General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
Farmwelding
- Farmwelding
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:37 pm
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Location:Wisconsin
Recently I've been working on a rock box for a tractor on my uncles farm and all he has is a passive shade and after all the welding I noticed that I spent a good amount of time trying to line up the mig gun. They were mostly short runs under 5". Line up once and sometimes I would have to check again because I felt like it moved to much. I also noticed that sometimes the way the light came in I could barely see the puddle so I missed or went to far adding to my grinding time. So I lost a lot of time due to using a passive shade. I wish I could have had a lighter shade as well. Now I am not complaining just making an observation of productivity.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
- MinnesotaDave
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
With a passive I touch the nozzle edge, drop my lid, raise the gun as I pull the trigger - then it never moves when it shouldn't.
I do the same for TIG.
Make sure your mask and lenses are clean and scratch free.
Old lenses are usually not actually clear because of all the small scratches from cleaning.
The slight haze reduces the clarity and makes it seem "darker."
Your reduced productivity is likely a matter of not being experienced with passive lids.
I do the same for TIG.
Make sure your mask and lenses are clean and scratch free.
Old lenses are usually not actually clear because of all the small scratches from cleaning.
The slight haze reduces the clarity and makes it seem "darker."
Your reduced productivity is likely a matter of not being experienced with passive lids.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Farmwelding
- Farmwelding
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:37 pm
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Location:Wisconsin
I suppose that is part of it as well. It is also a very cheap hood so the way it sits isn't the best.MinnesotaDave wrote:With a passive I touch the nozzle edge, drop my lid, raise the gun as I pull the trigger - then it never moves when it shouldn't.
I do the same for TIG.
Make sure your mask and lenses are clean and scratch free.
Old lenses are usually not actually clear because of all the small scratches from cleaning.
The slight haze reduces the clarity and makes it seem "darker."
Your reduced productivity is likely a matter of not being experienced with passive lids.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
What I have been said and what I noticed as weel:
Passive are better for the ones who wear progressive glasses, because better transparency
In real work environment most welders use passive helmets, (I was said)
The ones that have LCD are using very expensive ones (about 300 USD and more)
I have a clearer view with my passive mask, but sometime the regulation from 11 to 10 or so misses me
I added magnifier glasses x1.5 and they help
2 months ago I really could not use the passive type, closing the cover with one hand while beginning to start the electrode, but now I can do it
I find a trick, which is to start the rod a little farther with a very light drag, soon it create sparks they are enough to verify my location
The head motion to lower the mask is certainly a good method (but not good for the neck I was said)
the progressive glasses are really a hassle for motions left to right for instance. While being sure (visually ) I am going straight the weld bead is lowering, so I use as much as possible tactile feel of square motions
Passive are better for the ones who wear progressive glasses, because better transparency
In real work environment most welders use passive helmets, (I was said)
The ones that have LCD are using very expensive ones (about 300 USD and more)
I have a clearer view with my passive mask, but sometime the regulation from 11 to 10 or so misses me
I added magnifier glasses x1.5 and they help
2 months ago I really could not use the passive type, closing the cover with one hand while beginning to start the electrode, but now I can do it
I find a trick, which is to start the rod a little farther with a very light drag, soon it create sparks they are enough to verify my location
The head motion to lower the mask is certainly a good method (but not good for the neck I was said)
the progressive glasses are really a hassle for motions left to right for instance. While being sure (visually ) I am going straight the weld bead is lowering, so I use as much as possible tactile feel of square motions
Last edited by olek on Thu Jun 22, 2017 12:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
Bobby Sixguns
- Bobby Sixguns
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New Member
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Joined:Mon Jan 05, 2015 9:48 pm
I think once you get use to using a passive lense your productivity will be about the same as with the auto-darkening. As MinnesotaDave stated a few of the tricks he uses, I do similar things, the more you use the passive you'll find tricks that work good for you. Keep a few different lense shades handy as well.
MinnesotaDave wrote:
Your reduced productivity is likely a matter of not being experienced with passive lids.
I agree completely. I've used an old school Jackson for decades except when working in places that require you to use theirs.Bobby Sixguns wrote:I think once you get use to using a passive lense your productivity will be about the same as with the auto-darkening. As MinnesotaDave stated a few of the tricks he uses, I do similar things, the more you use the passive you'll find tricks that work good for you. Keep a few different lense shades handy as well.
I like some of the features of Digital Elite and Lincoln equivalent, but they are relatively heavy. After using the Jackson for so long they make it feel like someone has put a 10lb weight on your head.
I have the Jackson set so it will flip down pretty easily with a slight nod, and I think if there is any kind of time advantage with the auto-darkener it is insignificant, but only a stop watch could say for sure.
Even in a production environment using an auto-darkener, I'm still lifting it up probably as often as the Jackson for the simple reason of needing fresh air.
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