Welding Tips and Tricks

I had trouble seeing the puddle when welding. I got a lamp and took vitamin A, and things got better. Today I saw some videos about welding helmets, and it made me wonder whether I need to upgrade.

I have a Hobart Hood I got a few years back. It's not Harbor Freight, but it's not high-end. Today in a video, I saw that newer helmets don't turn everything green, and supposedly they let you see a lot more.

Is it worth it to try something like a Lincoln 3350 or a Panoramaxx?

not "newer", BETTER. and Yes. Anything Optrel kicks butt.

I'm seeing some confusing stuff. Some people are saying the latest Lincoln 3350 models with 4C are the best, but then I see other people raving about the Optrel Crystal, which costs more. I'm not all that interested in having every conceivable feature. Visibility is the main thing.

I don't want to spend a lot of money, but if I have to, I will.

I saw some guy recommending a fixed-shade helmet, claiming all auto helmets give an inferior view. I don't think I could deal with a fixed shade, losing my position every time the arc stops.

I haven't used the Lincoln, but Optrel is up there without a doubt. The best thing for visibility are new clean inner & outer clear lenses, and not letting light enter from the back of the helmet. For the latter, the best investment I have done is getting the BSX hooded welding jacket, and adding velcro to my Optrel and the hoodie. It blocks out 99% of all outside light and works awesome for increasing visibility!

I started out with the cheapest. A week later i upgraded to the hobart auto dark. The switching rate was ok but the image is not clear. Then i purchased the viking 3350 and really liked it. I just sold it about 6 months ago and got the new viking 3350 with the external grind button. I also have a skirt i velcro to the top edge for welding outside. I don't think a fixed shade is better but no risk of arc flash. The viking 4 sensors works well and if i am real light on amperage i can up the sensitivity and lighten the shade for better viewing.
I will say the new viking headgear is not as good as the old style. It pinches my hair.
Cheers


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Since automatic helmets block radiation whether or not they darken, I am not worried about getting flashed. I just want to see well.

The Lincoln helmet seems to get excellent reviews for clarity. Maybe I should just grab one.

I have the optrel e684 and have owned the lincoln 3350, both are very good and there isn't much of a discernible difference in the view, IMO

Hi Chips, I have all kind of helmets and definitely found that the auto dark are much better. I do have a 3350 and a cheaper knock off. Can't notice a huge difference in those 2, BUT a huge difference in fixed shade and the newer glass. The sneaky entrance of back light does get in the way from time to time. I will have to try oscars velcro and staples and see how that works. Don't get excited oscar, just pickin.

Chips O'Toole wrote:Since automatic helmets block radiation whether or not they darken, I am not worried about getting flashed. I just want to see well.

The Lincoln helmet seems to get excellent reviews for clarity. Maybe I should just grab one.

When you get flashed and you feel like you have sand in your eyes at night it's not a nice feeling. Im no eye doctor but i don't think it's good.

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Absolutely right Sandy. I am having a difficult time with my old eyes getting recouped after a flash. Since my partner and I were there to invent dirt, I do find it takes a lot longer to get over eye strain and even walking outdoors on a rare sunny day.

I went from a Lincon 2450 to a 3350 about 2 months ago. My 2450 was about 8 years old and I think one of the sensors was going bad. There is a difference even between these two models. It wasn’t life changing enough to make the change until the old one started acting up. But the difference was worth the higher cost of the upgrade.

BillE.Dee wrote:Hi Chips, I have all kind of helmets and definitely found that the auto dark are much better. I do have a 3350 and a cheaper knock off. Can't notice a huge difference in those 2, BUT a huge difference in fixed shade and the newer glass. The sneaky entrance of back light does get in the way from time to time. I will have to try oscars velcro and staples and see how that works. Don't get excited oscar, just pickin.

It works awesome with this welding jacket. The velcro on the hoodie had a bit of adhesive on the back (more like "stickiness") as it came from Home Depot, but that by itself will let go in a couple days. After that happened, I used some basic adhesive (it was either E6000 or gorilla adhesive) to lay a small bead on each velcro section before I layed them down and stapled them to the hoodie. That really worked well! The velcro on the helmet has not let go because the adhesive it had sticks well to plastic since it is a smooth clean surface.

I appreciate the help. I'm going to try a Lincoln 3350. Hope it's as good as they say it is.

Here is the sun shield i purchased
It comes with the velcro and sticky stuff.
Just keep in mind the older 3350 does not come with the grind button. If you are buying new and want the external button just make sure


https://www.weldclass.com.au/blog/4-how ... ing-helmet


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I've got a Miller DE Clearlight. Its not bad. Gotta try out my buddies 4c to see what the rave is all about.

My advice: Buy a hood from a reputable brand. Optrel, Miller, Lincoln, Esab, etc. Safety should be a high priority for all of us and the old saying goes: we only get one set of eyes.

bap_ wrote:I've got a Miller DE Clearlight. Its not bad. Gotta try out my buddies 4c to see what the rave is all about.

My advice: Buy a hood from a reputable brand. Optrel, Miller, Lincoln, Esab, etc. Safety should be a high priority for all of us and the old saying goes: we only get one set of eyes.

Amen

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Oscar wrote:I haven't used the Lincoln, but Optrel is up there without a doubt. The best thing for visibility are new clean inner & outer clear lenses, and not letting light enter from the back of the helmet. For the latter, the best investment I have done is getting the BSX hooded welding jacket, and adding velcro to my Optrel and the hoodie. It blocks out 99% of all outside light and works awesome for increasing visibility!

