Welding Tips and Tricks

So I have a 60 gallon air compressor now and it is getting very old and sending tons of water and rust through my air lines and into my plasma cutter and tools. I even have three water separators . I went to lowes they a have some kobalt ones but read some bad reviews . So my question is what brand do you guys use? Or recommend ? I use air tools quite a bit and do t no what if a new 60 gallon will keep up well or if I should just skip to an 80 gallon? I do quite a bit of plasma cutting that's why I'm also wondering. Just want to get a good quality compressor that's going to last a long time and not have to wait for it to keep up with me. Any feed back would be much appreciated ! Thanks! M.C.M.

Ten years ago, I bought a pressure pot sand blaster. It came with a big ass air dryer. It works extremely well. The slightest bit of dampness in this type of blaster clogs the hell out of the abrasive line. I looked up the dryer when I got the kit because it was so damn big. It's almost as big as my size 9 sneeker. I don't remember what the brand is but I do remember that it is a $200 air dryer.
You probably didn't wanna read that $200 bit. Quality costs $$$. Your plasma cutter will appreciate this.

Mid coast metal wrote:So I have a 60 gallon air compressor now and it is getting very old and sending tons of water and rust through my air lines and into my plasma cutter and tools. I even have three water separators . I went to lowes they a have some kobalt ones but read some bad reviews . So my question is what brand do you guys use? Or recommend ? I use air tools quite a bit and do t no what if a new 60 gallon will keep up well or if I should just skip to an 80 gallon? I do quite a bit of plasma cutting that's why I'm also wondering. Just want to get a good quality compressor that's going to last a long time and not have to wait for it to keep up with me. Any feed back would be much appreciated ! Thanks! M.C.M.

I have 2 Kobalt 60 gallon compressors and I have no complaints. One is a backup but my main compressor has run perfectly for over 4 years no problems. I would suggest the 80 gallon if you use air tools. My 60 keeps up easily with small tools and is adequate for bigger tools but you can never have enough air. I drain the storage tank once a month and bought a really good water trap to keep water out of my plasma. Thumbs up on Kobalt but you just never know. They have a good warranty so I bought 2 incase one ever goes down but so far so good.

Ok, great to know. I will deffinetly go out and buy a nice water separator for it . The water separators I got were only 30 $ so they must just not be up to the job. Yea 200 hurts haha but if it means keeping my plasma happy guess I gotta do it ! your right seams like you can never have enough air in your lines, guess I should just invest in the 80 gallon. Thanks for the quick responses guys, much appreciated!

No problem. I have seen air driers on Craigslist for decent prices so maybe check there. Draining the water out of your tank regularly does wonders too. My friend had a compressor that used to shoot water into his air tools so I asked him if he ever drained his tank. He said he had never done it...didn't know he could or should. I bet we drained 10 gallons of water out of that 30 gallon tank. Cleared up the water problem a bit. Good luck on your new compressor!

I have a Champion 80 gallon 5HP and have been happy with it. Bought it in 2008 and its running strong today. Here is the model I have but do some research for best prices if interested. I bought mine from McGuire Air Compressors in NC.

http://www.mile-x.com/champion-vrv5-8-5 ... gQodlz0MQg

You may also want to check out Quincy compressors...

electric auto drains and easy to install and reasonable.
craig

Go with an 80gal. Even as a hobbyist, it's what I would consider absolute bare minimum if you every plan to use air tools like grinders and sanders. I have an 80gal IR 5HP two-stage, 15-16ish CFM compressor I bought from Tractor Supply for $1000. It works awesome, but even a 5" air-grinder will bring it to it's knees QUICK. I then tied my 2HP, 20gal IR 5.5 CFM compressor using a one-way pneumatic valve to get it just a smidge over 21 CFM, and even then it's just barely enough to keep up. My 7" air girnder will make the whole thing come crashing down in about 10min (pressure goes below 80psi within the 3/4" Rapid Air system).

All in all, go big or go home when it comes to air.

They cost more but are well worth the price look into Rolair compressors. Used to work for a Rolair dealer and did the repair and maintenance on these. We even had the larger models supplying air to the whole shop and warehouse.

