Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm practicing pipe welding , and attending some classes at my ua local . But cant make all of them right now due to my stupid work schedule .

I need something preferably used , maybe interested in generator welders just not sure what is capable and what isnt honestly .

Needs

Must run 6010 5p+ 3/32 and 1/8th

And 3/32 and 1/8th 7018s

I know it's a long shot , is there a capable 110v machine out there I'm sure not ?

I can wire a 220v 50 amp circuit for a welder but will cut into my overall budget .

I would prefer to keep it below 500$

What should I be looking for on the used market ? And what should I look for if there is anything on the new market ?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Grab a Lincoln Tombstone. It’s a 240v machine only, but will do what you need. New they’re about $350. Can grab them at a Lowe’s near you. Or Craigslist.

Thanks for the response , the ac version is about 300 new . The ac /dc version is a bit closer to 700 dollars new .

The welder must be a key to run 6010 and keep a stable arc .


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Never say "6010" and "110V welder" in the same sentence, it's blasphemy!

Even if there was a 120V stick welder that could run 6010, you'd be capped at about 90-95A on a 20A breaker, so that puts a major crippling on running 1/8" 7018 in it's optimum range of 115-130A. Even 1/8" 6010 would be a challenge as typically you need a good amount of arc force to set the rod into the bevel to break down the walls without having it stick. In short, it's just not going to be adequate.

If you are good with electricity, there is a way to get a 240V/20A circuit without having to run a new 240V outlet. But there is always huge risk if you don't know what you're doing. Like, you're going to burn your house/apartment building/etc down if you don't know what you're doing kind of risk.

The lincoln manual for the AC/DC tombstone does rate it as being able to run E6010. How well? I don't know.

Oscar wrote:Never say "6010" and "110V welder" in the same sentence, it's blasphemy! [emoji38]

Even if there was a 120V stick welder that could run 6010, you'd be capped at about 90-95A on a 20A breaker, so that puts a major crippling on running 1/8" 7018 in it's optimum range of 115-130A. Even 1/8" 6010 would be a challenge as typically you need a good amount of arc force to set the rod into the bevel to break down the walls without having it stick. In short, it's just not going to be adequate.

If you are good with electricity, there is a way to get a 240V/20A circuit without having to run a new 240V outlet. But there is always huge risk if you don't know what you're doing. Like, you're going to burn your house/apartment building/etc down if you don't know what you're doing kind of risk.

The lincoln manual for the AC/DC tombstone does rate it as being able to run E6010. How well? I don't know.

Yeah I think I'm going to continue to look for one of the tombstone welder that is ac/dc. If a thunderbolt or something pops up I'll try and snag it. Alot of the moderately priced welders I'm running into are Ac only machines .


I literally only need this to work on pipe specific ua code welds . And all of the codes I'm working on the biggest thing I need to run is a 1/8th 6010 . And I can get by with 3/32 7018 since everything needs stringers for cap anyways .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

If this is for practice, just run 6011 rods with an AC box. Rod manipulation and arc and puddle control is what you need to develop. The actual rod won’t make a lot of difference at home.

If your wanting to practice and be successful doing UA code standard pipe welds forget about it with your budget.
A tombstone AC DC welder is not going to cut it. You will never see a tombstone AC DC welder on any UA code job or test centre. You need to be practising on a 350 amp inverter DC welder, preferably powered by 3phase power. That's the type of machine you will be using for the most part while on the job or in the hall testing. A 300+ amp DC engine drive your be a good practice machine also. Again, way out of your budget.
Your setting yourself up for failure if you think your going to learn pipe welding on a AC DC tombstone welder.
Your budget expectations and 120v questions makes me believe your far from ready.

snoeproe wrote:If your wanting to practice and be successful doing UA code standard pipe welds forget about it with your budget.
A tombstone AC DC welder is not going to cut it. You will never see a tombstone AC DC welder on any UA code job or test centre. You need to be practising on a 350 amp inverter DC welder, preferably powered by 3phase power. That's the type of machine you will be using for the most part while on the job or in the hall testing. A 300+ amp DC engine drive your be a good practice machine also. Again, way out of your budget.
Your setting yourself up for failure if you think your going to learn pipe welding on a AC DC tombstone welder.
Your budget expectations and 120v questions makes me believe your far from ready.

