General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
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Whats better? Cold 1inch welds peened, or preheat and a weld?
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

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Preheat and then get to welding. In that video you see him peening when he chips the slag. It is what I do, although I never really thought of it in that way.
If you decide to weld long or little passed is really up to you. I have done it both ways with success.
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So if I weld it, should I peen the crap out of, it or toss it in the sand immedietly?
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Peening should be done while you are welding, in between passes, as far as I remember.
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I mean when I'm done welding, right after I flip my helmet up, should I peen the weld, or put it in the sand?
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

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Peen it, but don't hammer the daylights out of it and stick it in the sand. If you have grinding to do/any cleanup you can do that first before you stick it in. Being out for a few minutes won't hurt a thing. Just don't leave it out to where it starts to really cool.

I cant remember if I mentioned this but make sure you heat the whole part not just where you are welding.
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I will check back in the morning with you. Give you a deal, you show pictures of your cast repair and tomorrow I will show you mine.
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I'll see if I can swing it, I'm always busy.
It might even be a while before I even do this vice. :lol:

~John

just for your amusement, here's the WW thread.
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?36 ... ice-Repair
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

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Used piston rings are an inexpensive alternative for cast rods.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc-Q15yfq-Q
AKweldshop wrote:Ok Guys, got a vice repair job I'm doing, It was broken by a dillwipp with a 4ft pipe.
Then it was "repaired" with stick. 7018 to be exact.
It then recracked.
So I'm gonna try and repair it.
You can see the weld, full of porosity and deep cracks.
So, I ground it out, I'm still grinding, wire wheeling and degreasing.
So I am looking for a solid welding process, I have access to some good mig, stick, and tig welders.
But what stick electrode, mig wire, or tig rod would do the Job????
I'm not willing to pay outrages prices, like $87 for 1lb of nickel rods!!! no way....
What would you use? ~John
echosixmike
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Lincoln makes a stick rod called "Ferroweld", my LWS carries them, well under $10/lb. I'd try 309SS if I had it. I've always been told the post heat is the key, as cast iron has all sorts of internal stresses already and it's granularity almost guarantees uneven cooling and increased stress, which is doubleplus ungood with something as brittle as iron. S/F....Ken M
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I believe thing like ferro weld leave an unmachinable deposit, because of the lower nickel. Hence the lower cost.

Mick
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Hey John,
Not trying to be stupid or anything, and I didn't read all of the posts, but are you sure that it is cast iron? I have run across a lot of vises that were cast steel not cast iron. Just a thought.
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Well I'm not sure, It made really fine sparks.
And It had been welded a before with 7018 and the weld was loaded with cracks.
It could be cast steel, In that case, I could just preheat, post heat and 7018.
I think I'll use 309 tig, Cause that seems like a bullet proof choice, (from what I've heard)

~John
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Jodys ( im sure he didnt invent it ) tig puddle test will tell you right quick whether its cast iron or cast steel. Remember the puddle the manifold and file trick??
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AKweldshop wrote:Ok, I might give those a try, I think there's a Tractor Supply about an hour from me, never been to it though.
We don't have TS up here...
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tomorrow I will give it a try.
If the Puddle hardens and I can't file it, Then I've got some sensitive material, Right?
But if I can file it easy I shouldn't have any trouble with cracking Right?
Thanks for the tip, I'd forgotten that trick.

John~
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AKmud wrote:
AKweldshop wrote:Ok, I might give those a try, I think there's a Tractor Supply about an hour from me, never been to it though.
We don't have TS up here...
Didn't they just open one up in South Anchorage?
I though I heard that somewhere.
I'll double check.
~John
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I guess I was wrong, there's no TS in AK.
Thought I heard it somewhere, But I guess I was wrong.
Oh well.
~John
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I think thats the general idea, because of the large amount of carbon in most cast irons.
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I wish...

I've visited a few "down south". I could spend a lot of money in there... :shock:
AKweldshop wrote:
AKmud wrote:
AKweldshop wrote:Ok, I might give those a try, I think there's a Tractor Supply about an hour from me, never been to it though.
We don't have TS up here...
Didn't they just open one up in South Anchorage?
I though I heard that somewhere.
I'll double check.
~John
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AKmud wrote:I wish...

I've visited a few "down south". I could spend a lot of money in there... :shock:


We don't have TS up here...


There's always AIH.... ;)
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Okay Mick(and everyone else)
I took my tig torch at 135amps, and pop'd a tack and it gouged into the metal made all kinds of pitting and porosity,
I pop'd a on my other vice and is made a tack that was beautiful.
I also tacked up a filet and ran it same EVERYTHING and it came out ok.
Is the metal that crappy?
John~~
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its nasty couldn;t get a puddle, bead or nothing.
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Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
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John,
If I am not mistaken that would be cast iron and the other vise cast steel.
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