[jaso]

Hello all,

I'm looking for guidance - pros and cons - on the different types of welding table tops I see out there while planning a new table. In general, here are the tops I see:

Solid
(one big piece of steel)
- How thick should it be?
- How do you deal with clamping? Just tack things directly to the table then grind it clean when done?

Solid with holes
- How thick should it be?
- How big should the holes be?
- Where do you get those fancy clamps that utilize the hole structure?

Slatted
(spaced out rectangular tube or slabs of steel - horizontal, not vertical like a plasma table)
- How wide do you make the spaces?
- What dimension to use for the rectangular tube or slabs?

I'm trying to pick a system/platform to build out as I'm ready to start investing in a proper table and clamps.

As far as clamping options, what's the benefits of "F"/sliding arm clamps vs locking "C" clamps (the vice grip style)? While things like Magswitches seem cool I don't see a lot of pro videos making use of them. The "holes" tables seem popular but I don't see many guys using the clamps designed for those systems, either.

Basically I'm just paralyzed by options and looking for experienced guidance.

Thanks,

j

[cj737]

Downside to magnetic is the arc of your welding is disrupted. They’re okay for a quick tack, but avoid using them for real welding.

Many use 1/4” thick steel, slatted, drilled or solid. As long as you have ample and adequate support beneath it, that’s fine.

I use a 3/4” thick piece of steel, drilled with 5/8” holes (standard to fit those types of plunger clamps). I also have a 3/8” thick piece of aluminum table (smaller) for heat control welding (thin stainless and sheet metal projects).

[LtBadd]

Are you getting setup for specific type of fabrication, or just trying to be ready for whatever comes along?

There are A LOT of videos on YT and threads on several weld forums with many examples of the options you listed

As far as clamps go you'll probably end up with more then one kind no matter what table you have

[jaso]

Thank you both for the replies. As far as my setup, I'm just trying to be ready for whatever. The majority of the work I do is with square/rectangular tube and sheets/bar stock.

I've watched dozens of videos on tables. I'm failing to find - or maybe just put together - the pros and cons of the different styles.

Am I overthinking this? Is it all just personal preference?

[Mike Westbrook]

I'll just note that the thicker the table top the less spatter will stick to it due to the heat it takes to fuse with the thicker top I have a dedicated weld table and a dedicated grind and cut table made from a sewer grate the cut table on casters exactly the same height so if needed it can support long projects and I can roll the table outside to cut down on the mess in the shop

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[cj737]

I'll just note that the thicker the table top the less spatter will stick to it due to the heat it takes to fuse with the thicker top

I don’t know that to be true. The spatter is generally hot enough to stick to just about any surface. Sure, it doesn’t “fuse”, but it surely sticks pretty good. Easy remedies are non-stick spray, spatter guard aerosol, or use cast iron surfaces or aluminum for DC welding.

Jaso - if you are setting up for a lot square/rectangle work, the Monster Squares from Fireball Tool are a very nice and convenient addition to your arsenal. I have their aluminum sets and find them to be very handy, despite the large drilled top I have.

[Mike Westbrook]

Try it cj at work our boss got us benches made from 1/8 plate over wooden 2*4's and they look like the surface of the moon and I have a 1/2 inch table at home when it's spattered up a putty knife removes most of it spatter Will stick to anything just a little less on heavy stuff and the fireball square is a great little tool to have

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[dgapilot]

I got a certiflat table. So far so good. I don’t think it was a significant amount more than buying the steel locally, but there was shipping. If you go that route, decide what height you want. I got the standard height, and with the castors, it’s higher than I would have liked.


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[jaso]

Thanks to everyone for the discussion. I definitely have my eye on the Fireball squares. Out of curiosity, are people mostly using the 8" or the 12" variety? What are your feelings on cast iron vs aluminum? I watched the iron vs. aluminum YT video that he put out and it was informative but still left me on the fence. I won't be climbing ladders with mine but my shop is a garage without climate control so I'm not crazy about having to oil the iron ones to keep the rust away.

[cj737]

I have the aluminum ones for weight, corrosion resistance, and price. I use them more when welding steel, so the ally is not an issue for possible weld connection.

[amusick10]

This was my version, 4”x6”x1/4” I-Beam, 2-3/16” spacing, ended up at 9’x52” or so. I did the acme rod for adjustability in height as well as being able to level it.

It’s far from a certiflat table but it’s plenty flat for the type of work I do. I’m able to use the vise grip type c clamps as well as F clamps and actual c clamps and it seems to work petty well so far.





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[LtBadd]

That's a stout table for sure, did you have the I beam on hand or have to buy?

[amusick10]

That's a stout table for sure, did you have the I beam on hand or have to buy?

Bought it from a surplus place for $400 and had my powder coater sandblast it for another $100, worked out well.


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[Wolfgang]

Here is my 5x10 table, top is 3/4" with 5/8" holes, 3" on center.
Just completed it a few weeks ago!
If you want to see more of my table built, feel free to go to:
http://6ldesigns.com/2019/01/
http://6ldesigns.com/2019/02/

[bap_]

Welding web has a 30+ page thread on on some really cool builds and commentary if you plan to DIY. I've brainstormed a lot just looking through all the pages.

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?3 ... re-thread/