I recently moved some lights in my shop, now ambient lighting from behind me is messing up my vision. I like the idea of the hood velcroed to the helmet. Some of the BSX welding jackets have a removable hood. But looks like they are only only fire-resistant, not fire-proof. Any problems with sparks, etc, (yeah, I know Tig shouldn't have sparks) burning the hood? I don't really care to wear a jacket, especially in warm weather. Do you wear the jacket (Hot in Texas) or did you remove and use the hood only?

Heck if you want to see better a 500 watt halogen work light placed correctly nearby always was my go to. Otherwise outside in bright daylight .


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drizler1 wrote:Heck if you want to see better a 500 watt halogen work light placed correctly nearby always was my go to. Otherwise outside in bright daylight .


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Yeah, just trying to avoid the suntan/heat lamp effect from a 500 watt halogen. I'll come out looking like a McDonalds french fry. Spotlight type lighting leaves too many shaded areas, I'm trying to not have to move parts all the time to get good light. Maybe I'll have to switch lighting to where it was for now.

ljdm1956 wrote:

drizler1 wrote:Heck if you want to see better a 500 watt halogen work light placed correctly nearby always was my go to. Otherwise outside in bright daylight .


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Yeah, just trying to avoid the suntan/heat lamp effect from a 500 watt halogen. I'll come out looking like a McDonalds french fry. Spotlight type lighting leaves too many shaded areas, I'm trying to not have to move parts all the time to get good light. Maybe I'll have to switch lighting to where it was for now.

Good god man you live in the arctic circle ( almost). You should be loving the heat 8 months of the year. The light too. It’s dark and cloudy, rainy too most of the year. Heck I do all my work with the garage door open freezing my buns off just do I can see

drizler1 wrote:

ljdm1956 wrote:

drizler1 wrote:Heck if you want to see better a 500 watt halogen work light placed correctly nearby always was my go to. Otherwise outside in bright daylight .


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Yeah, just trying to avoid the suntan/heat lamp effect from a 500 watt halogen. I'll come out looking like a McDonalds french fry. Spotlight type lighting leaves too many shaded areas, I'm trying to not have to move parts all the time to get good light. Maybe I'll have to switch lighting to where it was for now.

Good god man you live in the arctic circle ( almost). You should be loving the heat 8 months of the year. The light too. It’s dark and cloudy, rainy too most of the year. Heck I do all my work with the garage door open freezing my buns off just do I can see

I can deal with cold(when I have To), but my main concern is I need to actually see what I'm doing, LOL

ljdm1956 wrote:I recently moved some lights in my shop, now ambient lighting from behind me is messing up my vision. I like the idea of the hood velcroed to the helmet. Some of the BSX welding jackets have a removable hood. But looks like they are only only fire-resistant, not fire-proof. Any problems with sparks, etc, (yeah, I know Tig shouldn't have sparks) burning the hood? I don't really care to wear a jacket, especially in warm weather. Do you wear the jacket (Hot in Texas) or did you remove and use the hood only?

I wear full protective gear all the time. Even in the hot Texas summer.

Hanes gray basic Tee + Dickies blue/black work shirt +
full welding jacket + BSX beanie + 3M 7075 respirator with 2297 filters + Uvex S2500/OTG 3001 safety glass over my prescription glasses + denim jeans + steel toe boots. I'm not like those pics you see where someone just welded something and their feet come out in the pics and they're wearing sandals, LOL.

No problems with sparks so far. The other day I was using E6010's with plenty of sparks flying everywhere, and no issues thus far.

ljdm1956 wrote:

drizler1 wrote:Heck if you want to see better a 500 watt halogen work light placed correctly nearby always was my go to. Otherwise outside in bright daylight .


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Yeah, just trying to avoid the suntan/heat lamp effect from a 500 watt halogen. I'll come out looking like a McDonalds french fry. Spotlight type lighting leaves too many shaded areas, I'm trying to not have to move parts all the time to get good light. Maybe I'll have to switch lighting to where it was for now.

2 packs of 50W LED lights are $40 on Amazon.

Oscar wrote:

ljdm1956 wrote:I recently moved some lights in my shop, now ambient lighting from behind me is messing up my vision. I like the idea of the hood velcroed to the helmet. Some of the BSX welding jackets have a removable hood. But looks like they are only only fire-resistant, not fire-proof. Any problems with sparks, etc, (yeah, I know Tig shouldn't have sparks) burning the hood? I don't really care to wear a jacket, especially in warm weather. Do you wear the jacket (Hot in Texas) or did you remove and use the hood only?

I wear full protective gear all the time. Even in the hot Texas summer.

Hanes gray basic Tee + Dickies blue/black work shirt +
full welding jacket + BSX beanie + 3M 7075 respirator with 2297 filters + Uvex S2500/OTG 3001 safety glass over my prescription glasses + denim jeans + steel toe boots. I'm not like those pics you see where someone just welded something and their feet come out in the pics and they're wearing sandals, LOL.

No problems with sparks so far. The other day I was using E6010's with plenty of sparks flying everywhere, and no issues thus far.

Which welding jacket - removable hood - do you use? Or did I read it wrong and hood isn't removable?

Oscar wrote:

ljdm1956 wrote:

drizler1 wrote:Heck if you want to see better a 500 watt halogen work light placed correctly nearby always was my go to. Otherwise outside in bright daylight .


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Yeah, just trying to avoid the suntan/heat lamp effect from a 500 watt halogen. I'll come out looking like a McDonalds french fry. Spotlight type lighting leaves too many shaded areas, I'm trying to not have to move parts all the time to get good light. Maybe I'll have to switch lighting to where it was for now.

2 packs of 50W LED lights are $40 on Amazon.

I have two similar lights - use 50W each, output 500W equivalent each. I'll buy a couple of tripods and see how they work. Right now they are just hanging up to provide general lighting. I have a bunch of LED 4' tubes, just not giving enough light for tired old eyes, I guess.