Get this one it's overkill and you will never run out of air
https://www.rolair.com/products/air-com ... industrial

I went through three compressors buying from the local loves/menards/home depot. I have a small marine shop, we use a lot of air. Finally I broke down and bought a saylor beal I think its called. Pricey but it has been going strong, bonus is that it is repairable by the shop that sold it to me, if it breaks they send out a truck and fix it. This is important because we need air everyday. It never gets turned off except to maintain. I am of the type that says "never be scared to buy the best, you will seldom be dissatisfied!"

Years and years ago I bought a Kellogg 60 gal from a friend who was closing down a Sinclair gas station, it's a 1966 and the only thing I have ever done to it was put a new set of belts on it! Not a bad investment for $300.00 Also have a Saylor Beall 5hp 80 that has been a great unit, "they make them about a 1/4 mile down the street from my work" I use a water separator in front of a Devilbiss DAD500, it's big time overkill but I already had it for when I used to paint cars.

Even if you have separators, the routing of the plumbing can produce worse/better results. Best to have your service lines running above the separator, and the filters/separators plumbed in low (gravity draws moisture down). If your tank is rusting, consider its location; indoors or outdoors? Is your climate fluctuating where condensation builds up from overnight low temps and then the tank is sitting in direct sunlight? Drain the tank regularly.

If you replace the unit, refurbish the tank and plumb it into your new system as an auxiliary storage tank for more air. This allows a smaller main compressor to keep up with longer duty cycle use. Main Compressor -> Auxiliary -> Service lines. you draw down the auxiliary and replenish it with the main compressor.

Lastly, consider the piping you used. Is it black pipe? Run of the mill galvanized? Copper? Poly tubing? Lots to planning a long term and high use air compressor system...

cj737 wrote:Even if you have separators, the routing of the plumbing can produce worse/better results. Best to have your service lines running above the separator, and the filters/separators plumbed in low (gravity draws moisture down). If your tank is rusting, consider its location; indoors or outdoors? Is your climate fluctuating where condensation builds up from overnight low temps and then the tank is sitting in direct sunlight? Drain the tank regularly.

If you replace the unit, refurbish the tank and plumb it into your new system as an auxiliary storage tank for more air. This allows a smaller main compressor to keep up with longer duty cycle use. Main Compressor -> Auxiliary -> Service lines. you draw down the auxiliary and replenish it with the main compressor.

Lastly, consider the piping you used. Is it black pipe? Run of the mill galvanized? Copper? Poly tubing? Lots to planning a long term and high use air compressor system...

For sure! When I ran my piping it is above everything and mounted on a angle for any moisture to drain, also installed ball valves to drains mounted along the runs so I can periodically drain any excess moisture.

Maintainance is key for air compressor longevity. If you get a big compressor stay away from the oilless ones. Make sure you track the hours and change based on the run hours. get good oil specifically for air compressors. Invest in a good auto blow down there 200$ but will save your tank especially on anything over 30 gallons. If your in a humid environment concidered pulling you air from a conditioned space. Locate your compressor in a place so it can get adaquate cooling. Most fly wheels on bigger compressors have fins built into them to help move air to keep it cool but if you put it too close to a wall ( or my personal favorite) build a box around it to cut down on noise your just shortening the life of you new investment.

eletric auto tank drains are not overly expensive and are easy
to install. worth the time and money.
craig

motox wrote:eletric auto tank drains are not overly expensive and are easy
to install. worth the time and money.
craig

x2..wet air will totally wreck your air tools. I don't know about anyone else but I have good air tools and they were Damned expensive and I made sure I kept the water out...$250 dollar water-separater or $400 3/4" Air wrench plus everything else that runs on air..not to mention it kills your plasma cutter consumables.Cheap insurance. Even a $250 dollar separater is a cheap one.

DIY? It isn't hard. Surplus Center out of Lincoln NE has a line of Rolair compressors plus motors, belts and pulleys. Plus plumbing and switches. If you have a welder and good fab skills, its a fun project. I've done three re-pumps.

ASME tanks from pre 1998 have thicker walls since the code changed then for lower temp service.. Used to be no derating for temperature until carbon steel went above 600 F. So after 1998, tanks got thinner. Same with LPG. And LPG tanks make great air receivers.

If your real lucky you might find a tank from the 50's. Most of them were made with ship steel from decommissioned stuff. Often there still 5/8 - 3/4 thick.

dirtmidget33 wrote:Get this one it's overkill and you will never run out of air
https://www.rolair.com/products/air-com ... industrial

Ain't that the truth! Dang, 15-20HP, I better not run out of air!