Thanks I agree with your statement in alot of ways . No I'm not ready currently . But I understand most of the fundamentals of what needs to be done , in order to create a 100% passing ray weld . I need to work on my technique and need arc time , and need to work on body positioning currently . I can put roots in pipe cap hot pass and cap . But not at a mind sweltering rate and not that great .

Yeah the machines at the hall are 3 phase Miller's and Lincoln's, but I can not always be there burning rods . I'm looking for something to supplement my arc time when I'm at home . Something to just get arc time , on a pipe with . Putting in roots and hot passes , fill passes , and capping.

I'm not looking for something to mimic exactly what I'll be using , just looking for something that is capable of getting the job done .

Once again , thanks for the comment I'll keep it all in mind . I got my mind made up on getting the ua certs and I will get them . Got to many people in my corner and to much heart to give up.

I simply came here just looking for some answers , if there is a machine available to run the size rods I'm looking to use , and anytbing strong enough with arc force adjustments for 6010




Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

vaguy101 wrote: if there is a machine available to run the size rods I'm looking to use , and anytbing strong enough with arc force adjustments for 6010

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

There are, you just need to increase your budget, five-fold. Gotta pay to play.

I can wire a 220v 50 amp circuit for a welder but will cut into my overall budget .

I would prefer to keep it below 500$

That's part of the problem, unless you score a great deal on a used welder, which is unlikely seeing as how a lot of people want top-dollar for their used welders (99% of new cost, lol). I am an HTP customer/garage welder, but I have plenty of experience with their machines, and their stick welder (the Inverarc 200TLP), can run 6010 very very well. On Cellulosic mode, you can dial in up to 500% on the "dig", aka "arc force". It obliterates 6010s. Even on regular mode, you can still dial in 200% arc force. Obviously it has practical limits, and it's a 240V/1-Φ welder, but it has a really really nice arc. Ebay has 1 left at $999, their reg price is $1500. 100% duty cycle is roughly at 115-120A, IIRC. So you can run 1/8" 7018's pretty much almost non-stop until you're heart's desire.

What snoepro says is valid. It's unrealistic, however, to power up a 300A or larger power source from home 240V. I think you are on the right track, you can spend as much time in the UA booth using their gear, you just want to spend extra time at home building up muscle memory and body position. You don't need 300A for that, you just need enough grunt to arc up some 3/32" 6010 and 7018 on 2" - 4" pipe coupons. If you can get around them you can get around bigger pipe easy.
I'm in the wrong part of the world to recommend power sources for you. You really only need a DC power source with enough open circuit voltage (say min 70 volts, 90 volts is better) and you're good to go. You can always try before you buy to make sure the 6010 lights up and stays lit.

Coldman wrote:You really only need a DC power source with enough open circuit voltage (say min 70 volts, 90 volts is better) .

And 100V OCV is icing on the cake.

Looks like a nice light capable power source. Certainly fits the "buy once, cry once" bill and at 999.00 its a good deal too.

Well I found some good deals , on some 60s and 70s model idealarc 250s. I'm going to go check them out . Hopefully may pick one up.

If not the search will go on and maybe the budget will continue.

I Do absolutely love the htp though .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I also found a dialarc for 550 with cart and bottle and full tig rig , guy says he will help me load it . Question is how do I unload the massive sob.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I have also considered the

Everlast 210stl
Or
Everlast 300st

They both have good duty cycles for the types of metal I plan to use them for. And they have a claim to fame on the arc quality and cellulose ability for them .

I did watch a review of one of the power arc 200s. And it did seem to run 1/8th 6010 very well .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk