
Thatkid2diesel wrote:I have yet to use a short back cap as I learned on a long back cap and have gotten use to wrapping my first finger around it, maybe a bad habit but, I plan to try all back cap sizes soon so I will need to cut at least one or two tungsten down to test.
One of the nice things about the Primeweld is since it comes with a CK torch, and a decent pedal, there's not much to get that is not included. And even so, a stinger is cheap, if people even need one, as-is a decent ground clamp. The one included is not bad looking, but I've never used it as I have my own. Even the argon hose from the regulator to the machine is better than most of the Chinese machines, although I don't use it either. :roll:

I'm very happy with mine given my current finance...I just called my electrical contractor to find out how the inspection for a shop/home I'm building, supposed to be inspected soon...there's another $5k out my pocket...for the pole, electrical, lines to foundation and panel. :oops:
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

I did have to buy tig rod and some consumables, then on top of that I went ahead and bought the heavy duty welding cart tonight from Harbor freight to help organize all my welders consumables stick electrodes etc. I knew it would be an up front cost but well worth it. I should be all set now. I will use the standard ground clamp for now i'd say and maybe upgrade later if needed.

It doesn't take long for costs to add up on a project like that. It will be worth it in the end.
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

I'm hopeful to get everything together for the tig welder cart and all assembled and ready to go by the following weekend. I got confirmation it shipped but haven't seen it move yet. I know it won't be this weekend but maybe the next.
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Thatkid2diesel wrote:It doesn't take long for costs to add up on a project like that. It will be worth it in the end.
Indeed, tig is a can of worms...just figuring out the sharpening, and getting an argon tank and gas in order, gloves, grinders, etc...granted all that stuff is not absolutely needed and we all have some of it, but there's just things to buy. Tungsten and filler and a given, gotta have that...and you need more than one type of filler depending on what you're welding.

You'll be fine with the provided ground clamp, even the stinger isn't too bad, better than what Everlast/AHP supply.

it is pretty much ready to go, even include a tungsten I believe. Since it's my 2nd tig machine I had a lot of needed stuff and have gone through much of the initial curve. That helps. I still stuck a couple tungstens over the past couple weeks...and jammed a filler or two, blew a couple holes in material...:lol: Sure wasn't like when I first started... :oops:
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

Yes I ordered a good amount of er70s-6, 5lb of 4043 and some 308. It was a hard sell to my wife to buy it all. I had been mentioning it for months and I finally got the green light. I'm excited to give it a go. I ordered 10 pack of 3/32 2% lanthanated and 2% ceriated. I was just going to get 2 packs of lanthanated but the ceriated I came across was a smoking deal I couldn't pass up.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Thatkid2diesel wrote:Yes I ordered a good amount of er70s-6, 5lb of 4043 and some 308. It was a hard sell to my wife to buy it all. I had been mentioning it for months and I finally got the green light. I'm excited to give it a go. I ordered 10 pack of 3/32 2% lanthanated and 2% ceriated. I was just going to get 2 packs of lanthanated but the ceriated I came across was a smoking deal I couldn't pass up.
Sounds like you have your bases covered. Do you have an argon tank already? Plan to rent one?

I've used both ER70S0-2 and ER70S-6, Silicon Bronze, 308L, even some 312 I think as I have bought these over the past couple years. I have been using some 4043 now that I have AC and want to get some 4943. You have what you need to get going. Nothing wrong with ceriated, or even thoriated although it has radiation in it, the gas company in my area only uses thoriated. I don't though. :lol:
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
vdotmatrix
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Nov 12, 2013 11:03 pm
  • Location:
    Northern Virginia

I have the 201xd. It is my first machine and cannot say anything bad about it. The primeweld has more features to control and because of a few extra control/adjustment parameters, i suppose i would have gotten that one....but so far, i use mine on 240v on steel, and recently discovered pulse tig welding... pretty stoked!
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

TraditionalToolworks wrote:
Thatkid2diesel wrote:Yes I ordered a good amount of er70s-6, 5lb of 4043 and some 308. It was a hard sell to my wife to buy it all. I had been mentioning it for months and I finally got the green light. I'm excited to give it a go. I ordered 10 pack of 3/32 2% lanthanated and 2% ceriated. I was just going to get 2 packs of lanthanated but the ceriated I came across was a smoking deal I couldn't pass up.
Sounds like you have your bases covered. Do you have an argon tank already? Plan to rent one?

I've used both ER70S0-2 and ER70S-6, Silicon Bronze, 308L, even some 312 I think as I have bought these over the past couple years. I have been using some 4043 now that I have AC and want to get some 4943. You have what you need to get going. Nothing wrong with ceriated, or even thoriated although it has radiation in it, the gas company in my area only uses thoriated. I don't though. [emoji38]
I have the biggest 100% argon tank my LWS would sell without rent so I believe it's an 80cf tank. I have a spool gun for my iron man 210 is why I originally bought the argon tank. Plenty for what I used a welder for. My C25 tank is the same size and it holds up for months with the amount of welding I typically do. I believe I have everything I wanted to get plus some extras on order. The primeweld came in today so I hope to get it setup tomorrow. I also pulled the trigger on a cheap black and decker rotary tool and a tungsten mate head to sharpen with. I figured it comes with 3 diamond wheels and they are generic 30mm I can get replacements cheap that I would just go for it while I was getting everything else. I'll post a pic tomorrow hopefully once I get the cart put together and everything setup.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

vdotmatrix wrote:I have the 201xd. It is my first machine and cannot say anything bad about it. The primeweld has more features to control and because of a few extra control/adjustment parameters, i suppose i would have gotten that one....but so far, i use mine on 240v on steel, and recently discovered pulse tig welding... pretty stoked!
I was really torn between the two, but my biggest problem with the 201xd was the roto head that came with it. I wanted a flex head torch and by the time I got that I'd be at prime weld money. If it had a flex head out of the box it would have been an even harder choice. After multiple users raved on here about the prime weld and the tech support it just made sense to go that route for me. But the 201xd has plenty of good things going for it as well.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Thatkid2diesel wrote:But the 201xd has plenty of good things going for it as well.
I agree, they seem pretty comparable aside from minor differences. The AHP was popular before the Primeweld even hit the market. They have a big following. I do have an Everlast i-Tig 201, I replaced every accessory and consumable that came with it. Now I have those for my Primeweld. My Everlast came with a Chinese 26 flex hose torch, and I replaced the head for a flex head, so it's nice to have that for up to 225 amps. I don't plan to be welding at the top of the machine envelope too much.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

TraditionalToolworks wrote:
Thatkid2diesel wrote:But the 201xd has plenty of good things going for it as well.
I agree, they seem pretty comparable aside from minor differences. The AHP was popular before the Primeweld even hit the market. They have a big following. I do have an Everlast i-Tig 201, I replaced every accessory and consumable that came with it. Now I have those for my Primeweld. My Everlast came with a Chinese 26 flex hose torch, and I replaced the head for a flex head, so it's nice to have that for up to 225 amps. I don't plan to be welding at the top of the machine envelope too much.
Yeah I couldn't deal with the roto head as my everyday torch, and with all the reviews I got on here I had to go primeweld. I opened the box up to snag the manual out. Very impressed with the amount of detail in the manual.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Thatkid2diesel wrote:]Yeah I couldn't deal with the roto head as my everyday torch, and with all the reviews I got on here I had to go primeweld. I opened the box up to snag the manual out. Very impressed with the amount of detail in the manual
One thing nice about the roto-head is you can swap heads really easily, and I think AHP ships both a 9 and 17 heads with it. That could be handle. I hear good things about that. CK calls it a flex-loc.

It's the hose that's where most of the value is, I don't trust the Chinese hoses. I've read about more than a few failures and BillE.D had an Everlast fail recently as I recall. The host is the most expensive piece though, so it makes sense that CK charges a premium for them. Their heads are about 3x the cost of the Chinese imports.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
Thatkid2diesel
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:38 am
  • Location:
    Clifton Forge, Virginia

Got the cart put together today, and the primeweld out of the box. Didn't get to weld any today. Been working to get the garage cleaned up. Very happy with the cart setup though. Hoping to get welding one day this week.ImageImageImageImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Hobart Ironman 210
Primeweld Tig225x
Primeweld 160st
TraditionalToolworks
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
  • Location:
    San Jose / Kelseyville

Nice setup there!

I need to get out to the garage, I'm gonna build a cart for mine.
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
Post Reply